This PSU work with this motherboard?

[HankB]

Old stuff. PSU dates to 2004. Line item description from Newegg is "OCZ PowerStream OCZ420ADJ 420W ATX, BTX, SATA, P4 and EPS12V Power Supply" but the product page no longer exists. It looks like this one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104152

Markings on the PSU are:



Motherboard is the Supermicro 8XSIL (Intel 1156 socket) Releae date for the manual is August 20, 2013. (http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon3000/3400/X8SIL.cfm?IPMI=N)

The manual states "It is strongly recommended that you use a high quality power supply that meets ATX12V standard power supply Specification 1.1 or above." According to Wikipedia ATX12V 1.1 came out on 2000 so I would think that this PSU would meet that standard.

I get a green power LED on the motherboard and couple spins on the CPU fan but no further activity.

Thanks!

Edit: I swappd in a more recent PSU - a PC Power and Cooling S61EPS (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703005) and it does work. Now my question is if the other PSU is malfunctioning or is simply not compatible with this motherboard. This PSU was purchased mid 2007 so it is not as old.

 

[don256us]

My money is on a defective power supply. As soon as you mentioned the green light and a few turns of the fan, I felt sure that this is the case. When you said another power supply works, that sealed the deal for me.

 

[RollingThunder]

Hank,

Those OCZ Powerstreams had issues.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

PSU is from '04, can it.

 

[HankB]

Thanks all for the replies. I've agree with the conclusion.

I also tried the old PSU with another mobo and it had the same results.

610 Watts is a bit more than I wanted. At present the KillaWatt is reporting 40W during a Linux install but I know it will go higher with all cores cranked. Memtest86+ drives it up to about 110W. And I plan to add more drives.

thanks,
hank

 

[don256us]

Keep in mind that 610 watts is what it can dole out. *can*. The system will only draw the wattage that it needs and nothing more. The power supply that you select for any given system is the amount that the system needs plus a buffer of something like 20% or something. I can't remember the general rule but it is similar to what I just wrote. Power supplies tend to work best around the 50-60% load but that rule changes from PSU to PSU depending on how it was engineered.

 

[HankB]

Keep in mind that 610 watts is what it can dole out. *can*. The system will only draw the wattage that it needs and nothing more. ...

And I presume that the rating is on delivered power and not what is used at the wall outlet.

At the moment with the system idle it is using 37 Watts (at the wall outlet) according to my KILL A WATT. Given a best case efficiency of 80% (and probably much less at that part of the range) it is delivering 30 Watts. That's about 5% of load and may not even be in a range where it performs well. With 4 Rosetta threads running (all my cooling can manage) it is using 123 Watts. That's about 15% of capacity. I'll be adding some drives but don't expect to get past 20 or 25% of capacity. And I normally won't be crunching. This is my file server and is substantially idle.

thanks,
hank

 

[RJ88]

Many PSU's worked better and last longer at that 40-60% duty and pulling from...Id get a new unit honestly it is from 04' even lower tier ones are okay with like Teapo's and like jamicon, find some good chemicon's or rubycon's and see if you'll have a real runner for awhile etc.

 

[HankB]

Many PSU's worked better and last longer at that 40-60% duty and pulling from...Id get a new unit honestly it is from 04' ...

I'm pretty sure the one I bought in '04 is dead. Tried it with two motherboards and it wouldn't turn on with either. The PC Power and Cooling unit is about ten years old and has always run below 50% and still seems to be going strong. Were I to replace it, I'd still go with a quality unit. That's not one of the places where I want to cheap out.

thanks,
hank

 

[don256us]

Lately I've been able to afford 80+ gold units. For my money, the build quality needed to achieve the power efficiency of 80+ gold is worth it. Since I live in a heat sensitive environment (read: my wife and I prefer the house to be cool rather than warm), 80+ gold/platinum keeps my electric bill low and the heat to a minimum.

That remonds me, the wife mentioned that the power supply on her rarely used desktop needs to be replaced.

 

[RJ88]

Lately I've been able to afford 80+ gold units. For my money, the build quality needed to achieve the power efficiency of 80+ gold is worth it. Since I live in a heat sensitive environment (read: my wife and I prefer the house to be cool rather than warm), 80+ gold/platinum keeps my electric bill low and the heat to a minimum.

That remonds me, the wife mentioned that the power supply on her rarely used desktop needs to be replaced.

Besides that their built super well...top tier caps and their all regulated the best on the rails and everything else suppression and just overall the idea of uninterruptible...but whatever it is it's good and passes the test hell if you can get 3-5 years out of one some real hours logged...it was only a few lower end ones and pulling way too close to rated max hard on them and go bad and just not regulated well some that don't even last a year drop to 11v... bad caps increasing ESR and inductance is a problem why every is short leaded well suppose to be.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

An 80+ certification has nothing to do with quality.

 

[don256us]

An 80+ certification has nothing to do with quality.

You are correct in that 80+ certification does not certify the quality of the unit itself. My argument is that the build quality needed to achieve 80+ will lend itself to general quality. Not a direct link.