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Room 26*C CPU 52*C Idle, OC'd

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Rottys-R-Us

Jester
Joined
Feb 12, 2001
Location
So Cal.USA.
As I am on it right now. The room is 26C and cpu is52C. 1.33-266 Birdy oc'd to 1.54, FSB 150, C/V 1.85. On my MSI K7 Master mobo.

I run SETI 24/7 and on that load it is up to 54.5 from CompuNurse, and I get the same from MBM.

C/N's probe is trimed back so it touch's the core directly.

I have a SK6 hsf on it, lapped with AS-2, nice thin layer.

I had even put my WBK-38 on and the temp went up even more so it looks like the probe's are right.

So what do you think of those temp's ? :)

TIA.

Dave.
 
W

William

Guest
their high, i don't know why, but they should be somewhat lower than that. But on the otherhand, they are far from being dangerous.
 

Ferg

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
No they are not that high. 54 degrees for a system overclocked to that level is pretty normal. The only way to get much better results than that is to go for water cooling. If you added some extra case cooling you might get it down a few degrees but nothing major.
 

[email protected]€$†®Ö™

Official Weight Watcher Staff
Joined
Apr 19, 2001
That idle temp is crazy in my book. I always try and stay at 50c or less under full load. I do have a tip to help your idle temp drop though. I will give you a link that will help drop that idle CPU temp down maybe if all goes well 10 degrees fahrenheit if not more.. I believe there is no difference between the KT7-E and A so this tweak so apply to you as well.


Read the whole thing but the register mod "52" to :"EB" is what you should pay close attention to and the programs WPCREDIT and WPCRSET.. Good Luck and Happy Crunching...

Maestro
 

Hoot

Inactive Moderator
Joined
Feb 13, 2001
Location
Twin Cities
Ferg (Jul 11, 2001 09:30 p.m.):
No they are not that high. 54 degrees for a system overclocked to that level is pretty normal. The only way to get much better results than that is to go for water cooling. If you added some extra case cooling you might get it down a few degrees but nothing major.

Not necessarily. I am running my 1.0G/266 at 1524 Mhz at 2.05V. That is over 100W and it runs Prime95 Torture at 42.9C using the Swiftech MC-462A and Cohesive Air cooling (see my article). One blower provides cooling for the CPU and provides throughtcase airflow strong enough to blow out a candle 2 feet from the air exit port, when set ot high.

Lionfish, I'd be having a look at your case ventilation if I were you. What does your setup run at with the case cover off?

Hoot

Lionfish is running at 1.54G at 1.85V. That is 88W. If the air going into the SK-6 is 26C and it is running at 52C, that means the SK-6 is only performing at .29c/w
 
OP
Rottys-R-Us

Rottys-R-Us

Jester
Joined
Feb 12, 2001
Location
So Cal.USA.
Hoot (Jul 11, 2001 09:42 p.m.):

Lionfish, I'd be having a look at your case ventilation if I were you. What does your setup run at with the case cover off?

Hoot

Lionfish is running at 1.54G at 1.85V. That is 88W. If the air going into the SK-6 is 26C and it is running at 52C, that means the SK-6 is only performing at .29c/w

Duh I forgot to say I have the case open bothsides with a fan blowing in to it,blowing the hot air out.

I know Hoot, I can't figure it out for the life of me :-(

BTW the Duron 800 @ 1.0 is 45C same time. Right next to it. Lapped and AS-2 also.

Dave.
 

Ferg

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
Well Hoot I dont think he is gonna do anything like you did. I read the article, very nice rig may I say. You are the envy of aircoolers. To do what you are doing it would cost him well over $100. For bragging rights thats great but most people would rather just go to water cooling. Water cooling does get bragging rights too i believe.
 

Hoot

Inactive Moderator
Joined
Feb 13, 2001
Location
Twin Cities
...not to mention, it's quieter. ;D

I have a 156W peltier sitting here. One day, I will go to water cooling so I can fully utilize it. Even the Hoot Chute can't deal with the excesses in heat that a peltier puts out.

The reason I have not pursued water cooling is certainly not the cost. I've p*ssed away enough money experimenting in air cooling to have bought the best water cooled rig available. It's just that water cooling is an absolute science. It is the "way to go" if you want to do it right. I thrive on experimenting and water cooling is simply a "Done Deal". Look at Fly Fishing compared to dangling a juicy minnow on a hook. The juicy minnow is a "Done Deal". Sure it catches fish, but there's magic in Fly Fishing. I think you get my drift.

Hoot
 

Flash

Member
Joined
May 21, 2001
Hoot (Jul 11, 2001 10:45 p.m.):
...not to mention, it's quieter. ;D

It's just that water cooling is an absolute science. It is the "way to go" if you want to do it right. I thrive on experimenting and water cooling is simply a "Done Deal". Look at Fly Fishing compared to dangling a juicy minnow on a hook. The juicy minnow is a "Done Deal". Sure it catches fish, but there's magic in Fly Fishing. I think you get my drift.

Hoot

Hmm, I think you sell short the experimental nature of water cooling. As far as I'm concerned there's plenty to be learned--and I've done a fair amount of looking.

For instance, there's the whole submerged vs. in-line issue. Folks say that in-line is better, but I haven't seen a solid comparison using the same pump, same system. How much of a difference is there, really.

Then there's the great flowrate debate. It looks as though flowrate should be tuned to a particular system, as too low a flow raises temps., but too high a flow also raises temps. What is ideal, and what's the effect of tube diameter/pump power/other restrictions.

Then there's the big bong brouhaha. Evaporative cooling's better (so they say), but how much better on a non-peltier rig? To me, the real incentive of going with an evaportive tower is to *avoid* having to use a peltier, with the attendant risk of condensation. But I've not found a single test comparing radiator/bong in with a bare waterblock.

Other issues: how much if any advantage is there to having the reservoir outside the case vs. inside the case. Does it really matter if the fan is blowing through the radiator as opposed to sucking out (common wisdom says yes), and if so how much does it matter? What's the best way to hook up additional water blocks for video cards and/or chipsets, and how much do these additions affect cpu cooling. To what extent is it critical to match components, e.g., does it help to have a strong pump if you have a small radiator; etc.

etc., etc., etc. So come on in Hoot, the water's fine. Tie us some flies.
 

merlins_wraith

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2000
Location
VA
Hoot -

Try to build your own water block, it is challenging and tough. It took me 4 generations just to get one that works (I don't count the modified orb ... hell what else are they good for). In the end I managed to build a water 'thing' (looks more like a pipe than a block but oh well), I spent 10 bucks on it and it has a c/w of .11, and that allows me to run up to 2.5volts through my TBird with a full load temp of 63 degrees (notice I am not running it at 2.5). All in all I am prouder of this hunk of copper junk than pretty much anything else I have thrown off my work bench.

Chapter 2: Fly Tying