- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Hi Gang;
I've gotten some emails regarding my single blower cooling solution ( http://www.overclockers.com/tips461/ ) and I thought it would be good to share them with you all.
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Could you mount that centrifigal fan to the rear fan case opening and duct airflow over the heatsink? This would allow you to use the stock case side cover and hang the big fan out the back, keeping the case upright.
Thanks for the email Anthony. Actually, the only reason I didn't use the stock cover was because I wanted to make sure my idea would work before I cut a hole in my cover. I have since cut my cover and installed the blower on it. It actually looks nice, at least to me. The rear fan opening, at least on my mid-tower case is positioned above the heatsink and with the exhaust from the blower being so straight, the majority of the air would blow over the top of the heatsink. Perhaps some deflecting device could redirect the air downward into the heatsink, but then you impart a lot of turbulence to the airflow pattern and lose the cohesiveness.
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WOW! ... THAT WAS SOME GREAT READING ... THANKS
Your welcome Marcin. It was fun experimenting on it.
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Hello,
I read your article on overclockers.com and your use of a centrifugal blower to cool your computer. I went to grainger.com to try to find the fan but I could not. If you could please send me a model number or direct link, I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
Your welcome Jeff. The blower is made by Dayton and the part number is 2C646A
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Just read your PC cooling article - what a project and
well done. I have used the following from PC power &
cooling and got pretty good results (25F improvement)
and did'nt have to do as much surgery !
Keep up the good work !
Thanks for the tip Bbp98
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Thanks for the great article on cooling. I haven't laughed this hard in a long time. You did a great job describing your trials.
Thanks for the feedback Dennis.
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Since I wrote the article, I have increased the effectiveness even more by placing a duct directly below the fan opening in the cover. It extends down to and stops just above the top of my heatsink. The duct is 3 inch square aluminum tubing 1/8 inch wall that I got from the local Aluminum supply house. It helps maintain the concentration of airflow until it can hit the heatsink. It also reduced the sound of the rushing air (not an unpleasing sound) a little bit. It reduces the thru-case flow a little bit, but the system temp is still the same as room temp.
If you go with this setup and choose 7V as your operating voltage for the blower, do not use the old trick of placing the plus lead on the system +12 and the minus lead on the system +5. The low impedance of the motor looks like a short circuit until it spins up and when you fire up your PC, the PSU will shut down immediately, thinking something is shorted. I would be glad to answer any other questions about the article. Post an inquiry here, in the cooling section, so all can benefit from it. Check out my new speed in the signature!
Hoot
I've gotten some emails regarding my single blower cooling solution ( http://www.overclockers.com/tips461/ ) and I thought it would be good to share them with you all.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Could you mount that centrifigal fan to the rear fan case opening and duct airflow over the heatsink? This would allow you to use the stock case side cover and hang the big fan out the back, keeping the case upright.
Thanks for the email Anthony. Actually, the only reason I didn't use the stock cover was because I wanted to make sure my idea would work before I cut a hole in my cover. I have since cut my cover and installed the blower on it. It actually looks nice, at least to me. The rear fan opening, at least on my mid-tower case is positioned above the heatsink and with the exhaust from the blower being so straight, the majority of the air would blow over the top of the heatsink. Perhaps some deflecting device could redirect the air downward into the heatsink, but then you impart a lot of turbulence to the airflow pattern and lose the cohesiveness.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
WOW! ... THAT WAS SOME GREAT READING ... THANKS
Your welcome Marcin. It was fun experimenting on it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello,
I read your article on overclockers.com and your use of a centrifugal blower to cool your computer. I went to grainger.com to try to find the fan but I could not. If you could please send me a model number or direct link, I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
Your welcome Jeff. The blower is made by Dayton and the part number is 2C646A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just read your PC cooling article - what a project and
well done. I have used the following from PC power &
cooling and got pretty good results (25F improvement)
and did'nt have to do as much surgery !
Keep up the good work !
Thanks for the tip Bbp98
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the great article on cooling. I haven't laughed this hard in a long time. You did a great job describing your trials.
Thanks for the feedback Dennis.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since I wrote the article, I have increased the effectiveness even more by placing a duct directly below the fan opening in the cover. It extends down to and stops just above the top of my heatsink. The duct is 3 inch square aluminum tubing 1/8 inch wall that I got from the local Aluminum supply house. It helps maintain the concentration of airflow until it can hit the heatsink. It also reduced the sound of the rushing air (not an unpleasing sound) a little bit. It reduces the thru-case flow a little bit, but the system temp is still the same as room temp.
If you go with this setup and choose 7V as your operating voltage for the blower, do not use the old trick of placing the plus lead on the system +12 and the minus lead on the system +5. The low impedance of the motor looks like a short circuit until it spins up and when you fire up your PC, the PSU will shut down immediately, thinking something is shorted. I would be glad to answer any other questions about the article. Post an inquiry here, in the cooling section, so all can benefit from it. Check out my new speed in the signature!
Hoot