Super's WC project, community help and motivation solicited!

[Super Nade]

O.K Folks,

Finally, it has come to this. I have nothing more to upgrade/optimize, which would give me that warm feeling inside. I have it all, SLI, TCCD, BH5 and the Opteron. The only things left are WC and TEC cooling. I've decided to take the first step, i.e WC.

These are the components I have:-
Swiftech MCP650, DD GPU Block (not in pic), 2 x 120 mm fans and some tubing fluid.

This is how bad my case looks:-

Now, I'd like to turn this into a quiet beast with a minimal amount of fuss. I don't have the time to machine stuff, so I'm looking for the best value commercial components.

I believe I need the following and my choices in [ ] :-
1.Radiator [ BIX Pro with 3/8" fittings]
2.Tubing, should I choose standard Tygon or Clearflex ?
3.Reservoir (is it necessary, since I would like to do SLI cooling? )
4.Another DD Maze GPU block.
5.Another cheap *** PSU/Meanwell PSU to power fans and the pump.

*I would not like to exceed $150 on this project.

Now, the next part deals with how I would optimally position these. Drilling holes in my case to mount everything would be a big hassle, as I don't have tools and I need an appointment to use the shop at my Uni. I'd be perfectly happy to let the Radiator hang on its own by an open window, or sit atop the case.

This would be the nth time I've thought about WC and given up. Since spring break is approaching, I want to get this project done before SB ends!
I'm open to any ideas and suggestions you folks may offer.

Thanks in advance,

S-N

 

[Flip-Mode]

Put a double BIP mounted on the back of the case using extra long fan screws, thats IF you have a 120MM fan in the back.

 

[veryhumid]

he doesn't, but he could always use a swiftech radbox to mount the rad from any size fan hole.

 

[Super Nade]

I would need stand-offs right? With all the wires sticking out of the back of my case, its gonna be a tough call. Look at the pic. I use almost all those USB ports, so how should I fit the rad to the rear end?

 

[Flip-Mode]

Ok, use this, it will hook to the 80mm fan screws and you will able to mount the double rad.
Great invention if you ask me.
Credit for the suggestion goes to veryhumid.

 

[OCS911]

Clearflex and T-Line would be cheaper since you don't want to spend too much money on it

 

[d94]

bro! i would highly advise doing the same setup i got!

 

[jamesavery22]

O.K Folks,
... I don't have tools ...
Thanks in advance,

S-N

How is this not an incentive to buy some When you are on a tight budget, want it quiet, and want good performance, it's pretty lame to say "Drilling holes in my case to mount everything would be a big hassle."

Modding stuff and manufacturing your own stuff is more than half the fun for me.


sorry a little OT back on topic,

1.Radiator
If you really want cheap and good performance get a heatcore. fedco 2-342. Surprised no one recommended that... Its ubber cheap, great performance, its just a little thick. So it wont be as quiet as a 1" thick rad but with shroud and some slow 120s it will be fine.
Also forget the swiftech radbox. Just buy 6" or 1' 8-32/10-32(which ever fits through the holes in the HC and the rear of your case) rods and some nuts.
Actually, now that I think of it, Id rather get a 2 pass heatercore, jbweld(if you refuse to use jbweld I'll stab you in the face) some nuts to the top of the case to serve as mounts for those threaded rods to hold the heatercore about 2" above the top of the case and parrallel to the top of the case. Have the two barbs over the back end of the case and route your tubing through the back.


2.Tubing, should I choose standard Tygon or Clearflex ?
clearflex from mcmaster.com 5231K237 (0.79c a foot)

3.Reservoir (is it necessary, since I would like to do SLI cooling? )
?I have no idea what you are referring to about SLI and resevoirs. Use a T line.

4.Another DD Maze GPU block.
ok. Scour the FS/FT forums. Maze4 GPU blocks are quite popular

5.Another cheap *** PSU/Meanwell PSU to power fans and the pump.
Why do you feel you need another PSU for a MCP650 and 2 120s when you are going to get rid of most of your case/heatsink fans?

 

[Stratus_ss]

how does that setup work?
it looks like the res is only hooked into the loop with the y connector.

Nice wiring job by the way. is your case built to allow everything behind the mobo mount or did you do that yourself?
very tidey I'll have to give that a try myself

also what is connecting the SATA I havent seen that before

 

[jamesavery22]

how does that setup work?
it looks like the res is only hooked into the loop with the y connector.

Nice wiring job by the way. is your case built to allow everything behind the mobo mount or did you do that yourself?
very tidey I'll have to give that a try myself

also what is connecting the SATA I havent seen that before

He doesn't have a res. just a T line.

 

[Stratus_ss]

ok then what exactly does a T-line do? how does that work?

 

[jamesavery22]

ok then what exactly does a T-line do? how does that work?

before you turn your pump on you position your case/loop/whatever so that the T fitting is highest point in the loop and the Tube/Line going into the perpendicular part of the T is oriented straight up. You pour the coolant into that Line until your loop is full. It takes some time as the air that is being pushed out by the liquid has to come out the same line and you have to move your case around sometimes to shake out the bubbles.

Once that is done you turn your pump on and make sure the level of coolant in the T line doesnt go down too much. As the air bubbles you missed while filling move through your loop they will eventually go up the T line and your loop will be completely bled.

 

[Stratus_ss]

oh I see so the T line almost acts like a mini res by providing the extra coolent for working the air bubbles out.
thanks for the info
SuperNade: sorry for the post hijack

 

[Super Nade]

james and other folks, thanks a lot for your suggestions.

Now that I think about it, I would get a dremel set if its on sale.
As for the heatercore, the only reason I don't want to go that route is because I don't have access to a shop to weld on barbs and fabricate a nice looking shroud. Ifthat is going to cost extra, might as well buy a commercial one. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for creativity,but I'm really preassed for time. I need to set-up everything in about a couple of days, as I need my system for school work.

Regarding the reservoir, I was under the impression that one needs a decent sized bath to hold the water. Would the volume of water in the tubes be sufficient to cool a fully overclocked DC+SLI system?

The reason I wanted a seperate PSU for my WC setup is because in the future, I intend to move to a peltier based system.

D94, if you notice, I don't have as much room as you do to play with. All these wires jiggling around in my case are a bit of a barrier. Some part of your tubing has no water in it, why is that?

And Stratus_ss, no problems mate, feel free to ask any questions you wish to.


BTW* Who is jbweld?

 

[citronym]

You don't need a volume of water to cool effectively. More water still heats to the same temp, it just takes longer (if I understand correctly). Unless you had a very large res, the radiator does all the cooling.

JB weld is an sealing/bonding epoxy sold at hardware stores.

 

[VballCoach]

Nade - Target has a dremel set made by Durabrand. it's pretty good. For $24.99 not bad when it comes with the flexible attachment.

pm me if you need brass barbs, worm clamps

 

[PerlAddict]

if you refuse to use jbweld I'll stab you in the face

LOL. That's totally going in my sig.

 

[clocker2]

These are the components I have:-
Swiftech MCP650, DD GPU Block (not in pic), 2 x 120 mm fans and some tubing fluid.
I believe I need the following and my choices in [ ] :-
1.Radiator [ BIX Pro with 3/8" fittings]
2.Tubing, should I choose standard Tygon or Clearflex ?

Your pump and pictured CPU block are both 1/2" fittings so why are you calling for a radiator with 3/8" barbs?

 

[Super Nade]

Your pump and pictured CPU block are both 1/2" fittings so why are you calling for a radiator with 3/8" barbs?

Good question. See, that's why you lads are so good.

VBall coach, I'll check out Target over the weekend. That's a decent price.

 

[veryhumid]

oh I see so the T line almost acts like a mini res by providing the extra coolent for working the air bubbles out.
thanks for the info
SuperNade: sorry for the post hijack

the res would basically do the same thing, but you have to find a space to mount it. also some res. have higher pressure drops compared to systems with a t-line.