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Trying to take my x2 5000+ black edition to the next level

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hannedog

New Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Hi all,

This is my first post here; I figure it was about time I got some additional opinions. I'm relatively inexperienced with overclocking, although, with a Bachelors of Science in Computer Science and a system builder I do have solid ground with most of the theoretical ideas and terminologies.

Anyway, I'm a bit disappointed with what I've been able to do so far with Athlon 64 x2 5000+ Black Edition. My system specs can be found here: http://www.evga.com/community/ModsRigs/comment.asp?sysid=875

You can also see the layout of the cabling I have on the system... which isn't ideal, but, there isn't much of an alternative given the card reader/DVD drives I have taking up all the space in my case. I also have a side 80mm fan on the case cover. The airflow of the case is what you'd expect: intake at the front, exhaust at the rear. The Freezer 64 Pro blows towards the rear exhaust. The only thing that may seem a bit weird is my side fan (which blows just about behind the cpu) is actually being used as intake as opposed to exhaust. The main reason is that the PSU sucks in air from below the unit, so that keeps the air a little more fresh for the PSU.

From everything I've read up on my cpu, it seems I should be able to get it to OC to 3.2 GHz without much of a fuss. 3.2 would be a nice number for me, to keep that nice divider and memory speed at 800 MHz (the memory is running at 2.05v btw).

Currently, I have it OC'd at 2.8 GHz, which is stable and fine with p95, but, I think I'm entitled to more. That said, I think I'm going to have to look into my cooling solution to go any further, because right now things would probably get too hot regardless. Currently my CPU runs between 39-42 C at idle, 42-45 under "normal" load, and eventually makes it way up to 55 C under "prime95" load for quite some time. Note that these temps are with the cover on. So, one of the questions I had would be if people had recommendations on a better cooler for my system.

I realize I could try and lap my heatsink, but, I think I'm going to have to look at something new altogether, since, right now my Muskin memory just barely won't work in the first slot next to the cpu since the memory heatsink would just barely make contact with the freezer 64 fan. It's unfortunate that the dimm slots are so close to the CPU on this evga board. So, question #1 is thus: any good recommendations for a heatsink replacement that will lower temps and work with my board such that it will leave all memory slots available?

The second question relates to the temp monitoring I'm doing while in OS. Right now, with the 590 NVIDIA chipset, the only program that I can use that reports semi-reliable temperatures is the NVIDIA system tools. Unfortunately, while running the program, only the first sample from the CPU is reported accurately (the next sample makes the CPU jump to 23000+ C or some crazy number... I have no idea why... it does this for both XP and Vista). To work around it I have to shut the monitor off then turn it back on, and then quickly check it. Question #2 is thus: Does anybody know of a good temp monitoring program that works with the NVIDIA 590 SLI chipset? (I've tried all the standard stuff, such as TempMon, and unless some recent changes (in the last 5 months) fixed things, I just don't have that reliable of a solution I guess).

Anyway, on to the overclock! I tried to get to 3.2 GHz the simple way with the BE, that is, simply increasing the multiplier and increasing the voltage slightly.

The first thing I should mention is that CPU-Z has always reported what I would consider to be abnormal voltage levels. The x2 5000 should run at 1.35v stock, however, CPU-Z typically reports that the voltage being fed to the CPU is about .1v less than what it's set at (so, when it's set at 1.35v in the BIOS, cpu-z reports around 1.25v, at 1.45v BIOS - 1.35v cpu-z, etc.) When under load the voltage will go up slightly, around .025v or so. The more load the more the voltage will pick up (so, prime95 will make the voltage get up to 1.280v under 1.35v setting). So, I don't know what to make of that.

But, when I increased the multiplier to 16x, and set the voltage to 1.40v, everything booted fine, but, Prime95 immediately failed, giving illegal sumout errors. I deduced that this was due to lack of power being fed to the CPU. Again, cpu-z reported about .1v less than what I had set it at. So, naturally, I thought that I should increase the voltage more.

I tried increasing the voltage in the smallest increments from 1.4v, and each time Prime95 got a little further before erroring out. At 1.475v, Prime95 made it for about 2 minutes before erroring out. But, I knew at this point that my voltage would be much too high for the cooling solution I had.

Finally at about 1.5v things seemed to stabalize with Prime95. But, the temps were much too hot now, it didn't take long for the CPU temp (as reported by NVIDIA system tools anyway) to reach 69 C at which point I promptly shut prime95 off.

Surprisingly, throughout all the testing I never had a system lockup/freeze/crash, nor ever had an issue posting. But, in any regard, the results were disappointing nonetheless.

At this point, I don't know what route I should really take next. I think I want to improve my cooling solution first. But, even if I were to do so, it seems like things aren't what they should be regardless.

So, my final question #3 is: what would you recommend I do at this point? Do you think there could be a potential motherboard/PSU issue going on with the weird under-voltages?

I don't think anything is wrong with the PSU as the thing seems to run everything else absolutely fine, and it's a quality PSU.

I guess I could try messing around with the FSB and try things down that route, but, I was hoping to avoid that messiness in that regard. But, if someone else has an idea that might be somthing I'm missing, well, that's why I'm posting here.

Wow, that got pretty long! Sorry for the long post, thanks for taking the time to read (if you did), and any comments/insights/suggestions of any kind would be most appreciated!
 
I wouldn't blame the cpu for it first.

Saw many people with G2s doing 3G at stock V, I can even undervolt mine for that speed on a lowly 4200+.
Seems to me the evga board is far from the best choice, add a hot nvidia chipset with that layout and in case of bad airflow that might not even be a bad result what you have.
It undervolts heavily what you have to compensate for and I wonder how hot those bare PWMs could get. If too hot those could result in drops spikes in V and easily end a P95run or worse.

The cpu socket is far from the exhaust fan so the temps aren't only the fault of the cpu cooler, hot air could get trapped inside the case changing the cpu cooler won't solve that problem. With that hot hardware I would try to improve case airflow first.

To use all memory slots on that board I would probably recommend the Thermalright SI128SE. Depending on whose results you trust it can get close to a single fan U120Ex in cooling performance while most ram will fit under it and even be cooled by it.

You could also try to OC the ram at 1000-1100 depending on the apps it might make up for a 200Mhz on your cpu.
 
Thanks for the response.

On the subject of the motherboard, typically it reports around 45-47 C for the "System" and around 51-53 C on the chipset. I don't know what would be "ideal" in that regard, but, it doesn't seem too bad to me. In general these temperatures don't vary much under load, although, obviously, if the whole case is getting hotter these temps will rise with it.

The airflow isn't the greatest, simply because I'm limited by the size of my case, however, I do have some pretty nice Scythe fans in there that are really moving quite a bit of air. Note that the pictures are outdated -- the front intake fan has been replaced, and supposeldy moves over 70 CFM of air. But in any respect, the biggest problem is that two 8800 GTSs simply restrict a lot of air from moving around.

Also, I don't know if you noticed, but the AC Freezer 64 Pro does have a fan on the side of the heatsink (closest to the RAM) that blows toward the exhaust fan. But, I agree, that upper portion of my case would be susceptible towards getting hot air trapped.

As for your comment, "It undervolts heavily what you have to compensate for and I wonder how hot those bare PWMs could get." -- first off, all I know that PWM stands for is Pulse-Width Modulation... are you talking about some kind of controller on the MB? Or what exactly are you referring to? What exactly are you thinking could be "too hot", and how could I go about investigating that (other than simply opening my case up and blowing my large fan towards its opening? :p)

The board has a memory speed cap at DDR2-800 MHz, so as far as I know the memory wouldn't support OCing of any kind.

I did a little searching on the heatsink you suggested, it seems nice, and I like the fact that you can put a 120mm fan on it. However, they don't really seem to be in stock anywhere (I wonder if Thermalright is going out of business? All of their products are out of stock at newegg). There was only one store I could find that had it (xoxide or something I've never heard of). It's a bit pricey, but, eventually I'd like to get something different so that I can get 8 GB of mushkin going.
 
First off no matter what fan you stick in the front bottom of your case, you will not get hardely any air flow cause the hdd cage is blocking most if not all of the airflow. You have your dvd drives very far apart and for what reason idk, shove them suckers up next to one another at the top of your case, then in the 3 slots left, if those are mesh covers, then stick another 120mm fan up there for intake. I think the main problem with your case is the lack of air intake. Have you tried running with the side panel off and seeing what your temps are? I bet they are about 10c or more lower which means you dont have adequate case cooling.

The cooler you have is perfectly capable of overclocking that chip of yours to 3.2ghz+ and keep it under 50c at load, just it cant do its job when your case is so hot. You really need to clean up them wires that are blocking your precious airflow as well.

PWM are the power voltage regulators that are on your board to the left of the cpu socket, they are the black chips with 3 legs, two on the mobo, one in the air. It is good that your side panel fan is blowing on them. I would also check for a bios update to see if maybe a new bios will fix the voltage reading issues you are having. I would try using speedfan to monitor your temps, that and hardware monitor.
 
Thanks for the response.

I realize that there are things I can do to improve the case airflow and temperatures, however, do you really think that Prime95 erroring out IMMEDIATELY at 3.2 GHz (when case temps are only around 52 C, and CPU temp is only around 45 C roughly idle) is caused by a temperature issue?

As for the DVD players, the best solution would be to just get rid of the second player. It's an old PATA drive, and it has to be on the bottom slot for the IDE cable to have enough slack (the cable is also connected to a PATA 160 GB hard drive).

As for the remaining slots, I don't think it would be possible to install a fan there in any reasonable fashion. You can see the side of the case in the pictures; even if you were able to fit a fan in that area somehow, there'd be no way to install it properly, it would just kind of have to sit there. Which, might work for cooling purposes, but in all practicality I just don't think it's a viable solution. Unless someone has a good idea on how to install it in there.

The BIOS is the most current, and will be the most current official BIOS, ever. It's no longer supported by EVGA, so, what's in there is what's it's going to be. I also forgot to mention that in the BIOS, it reports the voltages at or even above the level it's set at (unlike CPU-Z, which reports it generally to be about .1v less).

I've tried using SpeedFan and hardware monitor in the past, and unless they've fixed some things recently, they simply just don't work with my mobo :(. SpeedFan if I recall correctly reported negative temperatures, and hardware mon had unusually low (obviously inaccurate) temps. The Nvidia System Tools is the only thing that seems remotely accurate.
 
Thanks for the response.

I realize that there are things I can do to improve the case airflow and temperatures, however, do you really think that Prime95 erroring out IMMEDIATELY at 3.2 GHz (when case temps are only around 52 C, and CPU temp is only around 45 C roughly idle) is caused by a temperature issue?

As for the DVD players, the best solution would be to just get rid of the second player. It's an old PATA drive, and it has to be on the bottom slot for the IDE cable to have enough slack (the cable is also connected to a PATA 160 GB hard drive).

As for the remaining slots, I don't think it would be possible to install a fan there in any reasonable fashion. You can see the side of the case in the pictures; even if you were able to fit a fan in that area somehow, there'd be no way to install it properly, it would just kind of have to sit there. Which, might work for cooling purposes, but in all practicality I just don't think it's a viable solution. Unless someone has a good idea on how to install it in there.

The BIOS is the most current, and will be the most current official BIOS, ever. It's no longer supported by EVGA, so, what's in there is what's it's going to be. I also forgot to mention that in the BIOS, it reports the voltages at or even above the level it's set at (unlike CPU-Z, which reports it generally to be about .1v less).

I've tried using SpeedFan and hardware monitor in the past, and unless they've fixed some things recently, they simply just don't work with my mobo :(. SpeedFan if I recall correctly reported negative temperatures, and hardware mon had unusually low (obviously inaccurate) temps. The Nvidia System Tools is the only thing that seems remotely accurate.

What are you using to montor temps? You do realize that the Brisbanes temp sensors do not read the correct temps. Typically they read 18-20C lower than actual temps. If you are not taking this into consideration, your Prime temps reading of 45C just became 63C. I use Hardware Monitor to check temps and have found that TMPIN2 corresponds with the monitoring software that came with my Biostar MB.

As far as voltage problems with CPUz, you might find answers here http://forum.canardpc.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74

In response to case cooling and cable management, I would get rid of the IDE burner. Lower the top burner 1 slot so I would have a place to store unused cables from the PSU (cable management) and buy this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...ooler_-_Black_SCKB-1000_BK.html?tl=g40c18s234 The fan in this cooler only runs 800 RPM (I have one in my NZXT Whisper) so I changed it to Scythe Juni @ 105 cfm and have no problems with it. This solution might help keep your video cards fed cooler air and lower temps.
 
case temps at 52c are WAY to hot. And to affix a 120mm fan which is possible, you use these ingenious little things called tie wraps. Basically with your system, you are starving for air intake which is your whole problem. I have put the AC Freezer 64 Pro on my work rig which has a 125w 6000+ cpu that can hit 3.4ghz 35c idle and without breaking 55c at full prime95 load for 24hrs. I was stress testing the box and did some ocing just for fun, its back at stock. Changing coolers isnt going to help you if you cannot get fresh cool air to your cpu cooler. Those dual gpus require alot of air to keep them cool, and your cpu needs cool air to. You might just want to add another side panel fan down to blow air to the vid cards as well.

Get your case working right, and if that doesnt help, then you have a bad mount, and will need to pull your cooler off, scrape off the thermal pad that came with it, clean both the cpu and heatsink with as pure isopropyl alcohol as you can (99% is best, but multiple wipes with 70% can be used if needed). Be sure to use a coffee filter for the final cleaning before you go putting new thermal paste on the cpu since it is lint free.

If you really want to try something, pull that side panel off and take out one of your gfx cards and see what your temps are. You can try putting a big fan blowing into the side of your case to. Once your case temps are down to around 30-40c i bet you that cpu will handle your oc way better. If this is the case then your problem all along is crappy airflow.
 
That's what I would try, first - pull off the side panel and put a room fan blowing into your case. It's the only good way to see if the case temps are the problem, and cheap to check as well. :) In my experience with Brisbanes you shouldn't have that much of an issue with temps even with an average cooler so I'd guess the general consensus is right - your case is too hot ...
 
What are you using to montor temps? You do realize that the Brisbanes temp sensors do not read the correct temps. Typically they read 18-20C lower than actual temps. If you are not taking this into consideration, your Prime temps reading of 45C just became 63C. I use Hardware Monitor to check temps and have found that TMPIN2 corresponds with the monitoring software that came with my Biostar MB.

As far as voltage problems with CPUz, you might find answers here http://forum.canardpc.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74

In response to case cooling and cable management, I would get rid of the IDE burner. Lower the top burner 1 slot so I would have a place to store unused cables from the PSU (cable management) and buy this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...ooler_-_Black_SCKB-1000_BK.html?tl=g40c18s234 The fan in this cooler only runs 800 RPM (I have one in my NZXT Whisper) so I changed it to Scythe Juni @ 105 cfm and have no problems with it. This solution might help keep your video cards fed cooler air and lower temps.

Thanks for the reponses guys!

First off, as for the CPU temps, as I said in an earlier post, I was getting a reading of 69 C after doing a Prime95 test at 1.5v (after which I promptly turned the test off). And the OS has never froze/crashed while ocing. So, considering that I think it's pretty much impossible for the brisbane to reach 85+ C, if anything the temp reading was inaccurate in the other direction.

Also, was the fan you provided in the link sold out when you sent it to me? (It is now...)

As for the mounting, DragoXT, tie wraps work IF you can get the fan in the correct spot, however, I'm not so certain that such a fan would fit... I'll just have to give it another look (I won't have access to the computer till after the weekend).

Finally, I did want to say that, in general, the pictures of my case looks the cable management worse than it really is perhaps. I think I will take the advice of getting rid of the second DVD drive (since I'm adequately pleased with the performance of my Samsung now...), and putting it in the second slot so as to put the cables up top more. However, most of the cables currently are inbetween the two DVD players the way it is, and the ones that you can see that aren't are mostly on the open case side (in other words, they really aren't blocking the path of the intake fan, although it is hard to see that in the picture due to the lack of depth from the angle of the picture).

But, thanks again for the advice. I wasn't convinced that tempertatures could be causing an immediate Prime95 failure (considering the temps reported), so I will definitely try opening the case up and blowing a room fan on it and see what happens. I'll let you know how it goes sometime after this weekend. Thanks again! :clap:
 
i would take the above comment about "all brisbanes have a temp sensor bug" with a grain of salt because not all of them do and frankly if it did and that 69C was 89C you would probally have some magic smoke, which aparently you dont which is good.

just thought i would throw that out there. it also could be the other way arround (49C in reality) but judging from your other temps i doubt it
 
i would take the above comment about "all brisbanes have a temp sensor bug" with a grain of salt because not all of them do and frankly if it did and that 69C was 89C you would probally have some magic smoke, which aparently you dont which is good.

just thought i would throw that out there. it also could be the other way arround (49C in reality) but judging from your other temps i doubt it

My Bad. I should have been more careful with my wording. I was referring to this... http://www.alcpu.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=374 ...
Anyway I'm sorry for a misleading post ... just trying to help
 
Well his CPU temp might not be correct due to the brisbanes having temp sensor issues on some of their chips, but his case temps at 52c is really bad. Some chipsets can get that hot without good airflow, and thats not to bad, the NF4's did this alot cause of where they were placed which normally got blocked by a vid card. If your case is 52c that means your case temps are in excess of 125F, and that means that very hot air is being used to try and cool your components. The whole premise of cooling is that the temp of the air, water, or whatever is cooler than the heat put out by the device heating up a heat sink. The hotter the air the hotter the component will get, which is why with air cooling, good airflow in your case is so important. You need plenty of air coming in that is cooler than the hot air being pushed out.
 
Well his CPU temp might not be correct due to the brisbanes having temp sensor issues on some of their chips, but his case temps at 52c is really bad. Some chipsets can get that hot without good airflow, and thats not to bad, the NF4's did this alot cause of where they were placed which normally got blocked by a vid card. If your case is 52c that means your case temps are in excess of 125F, and that means that very hot air is being used to try and cool your components. The whole premise of cooling is that the temp of the air, water, or whatever is cooler than the heat put out by the device heating up a heat sink. The hotter the air the hotter the component will get, which is why with air cooling, good airflow in your case is so important. You need plenty of air coming in that is cooler than the hot air being pushed out.

Agreed. And if he is not aware of the temp sensor issue, he may not think that cooling is the issue here.
 
up the voltage on it till you get to around 2.8 then using the multiplier take it to 3.0ghz
amd over-volted the 5000+ to get the 5400+
so i have an over volted 5000+
mines running cool at 3.2ghz
but without amd's over voltage expertise... i wouldnt take the extra 200mhz...
 
Ok, well, I got to test things out last night, and the results are an improvement, but we're not quite there yet.

First off, simply removing the case cover did remove temps of the chipset and board about 10 C. So, I tried upping the voltage to 1.4v and then again increased the multiplier to 16x (again, I had been running stock 1.35v and 14x multiplier stably).

When I ran Prime95, it didn't immediately get illegal sumout. After about 2 minutes it did. So, I put a room fan right up next to the case (probably about 250 mm), and since the center of the fan lies just below the center of the cpu fan when standing upright, I tilted the fan slightly upward to blow pretty much straight at the opening where the cpu fan gets its intake from. This decreased temps significantly again.

I increased the voltage to 1.425v, and tried Prime95 again. This time, the test made it about 10 minutes before illegal sumout. The max CPU temp fluctuated between 56 and 57 C. I tinkered around with the room fan, pointed it downward a little more (it now points at the area just below the RAM. This actually decreased temps quite a bit (perhaps air is spreadly more uniformly inside the case now).

With this fan adjustment, the CPU now idles between 33-35 C, under moderate load it stays around 40 C. The "System" temp reads between 27-28 C, and the Nforce temp reads steadily at 22 C. (The GPUs temps decreased quite a bit, and now read 50 and 48 C respectively... a fairly large improvement).

So, I ran Prime95 again, only changing the direction of the room fan slightly as mentioned above. Now, the max temp (as far as I could tell since I eventually went to bed) fluctuated between 48-49 C (oh btw 1. I've been using p64 as I'm using Vista 64, 2. I've been choosing the second torture test option, in-place large FFTs). I eventually went to bed with the test still running.

When I woke up, thread #1 had failed after 5 hours and 45 minutes, again from illegal sumout due to rounding error of 0.5. Obviously with only one thread going at that point the other one is probably going to continue just fine, and it was.

So, nearly 6 hours.... hmm, that's maybe a tough line to draw things on. I could try and bump up the voltage again to 1.45v, but, should I have to?

The other concern is that it's going to be mighty hard to get a "realistic" cooling scenario (i.e. one with a side cover on), that does as good a job as it does now with with the cover off and a large room fan blowing on hi at it. And evidently it needs this insane amount of cooling.

What are everyone's thoughts now as to how to procede? Also, as for getting a heatsink replacement (one that allows me to use all 4 DIMM slots), Kuroimaho suggested the Thermalright SI128SE (which as far as I could tell is nearly phased out everywhere), does anyone else have any other suggestions?
 
What are everyone's thoughts now as to how to procede? Also, as for getting a heatsink replacement (one that allows me to use all 4 DIMM slots), Kuroimaho suggested the Thermalright SI128SE (which as far as I could tell is nearly phased out everywhere), does anyone else have any other suggestions?
Crank the volts just a hair more.

If you really need four open RAM slots this should keep your temps down:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2colicoki.html :D


But seriously, a couple of well-placed Delta's could probably equal the room fan cooling but they'll be really loud ... ;)
 
Well im glad you found out that you have an airflow problem. The other problem you might have is a bad mount of your heatsink, or the IHS not being seated properly. Before you go buying a new cooler, if you have some thermal paste to reapply, pull your cooler off, clean its base and the cpu with some high purity isopropyl alcohol several times, and use a coffee filter as a lint free cloth to make sure no dust gets on the chip or the bottom of the heatsink before you remount. See if a new mounting does better. It might take several tries, and remember you want enough TIM to fill the microvalleys between the surfaces, but not to much as to impeed transfer of heat. Do all of this with that room fan blowing in your case, and if you get a better mount your temps should drop a good bit.

For your case cooling, move that hard drive to another bay and take that hard drive cage assembly out it is blocking way to much intake. If the hard drive dont fit in one of the other 3.5 bays, there are plenty of cheapo hard drive coolers that you can find and just use the bracket to get a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter so you can put your hdd in a 5.25 bay. Clean those wires up, try running them around the back of your case, drop your cd drive down and shove some above it for safe keeping. If you can put in another 120mm fan as intake in your lower 5.25 bays do so, and if your adventrous put in a top fan blowing out of the case to remove the hot air that can collect in that pocket above your mobo and behind your psu.

Also for your cpu fan, check in the bios and see what kind of settings there are for the rpm speed of the fan on the mobo, usually there are 3 options, auto, voltage, or PWM. Find out which one has the highest default rpm and use that one as that will help and the fan will not be loud at all.
 
I leave one 5-1/4 cover off and place a 90-92mm fan in the cage between the CDR and HD cage blowing right at the CPU. I also cut and fit rigid plastc sheets from packing around the fan to for a duct from the case front to the fan. in some cases I just tape a CD case cover over the fan. This reduces air cycling due to case preassure. One of the problems with a hot case is the Caps and MOS fets on the MOBO and PSU loose ability to operate efficiently causing the voltage to flutter and that kills OC.
 
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