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Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Just wrote this to help a new WC'er on another forum.

Written in real english, or not all scientific and such, with almost humor at times.

Like to sticky this if accepted.

...........................................................

Okay, here is the skinny on building a loop.

Once all the stuff is there, cut a 3" piece of tubing and learn how to put it on a barb and clamp it. Better now than when it's in the PC. Exercize the clamps or compression fittings, open, close them a few times to make them smoother.

Barbs, tighten down to finger tight so the oring is making contact with the mating surface and 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Look at oring, do it a few times to get the hang of it before it's in the PC.

Rad prep:: One of the most missed things. Boil sink water, let cool 5 min. Pour into rad filling it up, let sit 10 min. Drain 1/2 water or so, shake till your arms hurt, 3-4 min like a crazy man. Drain into a clear container. Do the rad dance again and again till the water from the rad is clear and no gunk once the water settles. Then do it two more times. NOW and only now is your rad 90% clean. No worries, the last 10% will come out in the next year or two when you redo your loop for maintenance. Oh and post a vid of ya dancin, be a fun thing to see. My wife asked me what the hell was I doing..........

Inspection: Open pump, look for gunk, packing material. Run sink water thru the blocks, pump, hose. Drain as well as you can, but don't freakaziod on draining. Inspect bottom of block, don't forget to remove the plastic cover!! Seen it done by pros, funny......

Inspect screws and holes, check they go together well first. Seen more than one bad HS screw broke in a bracket. Your rad screws might not work perfect, and DON"T put a screw through the rad, seen it done more than once.

Wash hands very well to remove any finger oils, in time it will stain your copper blocks. I wipe with alcohol before handling the stuff. Keep alcohol away from acrylic, it will crack it in time.

Install blocks on parts. Take it slow, even remove to check TIM contact if you want. Install hose, measure twice, cut once, make a bit longer if your worried, you can always cut it shorter. Dry mount everything, and inspect all clamps etc. Take a walk, watch a movie. Then inspect it again.

Unplug PSU from everything except pump. Turn PSU and wall power off. Jumper the 24 pin PSU connector green and ANY black wire. Insure PSU is off. Connect pump to PSU.

Add liquid to res till full. Turn PSU on, the pump should run dry in a second or two, turn PSU off. It's called bumping the pump. DO NOT LET PUMP RUN DRY, ceramic bearings needs water to stay cool. Fill res, do it again, and again till water is in the loop. Watch closely, a big bubble can hit the pump and no water. Then bumping the pump, tapping hoses, turning case etc till your sure you got solid water flow. Keep an eye on it for 15 min or so, then check every 15 or so to make sure the res has water to almost full and pump is running. Pump might make a whooshing noise as bubbles get pulled through it, no worries. Put paper towels around EVERY fitting, laying below the CPU block, below the pump etc, check in an hour.

If you get water/liquid all over the place, the parts need to be taken out (meaning Mobo, GPU etc), rinsed in alcohol, lightly scrubbed with a toothbrush, compressed air AND if possible blow dryed very very well on LOW heat, then left to dry for at least 24 hours. Pay close attention to the PCI slots if they get full of liquid. Compressed air helps a lot to blow them out.

By now it's late in the day, very late. Go to sleep with it running, check in the morning. Time to bump the pump, twist and turn, pinch a tube, tap rad SIDE with a screwdriver handle to break bubbles loose. Inspect the paper towels, turn it back on, run for an hour, inspect with a bright flashlight and bits of paper towels on every connection (barb and oring). No leaks? Turn er' off.

Connect Mobo and boot er up, go to bios immediately and check CPU temp. If good, boot up and check with your fav proggy, then load er' up and revel in the coolness of water and the quiet.

It could take a few days for the last of the bubbles to go away. Depending on your flow rate etc. Bumping the pump, tapping rad/hoses, pinching hose for a sec or two helps. Don't fret unless your temps are bad.

For a first time WC'er, better safe than sorry. I don't get this anal anymore, but my first time, I started Friday night, and finished Sunday. I was this careful and it's been great WC since.

01/20/09
 
Last edited:

noobert

Disabled
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
boy, we actually have to clean the stuff? I've been WC for a while and never did anyof that
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
i second the sticky . we need a new faq and one that talks about stuff normally not talked about.
 

exe163

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Great composition of common sense perfect for careless new comers (including me).
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
I vote sticky, though a disclaimer about opening blocks and pumps will void the warranty is needed, i think.

most blocks and pumps, (swiftech and D-tek, not sure on others) won't void the warranty taking them apart. they will usually have a sticker on them if it does. but i would always check first if your worried.
 
OP
Conumdrum

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Agreed on the opening of blocks. I do, my issue, I can afford the cost and downtime if I make a boo-boo.

In the sticky, I didn't say open the blocks, just the pump.

When is Mudd going to say anything?
 

grimm003

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Location
SIU
very nice! This should have been posted a few weeks ago when I did my first wc'ing.

You say when bumping the pump to watch closely for the big bubbles hitting the pump with no water, are you supposed to try and cut power to stop those because my loops goes rad -> res/pump so I never had enough time but I wonder how bad that was for it.

Some things I found useful was that adding dye to the water before/while leak testing made it a cinch to spot leaks on the paper towel. I guess that's it, just one thing.

One thing that would also help is if you could add a section about how to drain/clean/maintain the system because there is a lack of info on that and it would go nicely with this information.
 
OP
Conumdrum

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
I had my finger on my PSU button all the time, or close enough for 1 sec lapse or so. I was very very careful. I'd fill my res, put the water down, turn it on and fast off if needed. Fill again...again...again. Thus the bumping. I have to bump at least 5 times if not 10, and my loop is very easy to fill/bleed. But I used an old PSU just layed on the work area, easy to get to, no reaching around to the back of the case etc.

I don't use dye or bling of any sort, so I don't mention it, it's unneeded in any loop, but meh, up to the users.

Drain etc is for another sticky. "What do I do after it's running fine?" sticky...

It's not all inclusive, can't put it all down, thats why it's a hobby endeavour and needs some brain power to get it right. 99.9% of us are here because we don't own a Dell, if you get my drift.
 

Hipcrostino

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Location
Canberra, Australia
Exercize the clamps or compression fittings, open, close them a few times to make them smoother.

My only gripe is with this comment. we should be suggesting to people getting into water that they purchase a set of 1/2 inch automotive hose clamps. The plastic fittings that come with computer components suck and are much more prone to leaking (not that they do very oftern) than a proper hose clamp tightened with a screw driver. It costs less than $5 for a set of 10.

My two cents.

Nice write up.

EDIT: wow, i had my system up and running in about 3 hours from filling it. With automotive hoseclamps i didn't have any leaks :D . To the first timers, do it the slow way. think of the money you have invested.
 
Last edited:

Airbornederekc

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2004
Location
Massachusetts
Great advise. i have been watching to water forums for a while now and i never had anyone explain how to actually set it up. nobody ever mentioned cleaning and i can see how important it is.
 

aerick

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Location
Port Orange FL
Great advise. i have been watching to water forums for a while now and i never had anyone explain how to actually set it up. nobody ever mentioned cleaning and i can see how important it is.

+1 Great write up. I would be super if there would a list on what someone would need to set it up, like what tools. parts and what not.

Pics would be a super plus.


My 5 cents
 
OP
Conumdrum

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
My only gripe is with this comment. we should be suggesting to people getting into water that they purchase a set of 1/2 inch automotive hose clamps. The plastic fittings that come with computer components suck and are much more prone to leaking (not that they do very oftern) than a proper hose clamp tightened with a screw driver. It costs less than $5 for a set of 10.

My two cents.

Nice write up.

EDIT: wow, i had my system up and running in about 3 hours from filling it. With automotive hoseclamps i didn't have any leaks :D . To the first timers, do it the slow way. think of the money you have invested.

This sticky is for after you got all your stuff.

If using worm/screw clamps, (I use them) exercize them. It's mentioned in tons and tons of other places about what different type of fittings there are to purchase, I don't want to go over that again. WC stores sell lined screw clamps. Yes, Auto Zone clamps work fine too, but the lined ones from Petras is what I used, don't think you can get lined ones at an auto store.
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
isn't this going to be stickied? could use it so i don't have to look through the old threads for other forums.
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
Excellent basic guide. One thing though. What is "bumping"? Is that like Priming? Is priming the proper word? I have never heard that term before in this context.
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Excellent basic guide. One thing though. What is "bumping"? Is that like Priming? Is priming the proper word? I have never heard that term before in this context.

it means to turn the power on for short bursts. you fill the T line/res until its full then power the pump until the water is almost gone and refill the res/tline. you keep doing that till the loop is full.


priming the pump, in water cooling terms, would be filling the res or tline so the pump has water to it at all times.