Random system restart

[Gin]

Random system restart (SOLVED)

Hello, I have to say thank you I used to use this forum and in the past I got excellent help with overclocking. I know there is no reason for anyone to help as this is not overclocking anymore but dealing with a random system restart. The hardware is quite old and it's the first time it started failing in many years.

Systen spec:

AMD fx-8350 set it to 4.000mhz and 1.356 vcore so it should be running on default spec just for troubleshooting.
MOBO: Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0
PSU: Zalman 750-XG
VGA: msi gtx 1050
RAMS: 1600 mhz kingston and gskill 4x2 4x2 dual channel
FANS: 1 case and cpu cooler.

What I have tested so far:

Switched VGA problem not gone.
Run different stressing tools but restart is not happening more often under load, it is just random; it may happen on idle.
Used a multimeter and checked 24pin voltages, voltages are on spec. System has no issues booting of whatsoever, games runs like they always did and there is no performance degradation or fps loss.
The only thing I found that I can't remember if it was always that value, is the 3.3v rail, which is shown in monitoring tools stuck at 3.147 and I read psu manual and it said it was 3.147 to 3.31 under load. So when using multimeter 3.3v pins were actually 3.3 but my concern is why they are not bumping up under load, may it be the issue generating random system reboot? I'm going to check if there is like old post of mine in this forum maybe there is a screen of my overclocking stats and I could check if in the past it was 3.3v or not.
Hardisk is okay, I tried my cousin's one and issue not gone.
Visual check for blown capacitor.
Any help or advice for me to try would be much appreciate, as always thank you and sorry for my bad english.

 

[trents]

My first guess would be something related to your RAM. First, you have mixed RAM. Different brands and probably with different timings suggested from the factory. That is never a good practice. Second, the issue with the 3.3v rail. Those RAM modules may not be getting the juice they used to get.

I would suggest removing either the Kingston or the GSkill and set the RAM timings and voltatges using the XMP setting. I would also add that Kingston RAM is famous for not playing well with that generation of AMD.

You might also try bumping up the voltage a little in bios for the RAM and the IMC. That system may be getting a little tired by now and need a little voltage kick in the pants.

 

[Gin]

My first guess would be something related to your RAM. First, you have mixed RAM. Different brands and probably with different timings suggested from the factory. That is never a good practice. Second, the issue with the 3.3v rail. Those RAM modules may not be getting the juice they used to get.

I would suggest removing either the Kingston or the GSkill and set the RAM timings and voltatges using the XMP setting. I would also add that Kingston RAM is famous for not playing well with that generation of AMD.

You might also try bumping up the voltage a little in bios for the RAM and the IMC. That system may be getting a little tired by now and need a little voltage kick in the pants.

Thank you for your help. I have to add that the RAMS were never overclocked tho, I have always used xmp profile for both g.skill and the Kingston ones. However, you may have been right about rams, I have unplug all rams but one g.skill and after 2 days testing the system did not reboot at all. Could play games, write stuff, check internet worldfalling news etc. So today I just plugged another g.skill ram because 4GB ram for Windows 10 was awful, so I'll report later if problem stays out of sight, so far so good; I will let it for 2 days and if it's ok I'll go adding the Kingstone one at a time. Thank you very much for your help.

 

[Gin]

After testing it seems system will work fine with any ram but only if one stick at a time is used. Can you throw light on it? Could be the mobo dying then?

 

[trents]

Sounds like a motherboard going bad. Bad soldered traces or sockets probably somewhere between the CPU socket and the RAM slots. You could try baking the board.

 

[Gin]

After many stupid decisions like buying the last AM3+ mobo left in my city "no joke, it was only one left and I bought it" it ended not being the mobo faulty, nor the rams, nor the cpu or motherboard. After installing new motherboard problem was still there, now I'm using my brother's psu and system is stable. However I tought my psu was fine because I tested the 24 pin voltages using a multimeter and all voltages were on spec. Sadly, should have considered these voltages are fake since the system is not under load, "I tested these pins with only psu running with clip trick". I'm about to ditch my psu and get a new one, but just on matter should I try my brother's psu cord to check if it could be a cord issue? my cousin psu is a EVGA550W should this cord be fine to test on my "dead" psu? wich is in description Zalman psu. Thank you all in advance!

EDIT1:

Now that I have this motherboard installed, how does it compared to my previous one? is it better the same or worse for O.C my fx-8350 lol

EDIT2:

Found this http://cxzoid.blogspot.com/2015/06/asrock-970m-pro3-review.html proved my new motherboard is garbage lol

 

[RollingThunder]

Did you check your 12V with a DMM an empty molex plug before you do anything more radical?

 

[Gin]

Did you check your 12V with a DMM an empty molex plug before you do anything more radical?

I did not. The only thing I did to test PSU was to use a metal clip and check one by one voltage on the 24pins using a multimeter. I plugged my brother's psu and it worked just fine, used my PSU and computer did not even boot. I switched cables "power supply main cable" and it did not help. I will just buy new psu, what model and brand would you suggest. All I want is that it last as much as it can. A friend told me hes psu have lasted since phenom cpu series rolled out, mine was just bought when fx series were released so it died quite fast, but at least it lasted some years. Thank you for your reply.

 

[trents]

Your troubleshooting leaves no doubt in my mind that the PSU is bad. PSU voltages being within spec under no load does not necessarily prove that the PSU is good. On the other hand, if the voltages are out of spec in a no load situation it would definitely indicate the unit was bad.

 

[Zerileous]

Do you have a budget for the PSU? Many here recommend EVGA SuperNova G2/G3. I've always had a thing for Seasonic, and you can't go wrong with the Focus Plus or their Prime Ultra series. In terms of lasting a long time, the G3 and Focus Plus have 10 year warranties, while the Prime Ultra carries a 12 year warranty. The corsair RMx is also a fine PSU with a 10 year warranty, if that is more easily available to you.

These high quality current PSUs can sustain their rated wattage, almost entirely from the 12v rail at that. You really don't need to buy a high wattage rating, and it is wiser to buy a higher quality lower wattage PSU, rather than up the wattage to make up for any shortcomings. Do keep in mind any upgrades upcoming, but unless you want to run a HEDT processor or top of the line water cooled GPU, 750W is probably overkill. According to this calculator https://outervision.com/b/EqpCcG 500W will be plenty for the system in your signature, but you could easily go 650W to accommodate future upgrades if desired, as the price difference is minimal.

 

[Gin]

Do you have a budget for the PSU? Many here recommend EVGA SuperNova G2/G3. I've always had a thing for Seasonic, and you can't go wrong with the Focus Plus or their Prime Ultra series. In terms of lasting a long time, the G3 and Focus Plus have 10 year warranties, while the Prime Ultra carries a 12 year warranty. The corsair RMx is also a fine PSU with a 10 year warranty, if that is more easily available to you.

These high quality current PSUs can sustain their rated wattage, almost entirely from the 12v rail at that. You really don't need to buy a high wattage rating, and it is wiser to buy a higher quality lower wattage PSU, rather than up the wattage to make up for any shortcomings. Do keep in mind any upgrades upcoming, but unless you want to run a HEDT processor or top of the line water cooled GPU, 750W is probably overkill. According to this calculator https://outervision.com/b/EqpCcG 500W will be plenty for the system in your signature, but you could easily go 650W to accommodate future upgrades if desired, as the price difference is minimal.

Chile, My country is garbage atm. Clown gov, im currently unemployed and poor as ****. Dollar has gone bananas high value making our currency looks like potato. And with the coronavirus thing everything went south. I was chcecking your model suggestion and they look amazing, but I couldn't find any of those available in My country. Some are out of stock or labbed as available soon. Plus My budget is a tragicómico joke. 1 Dollar rounded UP equals one thousend pesos chilenos currency and I have 70.000 CLP or 70 USD. These are My options could you pick the best out of there:
https://www.solotodo.com/power_supp...58&has_active_pfc=1&ordering=offer_price_usd&

EDIT: I found this one and it's available in a city near me for 78 dollars: https://www.bip.cl/fuente-de-poder-700-br-80-bronze-700w-power-supply-pn-100-br-0700-k1_26915

I believe it could be the best option since my budget is limited. Minimum wage here is 301.000 CLP -health care discount = 288.000 CLP = 342 USD. So I can't go higher on the price, I think I can't afford paying more than 80 USD so the PSU above is 78 USD I can get it, thank you all for your help.

 

[trents]

Gin, your link to the PSU 78mi away doesn't work for me. What is the make and model of the PSU?

I understand Chile is going through an incredible drought period and cougars are coming down out of the hills into the streets of Santiago looking for food. Three were trapped recently in the city.

 

[Gin]

Gin, your link to the PSU 78mi away doesn't work for me. What is the make and model of the PSU?

I understand Chile is going through an incredible drought period and cougars are coming down out of the hills into the streets of Santiago looking for food. Three were trapped recently in the city.

Ikr, crazy stuff. No idea why the link is not working for you buy here is the description:

DESCRIPCION
EVGA 700 BR, 80+ BRONZE, Fuente de Poder 700W (100-BR-0700-K1).
Especificaciones
LARGO DE CABLE
ATX Cable 1x 550mm

EPS Cable 1x 600mm

PCIE Cable 2x 550mm, 670mm

SATA Cable 3x 450mm, 570mm, 690mm

Cable Periférico de Cuatro-Pin 1x 450mm, 570mm, 690mm + 810mm (Floppy)

Adaptador Flexible 1x

AC Power 1x 1200mm (m)

Tipo de Cable Modular No

CANTIDAD DE CONECTORES
24 Pin ATX 1x

EPS (CPU) 1x 8pin (4+4)

PCIE 4x 8pin (6+2)

SATA 9x

Periférico de Cuatro-Pin 3x

Floppy 1x

ESPECIFICACIONES DE POTENCIA
AC Entrada 100 - 240 VAC, 10/5A, 50 - 60 Hz

Potencia de Salida 700W @ +30C

DETALLES ADICIONALES
Temperatura de Operación 0° to 30° C

Condensadores Japoneses No

Modo ECO No

MTBF 100,000 Hours

Peso Neto 4 lbs

Tamaño 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 140mm (L)

Aprobaciones TUV, CB, CE, FCC, RCM, cTUVus, WEEE, RoHS, Compliance with ErP Lot 6 2013 Requirement

Tamaño de Ventilador/Rodamiento 120mm Long Sleeve Bearing

I hope it helps.

 

[Zerileous]

Given your situation this should be adequate as long as you're not overclocking (the poor ripple suppression will cause problems overclocking) https://www.solotodo.com/products/22103-evga-600w-100-w1-0600-k1-600-w. Here is a review from one of the toughest / most skilled PSU reviewers out there http://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2014/06/23/evga-500w-w1-power-supply/6/

That said it's a 6 year old design and probably won't last you for 10 years, but you never know.

I would not get the one you linked, 700W is excessive. As far as I can tell the benefit of going with a BR or BQ unit over the regular 80+ unit is pretty minimal. I wouldn't pay more money for a lower capacity BR or BQ unit.

I did find this unit https://www.solotodo.com/products/45747-seasonic-focus-650-gold-ssr-650fm-650-w, however it is over budget. That said it really will probably last you 10 years and save you money in the long run (not because of efficiency but because of not buying more power supplies).

 

[Zerileous]

Yeah that amperage on the 12v rail is basically reflective of the different wattage. It is better in the sense that it can provide more electricity but it is not necessary for your system. More important is the consistency of the 12v rail and ripple suppression.

 

[trents]

If the PSU you describe in post #13 is all that is available to you, go for it. It should work fine for basic computing. Doesn't look like you are in a position to get fine tune this purchase.

 

[Gin]

Hi again, IDK why my latest replies were deleted I think because I was using my phone to reply. It doesn't matter, I went for your advice and bought the EVGA-600W you recommended, I did as much research as I could and I liked that this psu indicates operative temperature 0-40ºC and my house easily hits 30 to 33ºC on spring so all the other psu I posted had operative temperature 25 to 30ºC so that's something I didn't like. I hope it will perform just good you know, I'm not expecting it to be next gen psu performance but as far as it keeps my system stable is all I ask. Thank you for your time and help, it was and it is very appreciated. It should be arriving next week so I'll add info how things ended. Thank you all who helped and stay safe!

 

[trents]

Good choice.

 

[Gin]

Good choice.

Well, the psu arrived and after booting up Windows I found that new motherboard bios sucks, but rams were on XMP profiles and system ran just fine. However, after I did a manual restart from Windows computer wil send no signal to monitor and will stay there until I shutdown and power on again. I was like ¿Really?, new motherboard, new psu and now this bs? lol. So I keep doing some test ran prime95 did check voltages, did check mems monitor and values everything on track. System rocksolid stable on Windows and games but after all that testing I restarted again to see if issue would be gone, well it wasn't. No signal to monitor and computer will stay ON until I shutdown and power on again. I got bored so I did format Windows and did clean install from USB with latest ISO and updated it to latest version after install. Installed lates graphics card drivers and disabled hybrid boot. Now issue seems to be gone, at least for now. I ran another 20 min prime95 and with default values were as follow:

Cpu clock: 4,0ghz
Cpu Vcore: 1.296v
Cpu temp: 55°C
Core temp: 41°C

Any room for small little O.C or should I forget about this chance since this new mobo is plastic scrap? I'm almost temted to just rebuild pc using my old EVO R2.0 it has some dust but I could grabb some compressed clean air can IDK. But that mobo gave me many years of stable 4,5 common o.c. Thank you in advance, and the new PSU is budget quality so I'm good with it, I did not regret a thinig; compact design was very handy for my case.

 

[trents]

The Mobo in your signature was a very capable motherboard in it's era.

Conventional wisdom was that a 55 to60c core temp as about the limit on that generation of AMD processors to be stable when overclocked. So, I think you may have some more overclock room there as far as temps go but you would need to add some core voltage to support a higher clock. 1.296 is actually very modest. People used to run up to 1.4 volts on that generation of AMD CPUs if I recall and, as you said, an overclock of 4.5 ghz was usually easily attainable. But your high ambient temps are hurting you as well.