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Rbx in reverse?

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Ogerx

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Location
the ogre cave, PA
Anyone tried this yet?
uber.jpg

think i'm about to.. since I'm bored yet again and my life consists of either sleep, messing with computer, or playing planetside(and I hate planetside..) my options are kinda limited.
also have plans to try blocking the center barb altogether..
 
Basicly itll cool pretty decently, but youll loose a lot because the jet has a lot to do with the cooling.

Jon
 
Right, like jon said. Might as well remove the jet if you're going to do that. Actually, better remove it if you want to run it backwards.


J.
 
I've actually had better luck with no jet over the stock jet.. 1c lower idle/load without it in. the #5 jet does do a little better.. another 1c lower temps but it also cuts my water flow going back into the res in half.. this could all be because i only have a danner mag2 pump tho.
anyway, testing load temps with no jet atm then draining and switching tubes..
 
so far.. p4 2.4b@2700 1.5v
Idle: 39.50c
Load: 42.50c max temp with prime95
26.6c water temp
and yes, my temps are supposedly "high" for a rbx but i blame the weak pump.. switching/reversing tubes fun time now...
 
Danner mag2 = 250gph.. room temp is 24c going by the two compunurse probes I have + i run with the case side off..

anyway, the fruits of my wasted time:
bleargh.JPG

Idle: 41c
Load:44c
water temp: 26.7c
:cry:
Oh well.. time to rip it back apart and find something to plug the center barb with... yeah, I'm still that bored.
 
whee think i already found what i'll use..
whee.JPG

red foamy-thing and one of the caps that came with my heatercore.. anyway off to do that
 
You should try making your own custom plate thingy.

Here's an idea.

With a drill, using the drill bit that is used for making a dent at the top of a hole to allow a screw head to be screwed in plush inline with the surface you've drilled (can't explain it any better);

Drill a bunch of holes into something cut to the size of one of those plate things (maybe a bit of wood) and thus create a cascade of jets (sound familiar?).

By using the drill bit specified, you'd create conical holes rather than just straight holes that, as far as I can tell, the #5 RBX plate is like.


If that rbx plate already has conical holes, then ignore this post. :)
 
RBX and blocks like that such as WW rely on cool water hitting directly over the center of the waterblock where the die lies... so I highly doubt that running other way would be beneficial...
 
I think I just read something about removing a flow restrictor from the mag 2. Have you done that?
 
how about using it in reverse, and a pump for each inlet (2xpumps)?
sounds like a lotta turbalance to me, even though its not hitting the die area dead on, i'd expect a great amount of pressure in that area..
 
k this one took forever cause of course i had to get another idea and try making the foam into a square so it would force the water through the fins only..
dumb.JPG

nothing worth noting there cept 43.5idle and almost 0 waterflow..

and then back to the reg. idea..
funfun.JPG

40.5c idle.. 43.5c load.. 26.7c water.. more of the same. and i didn't even get to use the blue cap:mad: I think the moral of this waste of time/test would be "BUY A BIGGER PUMP ALREADY YOU CHEAP B@ST@RD!!1"(yeah i'm talking to myself) now to put it back together as normal yay!
the recent post that talks of being able to mod a mag2 into a mag3 does sound interesting though.. hmmm
 
Korndog said:
how about using it in reverse, and a pump for each inlet (2xpumps)?
sounds like a lotta turbalance to me, even though its not hitting the die area dead on, i'd expect a great amount of pressure in that area..

You would get better result by putting those two pumps in series and have a greater head pressure. More cool water hitting the die. But then again pump heat comes into play...
 
you know what, I wouldnt consider it a waiste of time, Its kinda fun for some, a learning experience for others, and for it to be beneficial to me, whats the temps stock?

-edit-I beleve your pump is fine, its not going to make much of a difference. maybe 1-2 degrees.

Jon
 
Last edited:
Well, I'm running a 1048, which is 600l/h yours is around 950l/h.
I'm getting fair temp, 4c-5c above ambient.

Suma.
 
but what about a evo3(i believe, it has 3 valves looks like a whitewater with blue metal), i will have it running 2 in from the outside and 1 out. but seems people here are saying to do it the reverse... will this make that much of a diff in temps? im wondering since i alreadyhave the length cut and y connector about a foot away from the cpu.
 
<sorta off topic>
How would using any of the 3 barb blocks as a manifold work out?
Going in the center barb, then using each outlet in parallel with a NB block, and GPU block, then bring them together for a return?
 
i was thinking about that, but the water flow will basicly be cut in half until its Y-ed together again, but i guess nb/gpu blocks don't really matter
 
Ogerx, nice try. Now we all know to run the RBX the "right" way around. You can say you are the pioneer of the backwards RBX block. Lol.

Camel, I don't think that would work too well because I am guessing the flowrate out of each exit barb is lower than what it would be if there was only a single exit barb. So you would have half (maybe not half, but probably decreased) flowrate to the NB and GPU block than if you used the Y-connector to join the tubes together and run the blocks in a series. Plus if one of the NB or GPU blocks had less resistance than the other then more water would tend to flow to that block and not so much to the other.
 
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