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FEATURED So I just de-lidded my 3770K...Results and pics inside!

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Which is most likely a bad application...from what I've seen so far. It's quite simple really, thermal transfer is better, w/mk is MUCH higher and you're moving heat from a small surface area to the ihs. The paste with higher w/mk will perform better.

EDIT: There are also some newer IB chips with better stock contact between die and ihs though...
 
Alright, ask me any delidding questions and i'll answer :p yes im finally here Ivan lol :D
 
Alright, ask me any delidding questions and i'll answer :p yes im finally here Ivan lol :D

This is a super awesome thread!!

I'd like to ask about how you hold the cpu as you make your cuts and if there's a particular type of razor or knife your prefer to use to make the cuts.

Is there a certain type of thermal paste that works best for direct waterblock mounting?

Are the core temps closer to cpu socket temps like I've experienced with AMD?
 
This is a super awesome thread!!

I'd like to ask about how you hold the cpu as you make your cuts and if there's a particular type of razor or knife your prefer to use to make the cuts.

Is there a certain type of thermal paste that works best for direct waterblock mounting?

Are the core temps closer to cpu socket temps like I've experienced with AMD?

I hold the cpu with rubber gloves and I ONLY hold it with the edges of the PCB that way you don't damage the pads on the bottom.

There is a new way to delid and it is much faster. it's called the vice method. much safer and quicker, check it out.

I use Coollaboratory liquid metal Ultra or Pro. BUT you can't use it on the IHS UNLESS you look at the bottom of your heatsink as the heatsinks base MUST be copper.

Not so sure on those socket temps... but the temp drops I've seen go all the way from 15C to 40+C.

Let me know if you need anything else. :D
 
Yeah, apparently the vice/hammer method is faster and safer. But I haven't tried it personally. I used a razor blade, and just held the CPU by the edges of the PCB with my bare (clean!) hands.

Check out the links to the threads on OCN to see what kind of temps to expect on various types of cooling.
 
What do you put in place of the IHS? I'm not clear on this.
You put it back on! Well, some people run a bare die (no IHS, just the die directly contacting the HSF), but most put the IHS back on. It's not held on in any way, it's just sandwiched there between the die and the HSF to protect the die. The point is not to remove the IHS, it's to get rid of the black glue they use to glue the IHS down, as well as to replace the stock TIM.

In my last pic from the original post, you can see the IHS sitting back on the die, after I put the CPU back in the socket.
 
I hold the cpu with rubber gloves and I ONLY hold it with the edges of the PCB that way you don't damage the pads on the bottom.

There is a new way to delid and it is much faster. it's called the vice method. much safer and quicker, check it out.

I use Coollaboratory liquid metal Ultra or Pro. BUT you can't use it on the IHS UNLESS you look at the bottom of your heatsink as the heatsinks base MUST be copper.

Not so sure on those socket temps... but the temp drops I've seen go all the way from 15C to 40+C.

Let me know if you need anything else. :D

the Cpu temp in HWMonitor is the socket/cpu temp. So @ load, hoping to see closer numbers here....

I'll look into the vice method. I use this with AMD along with a torch.....

Could you provide me a link to go with my search?

WAIT NVM


THAT?? ^^ The cpu landed on the core! That can't be a good thing lolz.
 
That really depends on whether the chip dies later.
Personally I don't see 100 to 200 mhz being anywhere near worthwhile for anything but benching.
 
You put it back on! Well, some people run a bare die (no IHS, just the die directly contacting the HSF), but most put the IHS back on. It's not held on in any way, it's just sandwiched there between the die and the HSF to protect the die. The point is not to remove the IHS, it's to get rid of the black glue they use to glue the IHS down, as well as to replace the stock TIM.

In my last pic from the original post, you can see the IHS sitting back on the die, after I put the CPU back in the socket.

So you're replacing the low-quality TIM and die? With what, normal thermal paste?
 
The TIM is not low quality, there is just too much of it because of the gap between the IHS and CPU die.

..and yes, you replace it with regular thermal paste, though the best results seem to come from coolaboratory (sp?) liquid pro.

Also, +1 to those that agree there is no need to do this, ever. You can, but it is needlessly voiding your warranty. Extreme overclockers should never do this.
 
I had no problems using liquid pro on my koolance water block direct die. I was able to clean it off quite easily.

I would caution anyone using direct-die method to be very careful when remove their waterblock the chip comes right off with the block and the motherboard pins can be damaged.
 
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