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Stainless steel in the loop?

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Pierre3400

annnnnnd it's gone
Joined
May 15, 2010
Location
Euroland, Denmark
Hello guys,

I am slowly moving towards changes in my current system.

Basically i have been running Solid acrylic tubes, and i have come to the conclusion, that i have tried it now, and im ready to move back to rubber hoses, simply to much work, and way to fragile for my liking.

I have access to stainless steel and a lathe. I want to make stainless pipe between my GPU's, and maybe between other parts of my up coming build.

How does stainless steel react with the Copper blocks and distilled water?
 

Itachiii

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Hello guys,

I am slowly moving towards changes in my current system.

Basically i have been running Solid acrylic tubes, and i have come to the conclusion, that i have tried it now, and im ready to move back to rubber hoses, simply to much work, and way to fragile for my liking.

I have access to stainless steel and a lathe. I want to make stainless pipe between my GPU's, and maybe between other parts of my up coming build.

How does stainless steel react with the Copper blocks and distilled water?

It's called stainless for a reason :D :p It doesn't react with copper or water. But... since it has a great heat conductivity Idk if you'll be having any temp issues inside the case. Or I might be overthinking of it ;)
 

Silver_Pharaoh

Likes the big ones n00b Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2013
Ehhh. I wouldn't mix that in with copper even though it is stainless steel....
We all know not to mix metals right :)

Now, if you are running some automotive anti-freeze in the loop to take advantage of the corrosion inhibitors, then you might be ok..
 

Itachiii

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Ehhh. I wouldn't mix that in with copper even though it is stainless steel....
We all know not to mix metals right :)

Now, if you are running some automotive anti-freeze in the loop to take advantage of the corrosion inhibitors, then you might be ok..

If it's 99% stainless steel then there is no corrosion threat. Even if you mix it with other metals, steel ions don't mix with water in order to react with copper. It's safe... but it's pricey if u want to buy it and it's not worth the trouble for me.
 
OP
Pierre3400

Pierre3400

annnnnnd it's gone
Joined
May 15, 2010
Location
Euroland, Denmark
Materials are free for me, so that is not an issue im concerned with. My Main issue is making sure its okay to put into my loop.
 

ATMINSIDE

Sim Racing Aficionado Co-Owner
Joined
Jun 28, 2012
Don't know that I've seen this one done before... Try it, find out, and let us know.
 

caddi daddi

Godzilla to ant hills
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
should not be an issue, see page #22.
 

Attachments

  • stainless Contact_with_Other_EN.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 321

Blaylock

"That Backfired" Senior Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Location
Go Blue!
I don't think the heat conductivity would be any issue at all. The copper conducts far better than steel and there's no issue with the copper blocks "emitting" heat into a case.

As far as using Auto Anti-freeze as an anti-corrosive be careful what's used. They are not all the same. i.e. Prestone 50/50 is approximately 45% Ethylene Glycol, while Dexcool is 80-95% Ethylene Glycol and much more suited for mixed metal( read aluminum) loops.
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
If it's 99% stainless steel then there is no corrosion threat. Even if you mix it with other metals, steel ions don't mix with water in order to react with copper. It's safe... but it's pricey if u want to buy it and it's not worth the trouble for me.

This is a nonsensical statement. 99% stainless steel is not a thing.
There are many kinds of stainless steels. When we are talking about tubing, it is most commonly 303 or 304 stainless. Nickel and Chromium are the main alloying agents added to achieve it's corrosion resistance.

When 300 series steels are contaminated by cutting or welding you get a rouging effect (rust) when submersed in water. It must be passivated to stop this. This is why you see stainless bbq rust at the welds if left in the rain.


*edit good article there caddi daddi
 
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OP
Pierre3400

Pierre3400

annnnnnd it's gone
Joined
May 15, 2010
Location
Euroland, Denmark
Ineterresting.

I would be planning on making my bridges between the GPU's (2 pieces) From a solid piece of stainless steel, drill a 10mm hole, and then use the lathe to get down to my desired outside diameter. Since Polishing the inside 10mm would be pretty much impossible, i assume this would give the rough surface that could cause issues? The outside will be polished down.
 

Blaylock

"That Backfired" Senior Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Location
Go Blue!
You could go through all that, and it might work fine. The question I have though is why not just use copper? It's a known good mix, readily available in the size you need, and is a solid connection like you desire.
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Ineterresting.

I would be planning on making my bridges between the GPU's (2 pieces) From a solid piece of stainless steel, drill a 10mm hole, and then use the lathe to get down to my desired outside diameter. Since Polishing the inside 10mm would be pretty much impossible, i assume this would give the rough surface that could cause issues? The outside will be polished down.

ELECTROPOLISHING is your friend here. It also has the benefit of pulling more of the nickel and chromium to the surface increasing it's corrosion resistance.

It is relatively cheap and you should have someone in your area.


For the interior of the tube, use a reamer after initial drilling and you should not have surface finish issues.
 

EK Luc

Registered
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
You can use stainless if you want. Like someone else said, i don't know how it will perform in terms of heat dissipation though.

All our CPU blocks are using jet plates and those jet plates are made of stainless steel and the coolant is always touching it.
 

Silver Surfer

Member
Joined
May 8, 2011
Location
Darlington, South Carolina
Watercools older Heatkiller Full Coverage GPU water blocks had a full stainless steel face plate on a copper block, they never had a problem mixing those metals so I wouldn't worry about it, I used those water blocks for years running 100% steam distilled water and Biocide (Copper Sulfate), no metal reactions, no bugs, no critters.

The only warnings I see these days from various companies like EK, Watercool, is advising not to use Silver (like a Silver Kill Coil), in combination with Nickel Plated water blocks.

I have experienced a Silver Kill Coil reaction with chrome plating using citric acid, because at one time Watercool suggested using citric acid with their radiators, which was not a problem until the Silver Coil was added, and then literally all hell broke loose, if you are curious the reaction will take place, try it yourself but I don't recommend it.
 
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Itachiii

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Watercools older Heatkiller Full Coverage GPU water blocks had a full stainless steel face plate on a copper block, they never had a problem mixing those metals so I wouldn't worry about it, I used those water blocks for years running 100% steam distilled water and Biocide (Copper Sulfate), no metal reactions, no bugs, no critters.

The only warnings I see these days from various companies like EK, Watercool, is advising not to use Silver (like a Silver Kill Coil), in combination with Nickel Plated water blocks.

I have experienced a Silver Kill Coil reaction with chrome plating using citric acid, because at one time Watercool suggested using citric acid with their radiators, which was not a problem until the Silver Coil was added, and then literally all hell broke loose, if you are curious the reaction will take place, try it yourself but I don't recommend it.

PT Nuke (Benzalkonium chloride) also reacts with Nickel doing great damage to the blocks as well. Not that copper sulfate doesn't react with Nickel, but the concentration of the biocide is really low to create any damage over time. I wouldn't advise silver coil either.

About the stainless steel, as I previously said, if it's indeed stainless and u clean it properly to remove any pieces of metal that might exist, then it's just fine.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Been running 2 silver kill coils in my loop for the longest time. Been running them for 5 years now but the only issues I might have had were the koolance QDCs going to hell fairly quick or the oxidization getting a bit nasty on the Swiftech CPU blocks. have gone through 3 CPU blocks, not because of oxidization but for less restrictions and looks.

What would you guys recommend for a biocide and would this biocide need to be maintained over a certain time?

All these anti-silver movement is making me to start thinking this through. Down the road I might be grabbing a 1080 Ti, if it should show it's face with most likely EK being the WB, I wouldn't be able to use these silver's in the loop.
 

caddi daddi

Godzilla to ant hills
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
I don't remember nickel and silver reacting and in the table of elements they don't react, and when nickel reacts it often passivizes, forms a protective coating that stops the reaction.
 

Silver_Pharaoh

Likes the big ones n00b Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2013
Copper sulfate eh?
Hmmm. I'm weary of the sulfuric acid part of it..

That said, I have made a batch of copper sulfate crystals and I wonder if adding a small dissolved chunk would hurt the loop...
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
PT Nuke (Benzalkonium chloride) also reacts with Nickel doing great damage to the blocks as well. Not that copper sulfate doesn't react with Nickel, but the concentration of the biocide is really low to create any damage over time. I wouldn't advise silver coil either.

About the stainless steel, as I previously said, if it's indeed stainless and u clean it properly to remove any pieces of metal that might exist, then it's just fine.

Citations required. EKWB tells you not to use killcoil but I have seen nothing about PHN Nuke. As for the stainless comment. /facepalm