I need advice as to which mobo to purchase along with compatible memory
Don't confuse terms. While SSDs (and hard drives) are a type of memory, when people talk about motherboards and "compatible memory", that refers to compatible "RAM" (random access memory) or "system memory". And to that, you can see what RAM is compatible with that specific motherboard by referring the motherboard's QVL (qualified vendors list). Almost all motherboard makers maintain a list of compatible RAM and CPUs for each of their boards on each board's webpage. So when you decide on a board, check the QVLs for compatible CPUs and RAM. While you need to buy a listed CPU, understand there are just too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test and list them all. So you don't have to buy listed RAM but you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM to ensure compatibility.
When it comes to SSDs (and hard drives), that is "storage" memory. I say, if budget allows, go all SSD. Yes, SSDs cost more per gigabyte of storage, but when you factor in vastly improved performance, lower power consumption, and less heat production, then spread the costs (and savings) over the years of service, the extra costs of SSDs initial costs become much easier to swallow.
May be looking for a curve monitor
It should be noted that all the marketing hype over curved monitors did not pan out. First and foremost, understand there is absolutely nothing to suggest the display "quality" or "performance" of a curved screen monitor is better than a traditional flat screen. Nothing whatsoever! Period!
So what's so great about curved monitors? Well, if you are sitting at the
exact correct focal length (distance) from the monitor and your are sitting in the
exact center of the monitor, then you are sitting at the ideal and equal distance from the center and both sides of the monitor. That is, your head is properly "triangulated" with the full width of the screen so, "in theory" your head is at the ideal distance and "viewing angle" for the best "perception" of the displayed image. Sounds great, and it is, (assuming it is a quality monitor to begin with).
But what happens if you move your chair just 6 inches forwards or back? Now the curved sides are no longer the proper distance for proper "triangulation" for an ideal image display. What happens if you move your head left or right just 3 or 4 inches? Now the "viewing angle" of one side of the monitor will be off one way and at the same time, the viewing angle will be off the other way for the other side of the screen, and also at the same time, even the center of the screen will be off the ideal viewing angle.
In other words, there is only one ideal user sitting position with curved monitors and that is at some precise distance from the exact center of the monitor. That's fine, I guess, if your head is clamped in a head brace.
What happens if someone else is watching a video with you, or you are trying to show someone else something on your monitor? Their viewing angle may be so far off, the display becomes very faded for them, or you have to move off center then neither of you have an ideal position.
For big screen TVs, there is only one spot in the living room for best viewing. I guess that's fine if you are a single hermit.
Flat screen technologies have become so refined that many provide excellent viewing even at very wide (off-center) viewing angles. And humans are used to a flat screen such that polls and surveys since curved screen monitor came out reveal that the "game play" and view experience is just as enjoyable and entertaining with flat screens - even more so when not sitting at that precise position needed with curved screens. So it turns out, curved screen monitors are more a fad. And like most fads, they are cool
at first, but once the newness and novelty wear off, they become ho-hum, or even an inconvenience - an expensive one at that!
IMO, use the extra money a curved monitor would have cost you and invest that in a better flat screen, more RAM, faster graphics card, bigger SSD, flowers for the better half, or a big juicy steak dinner at a fancy restaurant.
And to that, I recommend 16GB of RAM (2 x 8GB). If you have money to burn, then 32GB (2 x 16GB or 4 x 8GB). But no more. And understand 16GB is generally considered the "sweetspot". That is, less than 16GB and performance loss will be noticeable with some demanding tasks. But more than 16GB typically yields little, if any
noticeable performance gains (except on synthetic benchmark tests).
As far as how to connect your M2 SSD, I say don't worry about that now. Wait until you select your motherboard and see what connectivity options it provides. BTW, if you have never used a SSD based computer before, understand even the slowest SSD will run circles around the fastest hard drives. While M2/PCIe SSDs are faster than standard SATA SSDs, SATA SSDs are still incredibly fast. And remember, once the file is loaded into RAM, the drive steps out of the picture so at that point, drive performance becomes less of a factor in your gaming or other tasks. Instead, your RAM, CPU and graphics solution are what matters.
Two more points. Budget for a top quality power supply (PSU). I like to say you don't buy a new Porsche then fill it up with watered down, dirty fuel at the corner Tobacco and Bait Shop. Well, you might but a car engine can miss a beat with dirty fuel and keep running. High speed digital electronics can quickly come to a screeching halt, corrupting your data in the process. Do not choose your new PSU (if getting one) until you have selected your other components and determine what your power requirements will be. Then I recommend at least an 80 PLUS certified "Bronze" supply, "Gold" would be better. I like EVGA and Seasonic PSUs.
Last, understand in terms of software licensing, a new motherboard constitutes a new computer. And new computers typically require new software licenses, notably, operating system licenses. The vast majority of Windows licenses currently in use are "OEM/System Builder" licenses inextricably tied to the "O"riginal "E"quipment, or upgrade licenses tied to those OEM/System Builder licenses. As such, they are
NOT "legally" transferable to new computers under
any circumstances.
So unless you purchased
separately a "full retail" Windows license for your current computer, you cannot "legally" transfer that license to your new computer. You must go with a free version of Linux, or buy a new Windows license - so be sure to budget for that too.
