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The 'OFFICIAL' Thread on unlocking AMD CPUs!

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I've decided to try the nail polish technique to fill the bridges.

What else might work to connect the L1's on an XP1600? Would regular thermal grease work? (it's not arctic silver, but is some other generic silver thermal compound for CPUs I picked up at an electronics store).

If not that is there anything else besides defogger paint or contact pen?
 
help!!!!

I HAVE TRIED TO UNLOCK THE 2000+ AND ONLY GOT AS LOW AS 11 MUTIPLIER BELOW THAT NO BOOT.I have redone the unlock job 4 times and the same results. Now I have the 2200+ and got the pen that buckhunter used and did a nice job connecting the 5th l3 bridge. Will I cant get below 11 mutiplier. Agian the same thing.I have memory at 22225 ultra voltage at 185 I think with active cooling>Its pc2700 ddr sumsomthing.I have a vantec copper chipset cooler for momboard.I have copper cooler with copper heat sinks from Themaltake for a PNY ti4600 card running at 300/700.A Koolance water cooled case with 6 80mm fans.An abit KX7-333r momboard.I loaded the latest bios for the momboard.I am starting to think theres something wrong with the momboard.

Signed,

PLEASE HELP!!!!:eh?:
 
Penance said:
I've decided to try the nail polish technique to fill the bridges.

What else might work to connect the L1's on an XP1600? Would regular thermal grease work? (it's not arctic silver, but is some other generic silver thermal compound for CPUs I picked up at an electronics store).

If not that is there anything else besides defogger paint or contact pen?

Don't use thermal grease, it will smear. Use something conductive and that hardens.
 
:( I am dying to overclock my duron 650Mhz on my Iwill KV200 motherboard with 384Mhz PC133 SDRAM.

I know about unlocking my Duron using the pencil trick. and basically about Multipliers x FSB = CPU internal clock speed.
The risks involved and all that.

But thats all i found from reading all the guides about overclocking.

How do I change my multipliers?

And a big thank you to Arkaine for your lucid explaination in reply to the question posed by Saleen. Your answer was the switch that finally illuminate all the bulbs in a dark room.

....8/8/2002...
Got to know my mobo does not support multiplier adjustment from the manufacturer. :(

Anyway i found out about www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?/workshop/socketa/socketa_resistors.html

:) anyone used the method described therein to adjust their multipliers and voltage? Any comments?

Thanks again..
 
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:(

I have tried 6 or 7 times to unlock my xp1600 with the overclocking kit. I failed everytime.. It looks perfect when I do it. Its covering the dots and is connected well. The gap is filled with super glue. Help :/
 

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A question here: If i get a 2200xp tbred, can i get working multipliers greater than 12? How far can unlocking bring the lasest athlon?
 
I don't suppose there's much anything left on the dots by now after 6 tries, but have you sanded/scraped them before? If your chip is the green kind then there is a coating on the dots that must be removed from the L1 bridges so good contact can be made. That would be my best suggestion to you, so let me know what happens!.
 
Well well, finally. After like 5 more tries, I got it unlocked. But, it does me no good to unlock..lol Cause just at normal speed (1.4ghz) It runs at like 49/50 c I have a Volcano 5 and 3 power supply fans jimmy rigged in there..yet it runs so high. Any clue why?
 
Volcano 5, and I dont know. I just ordered a better heatsink for my xp2000+ i ordered. So hopefully I wont have to worry about that for that one.
 
Athlon XP 1700+ unlocking problems

My dad (big thanks to him ;) ) helped me unlock the xp (did the dirty work for me lol ).Well it's not unlocked yet :(
The L1 bridges are supposed to be (before) : : : : : and after | | | | | right? Yes. My dad filled the gaps with super glue before starting (also tested it with my multimeter to see if it is conductive, which is not) and then proceded with connecting the dots.He took every masking precautions (clear tape on the surrounding dots). After connecting only 4 of the dots ( ||::: ) we tested the "line" together with the AMD logo + many other LARGE dots, to see if they made contact, which they DID (not a good thing right?). We also tested the 2 lines with each other and they also showed contact. I must say that there is NOT a VISIBLE connecting of the 2 lines OR any of the lines with surrounding dots, or letters.
At this point we stopped the "operation" lol and here I am posting.
According to what I've read , the lines shouldn't be making any contact right?(remember there is not a visible connection)
Is all this OK (to proceed with connecting the rest of the bridges) or should I stop and undo the connections?

PS
My m/b is STUCK at the local comp store until the end of the week , so I don't have an m/b to test the xp.

Thanks in advance for your replies
 
is it really clean? like how it was unlocked? or the few? im sure they may connect somewere internally.... can you take a pic?
 
I can't take a pic :-((((( sorry.

I looked at it with a magnifying glass, one that makes my finger one inch thick lol, and there is not an external connection of the 2 lines. It crossed my mind that they might be internally connected ;).
Since I , er... my dad, connected them pretty clean (he is detail-maniac, so everything he does is pretty clean and organised).can we continue connecting and hoping it will not fry my RAM ?
Thanks for the reply
 
LiGhTBoY said:
I looked at it with a magnifying glass, one that makes my finger one inch thick lol, and there is not an external connection of the 2 lines. It crossed my mind that they might be internally connected ;).
Since I , er... my dad, connected them pretty clean (he is detail-maniac, so everything he does is pretty clean and organised).can we continue connecting and hoping it will not fry my RAM ?
Thanks for the reply

Depends on the resistance of the "connections" you're measuring. Each of the L1s is connected to a signal bus, and all 5 signal busses probably connect to "comparators" in the Multiplier Module front end. So there's bound to be some "continuity" between the 5 signal circuits. If you measure resistance in the megohms range, then that's probably "internal" resistance between the circuits...OK. If less than 1000, or 100 ohms, esp to ground, then you may have short circuits or semi-short circuits between the bridges or to ground...NG. Esp check for resistance from the bridges to ground..if very low then bad. Also don't put probe on the closed bridges as that may destroy the closing mod. Put one test probe on the L1 socket pin, the other test probe on whatever you're checking resistance to.

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Palomino article to find diagrams and pics which locate specfic L1 bridges with the socket pins they each connect to. The article may also spec some ground pins, if not that article try others, sure we ID some Vss/Gd pins somewhere. Have your Dad look this over.
Good Luck, John C.

PS:- Test probe is difficult to hold onto socket pins...fab a small diameter soft metal tube which just fits over the pins...squeeze if necessary...also attach tube to a wire for grabbing with a "grabber" test clip with no bending stress on to the pins.
 
[/QUOTE]does anyone have any ideas of what i did?
sorry for such a long post. [/B][/QUOTE]

May I suggest you try clearing (resetting) the cmos/bios by switching off and moving that link over?

Mine would do the same thing if it didnt like the FSB multiplier settings.
 
ok... i read all 5 pages..... i still have some newbie questions

first, if you unlock your chip... you will automatically get a option in ur bios to let you change the multiplier, right???? probobly wrong.... so how do i get it???

i heard some people saying something about resetting cmos... is that basically flashing bios???

other than that... i took my xp 1600 (1.4GHz) and "overclocked" it to 1.64 GHz without unlocking it, and it works stable... although i can't add more voltage to it... im at 1.9.... but since the temp is still exactly the same as i started (im using a room fan pointing into my computer) i know i can go much farther

answers would be helpful
 
why reset cmos

People reset cmos when they can't boot with
some option they set in cmos. Resetting cmos
means telling cmos to boot with default config,
and the only way I have noticed is as mboard
manuals say, to short across two connectors
on the motherboard.

Resetting cmos might be necessary if you
set impossible RAM timings, for instance.
 
flashing bios vs. resetting cmos

Flashing the bios means updating the bios.

Resetting cmos means returning cmos to
a default config, abandoning all settings
you have set in cmos. Flashing bios means
downloading the latest bios flash program
from the motherboard manufacturer and
running it from a dos boot disk--I've never
seen a linux bios flash executable! The
bios flash simply loads the latest data
into bios so boot-up bugs are fixed and
new hardware is recognized. For example
a bios flash might make a hard drive
controller pci card recognized so you
could set cmos to boot from a hard
drive on a controller card that didn't
boot before the bios update.
 
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