Sound cuts out while playing games, Chrome crashes.

[wingman99]

I Checked Chrome crash report and there has not been any crashes so it is windows.

 

[knoober]

Try this:
Load the repair disk and get to CMD prompt
CMD > diskpart > list disk > select disk X (whatever your boot drive is) > clean all.
Sit back and wait. SSD's are pretty quick but large capacity HDD will take a while. "Clean all" does a pretty thorough job of resetting the drive. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/52129-disk-clean-clean-all-diskpart-command.html

NOTE: This will take quite some time (several hours or more) to finish depending on how large the disk is since it is writing over each and every sector on it to zero. Think of it as being like a full or low level format.

While this is going on check your install media for scratches/blemishes or just consider using different media. Sometimes the smallest scratch will be the end of an entire install, in my experience. After the clean all finishes , remove any OC and install Windows. Add in all the fun drivers (chipset etc) and then test. My thinking is that even though you have done the format option during an install there are some sort of leftovers on your boot drive that arent getting overwritten, or possibly damaged install media. If none of that works.... well Ill be curious to see what other answers this thread turns up as well because I dont know what to do after all that

 

[wingman99]

Try this:
Load the repair disk and get to CMD prompt
CMD > diskpart > list disk > select disk X (whatever your boot drive is) > clean all.
Sit back and wait. SSD's are pretty quick but large capacity HDD will take a while. "Clean all" does a pretty thorough job of resetting the drive. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/52129-disk-clean-clean-all-diskpart-command.html


While this is going on check your install media for scratches/blemishes or just consider using different media. Sometimes the smallest scratch will be the end of an entire install, in my experience. After the clean all finishes , remove any OC and install Windows. Add in all the fun drivers (chipset etc) and then test. My thinking is that even though you have done the format option during an install there are some sort of leftovers on your boot drive that arent getting overwritten, or possibly damaged install media. If none of that works.... well Ill be curious to see what other answers this thread turns up as well because I dont know what to do after all that

Will that work in windows 10 setup? Don't SSD's overwrite with wear leaving?

 

[Rainwater]

You aren't using a disc to install are you? Use Rufus and make a usb boot drive, but if you are using a disc, then when you burn that disc be sure to do it at the slowest speed possible. Always make install media at a very slow write speed. But if Chrome is literally the only problem you are having then idk if doing another install is going to help. I've had Chrome do stuff like that to me in the past that's why I never use Google Chrome anymore but it's weird that the only thing you are experiencing is Chrome crashes.

 

[wingman99]

I tried USB install and DVD no joy yet. I just tried a reinstall of windows no clean install will see how this goes. The reason I keep working on windows is because weird things are happening, like Cut and paste did not work correctly all the time, also when I kept reinstalling my chipset drivers it would ask me to restart all the time like they were not taking, now that I did the windows 10 reinstall the chipset driver install did not ask for a reboot, something has changed for the better.

I have tried stock default settings in Bios when installing windows 10 just in case and that did not help. Chrome crash folder is empty, so chrome is not crashing it is closing sometimes unexpectedly, I have had in the past Internet Explore do the same thing that Chrome is doing. The only other thing to try is I kept the original install media, that will need allot of updates like the anniversary update.

 

[knoober]

Will that work in windows 10 setup? Don't SSD's overwrite with wear leaving?

Well Im no expert but I think an SSD doesnt overwrite at all but removes some sort of header that alerts the OS about readable information. I.E the information is still there but invisible.... or something. HHD do the same thing in a different way .. maybe. Im not gonna look it up today Clean all does actually clean all though (if you believe the manual for diskpart).

All Im saying is that if you have already wiped the OS , you might as well get the most solid install possible so that the OS can be ruled out as the source of the issue. Of course there are other ways to narrow down the issue, but it never hurts to have a rock solid install to start with. Take a system image once you are comfortable that everything is copacetic. You will thank yourself later

You would also set up different (or even the same) OS in a VM and see if you can replicate in there? Good luck whatever you do though. Sound issues are one of my pet peeves with Windows.

 

[Rainwater]

Well ya, so what are you using then? A torrented copy? Ya updates suck but tho it still sounds kind of like a Driver issue, it does sound very weird overall. Good chance when you created your Media you didn't do something perfect. Not sure what you're using to create your Usb Media or your Disc Media but for sure doing it at the slowest settings is recommended and I've found Rufus to be pretty reliable for Usb Media. I forget the Complete name for the Windows whatever tool out there but I hate it, I don't use it. But it could be a corrupted Iso Image, or a corrupted Install Media. Despite the Update time if you are using the same Iso Image (assuming you've downloaded a copy somewhere) I'd either try a different copy or the Original Media you purchased.

 

[EarthDog]

Well Im no expert but I think an SSD doesnt overwrite at all but removes some sort of header that alerts the OS about readable information. I.E the information is still there but invisible.... or something. HHD do the same thing in a different way .. maybe. Im not gonna look it up today Clean all does actually clean all though (if you believe the manual for diskpart).

All Im saying is that if you have already wiped the OS , you might as well get the most solid install possible so that the OS can be ruled out as the source of the issue. Of course there are other ways to narrow down the issue, but it never hurts to have a rock solid install to start with. Take a system image once you are comfortable that everything is copacetic. You will thank yourself later

You would also set up different (or even the same) OS in a VM and see if you can replicate in there? Good luck whatever you do though. Sound issues are one of my pet peeves with Windows.

In Order To 'Zero out' An SSD, you need to SECURE ERASE it.

 

[knoober]

In Order To 'Zero out' An SSD, you need to SECURE ERASE it.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/solid-state-drives/000022179.html seems like it might be subjective though because I found other links from other forums that said clean all would cause premature wear to an ssd. I can tell you it that it hasn't killed mine in a couple of uses though.

 

[wingman99]

Well ya, so what are you using then? A torrented copy? Ya updates suck but tho it still sounds kind of like a Driver issue, it does sound very weird overall. Good chance when you created your Media you didn't do something perfect. Not sure what you're using to create your Usb Media or your Disc Media but for sure doing it at the slowest settings is recommended and I've found Rufus to be pretty reliable for Usb Media. I forget the Complete name for the Windows whatever tool out there but I hate it, I don't use it. But it could be a corrupted Iso Image, or a corrupted Install Media. Despite the Update time if you are using the same Iso Image (assuming you've downloaded a copy somewhere) I'd either try a different copy or the Original Media you purchased.

I downloaded the windows 10 from Microsoft 3 times using there tool. I'm still waiting for something to go wrong with windows or Chrome after the last non clean install of windows, just trying something different I have not tried.

In Order To 'Zero out' An SSD, you need to SECURE ERASE it.

How do you zero out SSD from a boot drive without destroying it using free software?

 

[EarthDog]

Bootable disks.... from another pc...some higher end mobo have it built into the bios.

 

[trents]

I downloaded the windows 10 from Microsoft 3 times using there tool. I'm still waiting for something to go wrong with windows or Chrome after the last non clean install of windows, just trying something different I have not tried.


How do you zero out SSD from a boot drive without destroying it using free software?

I don't think it would hurt an SSD to zero it out unless you repeated it over and over. Before I did that, however, I would use the diskpart command with the /clean all switch.

Zeroing out a drive via secure erase can take hours.

 

[EarthDog]

I've never had a SE take more than a minute on an SSD...

That is using the bios and a btw disk.

 

[trents]

Yeah, you're probably correct about the SE on an SSD being fast. I was thinking of spinners. I have used Acronis BTW to SE spinners and it takes a long time. Goes over it three times I think.

 

[wingman99]

I found the problem. When I set the Bios to optimized default somehow the result was corruption of Bios, after finding that out I flashed the Bios and I'm testing now.

 

[EarthDog]

To at actually was the issue, enable it again a see if it corrupts. Weird how the bios, who's work is done when it hands off to windowsing is done, is affecting windows stability.

I wonder, if that really was the issue, what options it changed to cause it...

 

[wingman99]

The Clock speeds and memory timings and sub timings are set with Bios micro code, that is not handed off to windows, The only thing handed off to windows is storage operations.

From all the different problems I was having in this thread with windows and programs I thought it was some bad update somewhere because I set the Bios to optimized default before doing the clean install for safety. Usually I check to make sure the Bios is set correctly and through all this trouble I did not.

So When I looked at Bios with setting with optimized default I noticed the BCLK and Clock speed was a little off, so I tried to save the optimized default to fix it and that did not work, so then I new the hole bios in the chip was corrupted, I did a Bios flash that fixed it. The way I look at now whenever folks save the Bios settings on a motherboard that needs to use the Processor and memory, they run the risk of corrupting Bios like I did, also It is scary that there is a possibility you can't see the error in bios to find the problem.

 

[EarthDog]

So, you are saying the bios somehow corrupted itself by not setting the clockspeeds and memory timings properly when you used the optimized defaults? But now, after you reflashed, you can set optimized defaults and not have the issue, correct?

 

[wingman99]

When saving the settings in Bios somehow it corrupted things I could see in settings, however I don't think what I could see caused the unstable problems, I believe there where things that I can't see that are hidden and I don't know anything about what they do or what they are.

I have not had a problem since the Bios flash at default settings also overclocked. After flashing the Bios from what I could only see the settings are correct in Automatic default and My overclock.