• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Sticky submission, review please

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
O...k...isnt that just straight priming the pump? I dont know, just never heard of it with that word in this context. Sorry! :)
 
i guess it could be seen that way. i too have never heard it called bumping the pump, but then again i've never tried to call it anything before.

to me i consider priming getting water to the pump, not actually filling the system or turning on the pump.
 
Yea, priming is the better more proper word. But in reality, and to get across to the new folks, don't let the pump run without water. Add, run it, runs dry, turn it off ASAP!

Bumping aslo makes a pressure wave to help push the big bubbles on their way. Even when my loop was full, I'd still bump to push the big bubbles. I mostly never had to deal with bubble issues for very long, maybe cuz I bump?

Anyway, when the mod godz discuss it, it could be stickied. I need to clean it up somewhat too. I'll do that....
 
:clap:Thank you, very good post, clean straight & to the point It sure is very useful, And when I do get to my build, I will get a short video for ya as I do the Radiator Dance :bday:
 
I had my finger on my PSU button all the time, or close enough for 1 sec lapse or so. I was very very careful. I'd fill my res, put the water down, turn it on and fast off if needed. Fill again...again...again. Thus the bumping. I have to bump at least 5 times if not 10, and my loop is very easy to fill/bleed. But I used an old PSU just layed on the work area, easy to get to, no reaching around to the back of the case etc.

I don't use dye or bling of any sort, so I don't mention it, it's unneeded in any loop, but meh, up to the users.

Drain etc is for another sticky. "What do I do after it's running fine?" sticky...

It's not all inclusive, can't put it all down, thats why it's a hobby endeavour and needs some brain power to get it right. 99.9% of us are here because we don't own a Dell, if you get my drift.

Thankfully... since my pump just plugs into the wall... I don't have to go through THAT whole routine anymore. Before I would just disconnect my loop and plug it into an open power connector on another running PC and fill it there... a gigantic pain in the *** to be certain.

Now I can just have the PC completely off and fill the damned thing. (If I had a pump that ran off of the PC's power connector I'd probably mod it so it could be plugged into a wall just to have that convenience.)

What exactly is "finger tight"?

And good luck trying to get a sticky going... I've been trying to get one for three years now. (But I think the forum rule is: As long as you're not me... it's doable. :p )
 
Would be nice to get some headings or formatting on this if possible, prior to stickying - it's a huge block of text, and breaking it up would make it easier to read.
 
Here is another for what Delta T means. Short and sweet. Sticky?

DT Temps

A delta measurement is used in many engineering terms in many disciplines. I guess it means the difference between two of the same thing.

In water-cooling it's simply the difference between the ambient air temps and the water temp on the outgoing side of the rad. Room temps vs. water temps. A better rad setup cools better. Load meaning heat created. Stable meaning the load has been running long enough so the loop is stabilized, heat is made; it is removed and run long enuff for the water temps to get to the max under a load.

If your ambients (air into the rad) are 60C and your water exiting the rad is 65C, you got a 5C DT. And it’s important you understand this simple concept. You need xx cooling for xx heat load for a resultant xx DT. Its how you decide what size radiators you need as a minimum for the loop to perform better than air, and what’s needed for really superior max over clocks.

So for example, in a water cooled loop you generate 200 watts of heat. Your block pulls heat into the water; the heat is dissipated into the air by the rad/fans. Skinnee and Martin came up with a great chart for rad test results. Make xx heat, run xx fans with xx radiator brand and size, your DT is xx.

The efficiency of the rad determines the residual heat in the water as it circulates. A rad cannot remove ALL the heat. Heck if that was true, running a rad with no heat load would cause the water to go all the way down to below freezing theoretically. A great Delta T is under 5C, meaning you got a big rad for your heat load. Medium DT is 10C, and 15C is getting bad. CPUs need lower DT than a GPU loop.

Ultimately lucky folks with cooler temps year round can go with lesser rads. People with high ambient might need bigger rads for the same final core temp on a CPU that someone in Norway vs. Samoa can get.

Hope that helps, it’s a simple explanation, I'm not a Thermodynamic engineer.
 
Last edited:
I just attacked your first paragraph or two... im drunk and despite knowing what it means reading that part and trying to understand it made me feel stupid :sly:?

DT Temps

A delta measurement is used in many engineering terms in many disciplines. I guess it means the difference between the relation and interaction of two variables.

In water-cooling it's simply the difference between the ambient air temps and the water temp on the outgoing side of the rad.

Room temps vs. water temps.
A better rad setup cools more efficently the heat created (Load). In watercooling heat is made; it is removed and the delta refers to when the system has run long enough for the water temps to get to the max under a load and stablise.


If your ambients (air into the rad) are 60C and your water exiting the rad is 65C, you got a 5C DT. And it’s important you understand this simple concept. You need xx cooling for xx heat load for a resultant xx DT. Its how you decide what size radiators you need as a minimum for the loop to perform better than air, and what’s needed for really superior max over clocks.

So for example, in a water cooled loop you generate 200 watts of heat. Your block pulls heat into the water; the heat is dissipated into the air by the rad/fans. Skinnee and Martin came up with a great chart for rad test results. Make xx heat, run xx fans with xx radiator brand and size, your DT is xx.

The efficiency of the rad determines the residual heat in the water as it circulates. A rad cannot remove ALL the heat. Heck if that was true, running a rad with no heat load would cause the water to go all the way down to below freezing theoretically. A great Delta T is under 5C, meaning you got a big rad for your heat load. Medium DT is 10C, and 15C is getting bad. CPUs need lower DT than a GPU loop.

Ultimately lucky folks with cooler temps year round can go with lesser rads. People with high ambient might need bigger rads for the same final core temp on a CPU that someone in Norway vs. Samoa can get.

Hope that helps, it’s a simple explanation, I'm not a Thermodynamic engineer.


END SABOUTAGE :D

maybe a couple of simple diagram figs to relate to just to help people in a spin visualise things easy.

that is all :salute:
 
the relation and interaction of two variables.
Too many fancy words. Good wine makes the words big n fat?

Room temps vs. water temps.
A better rad setup cools more efficently the heat created (Load). In watercooling heat is made; it is removed and the delta refers to when the system has run long enough for the water temps to get to the max under a load and stablise.

You lost the meaning of load in a heat sense. They need to understand that is expressed in heat (watts is one way, calories is another). Watts is easily understood with watts used by a processor, see using may programs like HW Monitor) Of course a better rad setup cools better.

I see what your saying, but keeping it at an 8th grade level for totaly new concepts helps. I learned that in course writing classes. I used to teach wild concepts (electronics) to young kids for years.

keep at it though, I aprreciate your help.
 
sounds like a decent sticky, when i was fillling my loop i used a fan controller to stop the pump, (my power supply didnt have a switch on the back)
 
Conundrum, could I request that I try to format it for you? I shall warn you beforehand that I'll remove humour though.
 
Thank you Blazing fire, I won't sticky it without some formatting. It has good info, but it's organization is not as good as we should demand from our stickies. Especially now that we have anchor tags, it could be organized with headings or a table of contents very easily.

I'm not sure why conundrum is stonewalling.
 
Sure Blaze, make it proper. IMOG, I'm just not good at this stuff. I write from the heart and since It's not a job I don't worry about it as much. And in these busy times I need to decide how to use my time. You kinda know where the time is spent, your not a young pup either, hehe.
 
No prob homey, was just looking for an answer - you can always tell me to get stuffed. ;)

You've contributed a lot of useful info, allowing someone to make it more accessible will be great. Thanks!
 
Back