Tentative new water build parts list

[GearingMass]

Planning on ordering parts for a new rig, would love a second set of eyes to look over the list. It's fairly finalized, but it's my first water-cooled build, so just in case I missed something, I'll leave a list here!


CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($301.00)
Thermal Compound: Prolimatech PK-3 Nano Aluminum High-Grade 5g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $14.99)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 OC FORMULA ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($226.13 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($152.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card ($689.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Phantom 630 Windowed Edition (Black) ATX Full Tower Case ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($119.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Dell U2414H 60Hz 23.8" Monitor ($279.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: *Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition 63.5 CFM 120mm Fan ($14.99 @ Amazon) x3
Case Fan: *Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition 62.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) x5
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Other: XSPC AX360 (White) ($111.23)
Other: XSPC AX240 (White) ($90.40)
Other: Swiftech Apogee HD ($46.99)
Other: EK 780ti Classy WB & BP ($155.98)
Other: PrimoFlex Adv. LRT Tubing (White) -12ft ($24.00)
Other: Various compression fittings ($80.00)
Other: MCP50X & Maelstrom V2 pump/res bay combo ($139.99)
Total: $3174.67

Going for a black & white theme here, but yellow as well, necessitated by the MB color scheme, but I think it'll look good!
I've got all the other peripherals, so I'm good there.

A few notes:
The keyboard is the most up-in-the-air thing, I'm looking for a quality mechanical one with cherry MX red or brown switches. I don't need a bunch of macro buttons, but wrist support is nice

I know the power supply is overkill for this build, but before you say anything (I'm looking at you ATM ), I will be over clocking a fair bit and possibly going SLI eventually, so I have plenty of headroom for that. Plus I've used that PSU before and it's quality

 

[ATMINSIDE]

A Z97 Extreme6 would be more than enough motherboard for you.
I believe you can also get the GA-Z97X-UD3H in all black

Look at the EVGA SuperNova G2 850W.
It'll save you some cash, it's as good of quality as that Seasonic, and it has a longer warranty.

Look at the Noctua Redux fans, the SP and AF fans are a little lackluster.

Make sure the K70 is fully mechanical, I know some Corsair boards are partially membranes...
My G710+ is AWESOME though. It has MX Brown keys, with O-rings. White backlight to go with your theme

Looks solid though.

Edit: Yep, GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK

 

[GearingMass]

A Z97 Extreme6 would be more than enough motherboard for you.
I believe you can also get the GA-Z97X-UD3H in all black

Look at the EVGA SuperNova G2 850W.
It'll save you some cash, it's as good of quality as that Seasonic, and it has a longer warranty.

Look at the Noctua Redux fans, the SP and AF fans are a little lackluster.

Make sure the K70 is fully mechanical, I know some Corsair boards are partially membranes...
My G710+ is AWESOME though. It has MX Brown keys, with O-rings. White backlight to go with your theme

Looks solid though.

Edit: Yep, GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK

Thank you for the suggestions and tips! I will review it all tonight before I make any purchases.

As far as the fans go, I'm fine wit Noctuas interesting color choice for my rad fans, since those will be tucked away, but for the airflow 120mm's, I'd like something not earth brown. lol
I was looking at gentle typhoons for the airflow fans, but they seem to be sold out everywhere.
As for the rad fans, I looked into those 3000rpm industrial Noctuas you suggested elsewhere, and while I'm positive those are the best, the stats are at 3000 rpm and 43dB. Once that is down to 2350rpm like the SP's, I don't know how much more performance I'd get for the price/uglier color.
I'd look at gentle typhoons, but again, I can't seem to find any in stock.

As for the keyboard, that's funny you should mention the G710+, because that's the keyboard I had picked out for the longest time, but I kept reading that everyone was having problems with the left control and a few other keys popping off and having terrible customer service experiences. So that's why I started looking around for a different keyboard.

Edit: Oh, and do you have any recommendations for brand of compression fittings? Also, would you recommend trying to work some quick release fittings in, or is it easy enough to drain a loop with proper planning...

 

[ATMINSIDE]

The Redux fans aren't brown

I've had ZERO issues with my keyboard. Heavy use for over a year now.

I used Swiftech compressions and QDCs in my loop, they worked great
A couple of QDCs can make swapping parts and things like that easier, but aren't necessary by any means.

 

[GearingMass]

The Redux fans aren't brown

I've had ZERO issues with my keyboard. Heavy use for over a year now.

I used Swiftech compressions and QDCs in my loop, they worked great
A couple of QDCs can make swapping parts and things like that easier, but aren't necessary by any means.

That is true, they aren't. Do they perform better than the SP's?

And ok bear with me here, so if you were to install QDCs in the lines immediately to and from the reservoir, could you in theory disconnect those two QDCs, empty the reservoir + the bit in those immediate lines, and leave the rest of the water sealed in the rest of the loop for transportations without a full drain of the system?

Also I forgot biocide….and if there's no aluminum in the loop, is anticorrosive necessary?

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Very much so. Look at the PWM versions so you can control them

Correct!!

Nope, if it's all copper you're good without anticorrosive.

 

[GearingMass]

Very much so. Look at the PWM versions so you can control them

Correct!!

Thanks!

Nope, if it's all copper you're good without anticorrosive.

Well it's all copper and brass, except for the GPU block, which is nickel-plated copper. I don't know if that's a problem, having nickel in there, but that's the only one I could find that fits the classy 780ti. The EVGA one you mentioned seems to no longer exist, and I can't find it anywhere.
Well the GPU, yes, just not the block itself. Although, the GPU with the hydro block costs way more than just putting your own block on, plus I don't know what TIM EVGA uses on their hydro block.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Well, the Classified Hydro Copper is clocked pretty darn high. Add to that the fact that you get a block, backplate, and pack of fittings and it all adds up pretty fast!

Nickel and copper are fine together, it's just aluminum you have to watch for.

 

[GearingMass]

Well, the Classified Hydro Copper is clocked pretty darn high. Add to that the fact that you get a block, backplate, and pack of fittings and it all adds up pretty fast!

Nickel and copper are fine together, it's just aluminum you have to watch for.

Actually yes, you're right, it comes out to being just about even. Just depends I suppose if you want to apply your own blocks or use EVGAs.
Now I have another decision to make

How are the temps on your 780 classy hydro? You may have already mentioned..

P.S. I like the reviews of the EVGA 850W G2, I'm going to go with that instead of the Seasonic

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Actually yes, you're right, it comes out to being just about even. Just depends I suppose if you want to apply your own blocks or use EVGAs.
Now I have another decision to make

How are the temps on your 780 classy hydro? You may have already mentioned..

P.S. I like the reviews of the EVGA 850W G2, I'm going to go with that instead of the Seasonic

Heh, I'll let you know, Swiftech makes the EVGA block. It's a variant of their Komodo design.

Under 45°C while pushing 1200+MHz gaming at 5760x1080. Most games are under 40° even.
Fans on 22% PWM the whole time.

It's an absolutely killer unit. EVGA took the market by storm with their SuperNova G2 lineup.
Quality is insanely good, with a price point under the competition. Toss in a 10 year warranty and

 

[GearingMass]

Heh, I'll let you know, Swiftech makes the EVGA block. It's a variant of their Komodo design.

Under 45°C while pushing 1200+MHz gaming at 5760x1080. Most games are under 40° even.
Fans on 22% PWM the whole time.

It's an absolutely killer unit. EVGA took the market by storm with their SuperNova G2 lineup.
Quality is insanely good, with a price point under the competition. Toss in a 10 year warranty and

+1

+2

Sold! to the man who knows his stuff.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

+1

+2

Sold! to the man who knows his stuff.

Hey, gotta put the research I did for my build to use somewhere!!

 

[GearingMass]

Look at the Noctua Redux fans, the SP and AF fans are a little lackluster.

Should I go for industrial 2000rpm ones for the rads and redux for the air intake/exhaust? The redux fins look a little "open" to be rad fans, but what do I know

Thought I'd ask. Also, why is there an IP67 version of some of the fans?

 

[GearingMass]

Another question for you while I try and figure out this Swiftech quick-release system

I'm seeing that swiftech only sells 3/8 & 1/2 ID compression fittings, is this correct? I was planning on 7/16 so will I have to switch ID sizes if I want to use Swiftech quick release, or is there a way around that?

Edit: I can only find the 780 ti classy hydro copper on EVGA.com. The 780 classy HC is on amazon at least, but the TI version barely seems to exist anywhere except EVGA. Odd.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Should I go for industrial 2000rpm ones for the rads and redux for the air intake/exhaust? The redux fins look a little "open" to be rad fans, but what do I know

Thought I'd ask. Also, why is there an IP67 version of some of the fans?

The AX series is pretty low FPI, either set of fans will do fine.
The 2000RPM Industrial fans will definitely give you more adjustment capability via PWM though.

The IP67 version is waterproof/dustproof. The normal Industrial is all you would need.

Another question for you while I try and figure out this Swiftech quick-release system

I'm seeing that swiftech only sells 3/8 & 1/2 ID compression fittings, is this correct? I was planning on 7/16 so will I have to switch ID sizes if I want to use Swiftech quick release, or is there a way around that?

Edit: I can only find the 780 ti classy hydro copper on EVGA.com. The 780 classy HC is on amazon at least, but the TI version barely seems to exist anywhere except EVGA. Odd.

Which part is stumping you about the QDC? It isn't simple lol.

Yeah, I don't know of any other sizes they make.
You'll have to make sure the ID and OD of the tubing and the fitting match.
You don't have to use their fittings, that's just what I used.

I don't see it anywhere else either. Interesting.

 

[GearingMass]

The AX series is pretty low FPI, either set of fans will do fine.
The 2000RPM Industrial fans will definitely give you more adjustment capability via PWM though.

The IP67 version is waterproof/dustproof. The normal Industrial is all you would need.

So I think I'll go with the 2000rpm industrial PWMs for the rads, 120mm redux 1200 PWMs for the front intakes, and 140mm redux 1500 PWM for the back exhaust

Which part is stumping you about the QDC? It isn't simple lol.

Yeah, I don't know of any other sizes they make.
You'll have to make sure the ID and OD of the tubing and the fitting match.
You don't have to use their fittings, that's just what I used.

I don't see it anywhere else either. Interesting.

This is what i'm trying to sort out:



I think what they're saying is that you can either use G1/4" tops and then screw in your fitting of choice, or use their fittings straight off the bat in order to decrease overall length - correct me if I'm wrong.

If that is the case and I do what to use theirs, should I switch to 3/8 or 12 ID? and if 3/8, which OD?

Here's my current proposed loop order.
The blue circles are possible places to put a QDC, so that every component can be independently taken out and drained away from the case.
Tell me what you think.




And yes, I find it odd that EVGA is the only place to find it, so it's a little more expensive than mounting your own blocks, but I can justify that since it looks to be such a well done full coverage copper block.

---

 

[ATMINSIDE]

The fan setup sounds like a winner to me!

Correct, you can swap the ends of those QDCs. I have some in my build, check my log for pictures with the ends swapped.
What you do is buy the QDC pair, then buy whatever ends for it you want (unless you just want to screw in fittings).
I used a male G1/4 end and a 3/4" OD / 1/2" ID compression end on most of my QDCs.

Either ID will be fine. The 3/8" will bend a little better than the 1/2".
The OD is determined by what OD the compression fitting calls for.

An easy way to get that same goal:
Screw a QDC with the male G1/4 end into each port of the rads, then put one with two compression ends between the GPU and CPU.

I was VERY impressed with the quality of the Hydro Copper blocks.
It is odd they're the only ones that have it, but I'd trust them to actually have it as they do list OOS on their site if they don't have any.

 

[GearingMass]

The fan setup sounds like a winner to me!

Correct, you can swap the ends of those QDCs. I have some in my build, check my log for pictures with the ends swapped.
What you do is buy the QDC pair, then buy whatever ends for it you want (unless you just want to screw in fittings).
I used a male G1/4 end and a 3/4" OD / 1/2" ID compression end on most of my QDCs.

Either ID will be fine. The 3/8" will bend a little better than the 1/2".
The OD is determined by what OD the compression fitting calls for.

An easy way to get that same goal:
Screw a QDC with the male G1/4 end into each port of the rads, then put one with two compression ends between the GPU and CPU.

I was VERY impressed with the quality of the Hydro Copper blocks.
It is odd they're the only ones that have it, but I'd trust them to actually have it as they do list OOS on their site if they don't have any.

Ah ok, I get it now.

I'll probably switch to 3/8 x 5/8 then, that shouldn't give me any problems.

Ah yes, so have them just coming out of the rads instead of in the middle of the line, save for the gpu-cpu one, for a cleaner look - good idea.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Spot on

Just takes some pre-planning for that stuff haha

 

[GearingMass]

Spot on

Just takes some pre-planning for that stuff haha

Yes it certainly does!
I thought about getting sleeved white cables for the EVGA G2, but $90 is hard to justify when the standard black cables already match the build colors. Would look sick, though.

Also, did I see in your build log that you're using Del U2414H's? How do you like those?