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Sticking H/S at back of Slocket?!

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MaxOClock

New Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2000
I was wondering could i stick a heatsink at the back of the sloket to give more cooling to the cpu?Will it short circuit my sloket?Or will some thermal grease be any better?Help please coz' my CPU's going 48'c at full load! :'(
 
A HS opposite the S370, on the back of the Slocket is certainly do-able. And it's a good idea. Here's the tricky part. The HS must be anodized, which isn't a problem. However, the anodization MUST be perfect on the surface that touches the PCB. If bare aluminum shows through, electrical conductivity becomes possible. While PCB's do have a protective coating, who can say if the layer of whatever the heck it is, is perfect?
 
Forgive me but what do you mean by 'adonization' and how do you go bout it? I'm pretty scared that placing the h/s on top of the pins (back of sloket) would spoil my cpu.
 
I do not think a heat sink on a sloket is going to do you any good, isn't there a square hole in the middle of the zif socket that is mounted on the board? If the chip sits on the face of the socket, that means the center part (where the die is) doesn't even touch the pcb, which means no heat is being transferred - so what use would putting a heatsink there be?
 
The way a heatsink on the back will mainly help is by getting rid of what little heat does get deposited in to the PCB. As we know, their are prickly little pins sticking out the back side of the PCB where the ZIF socket resides. You need something thick, buildable, thermal conductive, and non-electrically conductive, that will adhere the heatsink one. JB weld (also called cold weld) comes to mind. It is a thick two part resign that you will find at automotive stores. I'm not sure if conducts electricity or not. But It's worth testing. Just buy some, mix a little up, role it in to a ball, let it harden, then test it with a multi-meter set to the continuity beeper. If it passes, I'd use it.
 
Appreciate your help, Jeff but it all sounds too complex for a novice like me though. I wuz just tryin to make use of the original h/s, but on the other hand not wanting to wreck my sloket. Forgive me but my wallet's quite dried up lately and cpu's temps just shoots up during daytime coz' I'm in the equitorial zone,so room degree's at 35'C!! BTW, cool signature you've got there! ;-)
 
Anodization is the name of the process whereby a coating of who knows what is applied to the surface of raw aluminum. That's why aluminum heatsinks are usually blue, black, green, gold or whatever color other than that of bare aluminum. This layer is electrically non-conductive. It also makes heat transfer from CPU/GPU to the heatsink easier and more efficient than uncoated, shiny aluminum does.

Why AMD specified raw aluminum(which oxidises 24/7, 365) for some of its approved HS's remains baffling.

Personally, I'd use a HS that fits within the square of 370 points that are on the backside of Slockets. Why tempt fate?
 
Anodization is a coating that prevents corrosion on aluminum, magnesium, and other highly corrodible metals. Different colors of anodization are different chemicals. The black kind is called "black oxide" and it is used to coat the barrels of modern firearms.
 
If I were to test a compound for conductivity, I would use the higher Ohm ranges- not the continuity function. Many times they are current limited and will not show conduction over a few kOhms, which could still cause you some grief. Not so much from the short-circuit, up in smoke standpoint, but from loading of signal lines, and distortion of waveforms. You don't want to have an affect on the impedence of the signal lines, or you will have reflections and ringing on the waveforms- definitely a no-no on any kind of threshold logic circuitry!
 
A fan attached to the black case that the Slocket is covered by(some slockets may not have this) with the fan blowing onto the card will help remove SOME heat from the back of the PCB but it really isnt going to help a whole lot
 
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