The 'OFFICIAL' Thread on unlocking AMD CPUs!

[recbo]

where to get silver circuit pens

I got one at Microcenter so your local pc megastore
may have one.

You can order them online from the overclocking
suppliers such as--

http://www.coolerstar.com/index.html

http://www.crazypc.com/

http://www.hardcorecooling.com/index.htm?catalog.htm&1

http://www.xpcgear.com/

at least two of those probably have circuit pens. I used
Scotch magic tape which is thin. Thin is better for masking.

 

[recbo]

why bother with L1 contacts?

If you can get high enough multipliers already
for the overclocking you want to do, why
unlock L1?

Because you haven't locked up yet
so you can reset cmos for the first
time in your life and back off to one
multiplier setting lower. This is what
differentiates experimenters from
theoreticians, not to say makes them
better.

Because you haven't fried your cpu yet.

Because you want to show off your
cmos boot screen saying you have
an XP 2000+ now when you really
have an overclocked unlocked
1900+.

Because you need more heat to
grow algae faster.

 

[recbo]

still too hot? What kind of thermal conducting
compound did you use, and how smooth and
tight is the heat sink to cpu connection? If
cooling performance doesn't match expectations
for the heatsink and fan setup I'd look there.

 

[thesaucier]

I have found the answer

I have found the answer to my owen question. once you get
over 166FSB you must change the 4x2x2 setting to 5x2x2.
I am now at 10x 200 fsb. thanks for all the advise.

 

[Koutetsu]

Crayon to fill the pits, and whiteout to connect the bridges, will it work?

 

[JFettig]

cince when is witeout conductive? but you can fill the gaps with crayon make sure to cover the dots

 

[JFettig]

Re: why bother with L1 contacts?

Because you want to show off your
cmos boot screen saying you have
an XP 2000+ now when you really
have an overclocked unlocked
1900+.

Because you need more heat to
grow algae faster.

how bout seeing your 1600+ hit 2400+ you like that? AND being STABLE

 

[recbo]

whiteout conductive?

Most opaque white commercial products are
made from zinc oxide, including sun blocker
and white paint and I suppose the white
heat transfer compound for heatsinks.

Zinc is conductive, but whiteout may not
be very conductive because of the suspension
medium. Ever squeezed out silver epoxy from
under heatsinks so it got on chip leads? I did
and there was no problem when I fired up
the board with electricity. So the suspension
medium might prevent zinc or silver from
conducting electricity while allowing good
or excellent heat transfer, but I wouldn't
use whiteout or silver epoxy or zinc-based
white heat transfer compound.

-Bob

 

[Coxjeet]

Yes since this thread is about unlocking. I was wondering how to unlock a Duron 1.3 Morgan??

Okay I notice it's almost identical as my old duron 750. Well except it has arrows and on the L1 bridge the first bridge is not 1 dot like on the old one.

So I came here an searched on how to unlock these duron morgans. The threads said just pencil in all 5 bridges just like on the old duron except now their are 5.

Okay I did that put it back into my Msi kt7 pro2-a mobo. Assuming I did it right I changed the mulitpler to x14. Nope it still reconigzes it at x13 multipler at 1300.
Well I took it off again to make sure this time I got some good pencil on it. Nope same thing.

So this Duron 1.3 morgan isn't able to be unlocked and overclocked?? Well it's not a big deal since it is faster then my old duron 750. But if anyone knows how please give me the low down. Damn maybe I should of went with the TB 1.1. DOH.

Well I did manage to up the FSB without any problems. Just can't change the multipler. But Hey it's at 1430 now better than nothing.

 

[ChevalierMalFet]

Unlocking XP 2000 (Palomino)

I am planning to use the defogger kit and superglue method to unlock my CPU. Haven't done this before, so had a quick question. Since the bridges connecting or touching is a very bad thing, would it make sense to put a small line of the super glue in between each of the lines of conductive material. I was just thinking that having a layer of non conduvtive material in between would help. Any thoughts?

 

[recbo]

what about superglue BETWEEN L1 contacts?

The only way that would make sense is if
you could put something between the
contacts forming a high enough ridge
that you could go back over it and scrape
the bleeding conductive material and
some of the ridge material off to make
a separation.

Of course you'd first need to reverse
mask the L1 contacts so your superglue
wouldn't mask them and prevent the
conductor substance from contacting
them.

I was actually considering some form
of reverse masking process today,
first mask L1 rows, then fill laser
pits, then mask L1 pairs, and lay
down some masking substance
between them, then mask and
paint with conductive silver pen
as usual, then scrape the other
stuff off to make sure. If the
reverse masking and masking
ridge was good enough you
could dispense with tape and
just paint the whole L1 sloppily,
then grind down the ridges. I
don't know if superglue would
be the ideal ridge material.

I think it's more logical to just do
superglue on the laser pits, cut
that down with razorblade, mask
L1 pairs with thin scotch tape,
paint with silver lacquer i.e.
silver circuit pen, take a good
look with magnifier, try it out
with a heatsink and fan setup,
if it works then silver epoxy on
a waterblock. Light sanding
should be OK if it doesn't work,
then do it again.

So, if a Phoenix BIOS repeats a
single beep over and over in a
loop, does that mean the L1
job is bad?

-Bob

 

[tainice]

A question, if artic silver is an excellent conductor, why no one uses it to unlock their amd chips?

 

[recbo]

Arctic Silver conductive compound and epoxy are
the best conductive compounds for conducting
HEAT, not electricity. I'm sure I got some on my
nvidia ram contacts and was really feeling low
when I booted up but there wasn't any electrical
short.

-Bob

 

[tainice]

that'z what i though of, cuz i never one of my cards get shorted out by AS... i mean i have made a mess of them.

 

[recbo]

xp1600 at 1900 means mhz or xp1900+?

When people say they're running their xp1600
as or at 1900, do they mean mhz or as an
xp1900?

I have a water-cooled xp1900 unlocked and
though it never gets much over 50C at any
setting, I can't get it to run faster than
either XP2000+ which is FSB 133 multiplier
12.5, or FSB 136 multiplier 12, even with
all the highest voltages for core and ddr.
My ddr is PC2700 tested Samsung on an
Abit KR7A RAID mboard. Either config
that works is about 1.6Gz. So if people
mean xp1900 at anything over 1650
mhz I'm amazed. likewise by xp1600
at 1900 mhz!

-Bob

 

[Emericana]

ppl who are saying xp1600 at 1900 generally mean 1900mhz. the new 1600's overclock VERY well (agoia/aroia core steppings)

 

[recbo]

xp1600 agoia,aroia pc3200 9.5x183 1.8v

That's making overclocking look worthwhile at this
stage of development, in terms of time and cost.

xp1900 pc2100 12x136 1.775v 1.6Ghz not so
appealing, not bad though for a first experience
with water-cooling. I could swap in new stuff
easily since most of the work had to do with
the box. It's just strange to think of replacing
an XP1900 with XP1600 to gain 300 mhz!

 

[kyleboy77]

I would reaily like to unlock my 2100+ but no one is saying how, and what makes it so much harder to unlock a 2100+ compared to like a 1600+,

 

[Hubert]

How I did it

I got this way for you, to unlock it without a multimeter, and still be sure you succeed.
You have to do it he same way they did at tomshardware.com, but I would rather use the Bison Electro PCB painter. Its not that smooth that silver laquer is, so the tomshardware.com thing separating the L1 bidges with scotch tape will not work. Believe me, I've tried.
You simply have to fill the lasermade gaps between the L1 bridges with some non conductive material, then separate with scothch tape a square containing all the L1 bridges, and paint them.
After it dries, just eliminate the surplus paint with some sharp object, - I used a cutter - between the bridges, and you are done !
Be sure to leave no actual link between the bridges, and also not to scracth visibly the ceramic surface of the processor, 'cos you may loose your warranty !

One more thing: a magnifiing lense is great help during " surgery".

 

[bdf24]

I unlocked my 1600+ about 6 month's ago or more. I only partially succeeded and only had the option of using a couple multipliers. 10.5, and 11.5 is all that worked. I just left it and ran it at 11.5 figuring that was good enough for now. Well about 2 week's ago I decided to try different multipliers just to see if anything changed. And it did. I'm able to use every multiplier now. I've read about this happening to other's but I did'nt think it would to me. I'm glad it did though