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Upgrade from old H60 for i9 9900ks

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Calv

New Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2019
Hi all, hoping you may be able to help with some overheating issues I'm experiencing.
I recently upgraded my CPU from an i5 8400 to i9 9900ks, and I'm finding that as soon as the number of active cores increases the CPU temp is spiking. At full load with certain games or XTU stress tests, I'm seeing the temp sit at 87c in AISuite and 98-100c in XTU.
temps.png

I'm currently using a 7-year-old H60, with the radiator/fan attached to the top of my case. The fan is set up to push the air out of my case, and the only way I can attach the radiator is underneath the fan so air is being pulled through it.

I have fans on the front and side of the case pulling air in. I've considered moving the radiator to the side of the case, but when I tried this, something got screwed up resulting in the pump reporting 9000rpm but not actually doing anything and the CPU immediately spiking. So, I'm reluctant to try that again.
I've also tried re-applying thermal paste and re-seating the pump without any noticeable difference.


So, I'm now wondering whether I need to look at upgrading the cooler to a h100/115, switch to air cooler like a Noctua, or something else.

Thoughts?
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
A H60 wont cut it, yep. I'd go high end air or at least a 2x120mm radiator.

You are hitting both power and thermal limits causing the cpu to throttle.
 

MaddMutt

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
I'm currently using a 7-year-old H60, with the radiator/fan attached to the top of my case. The fan is set up to push the air out of my case, and the only way I can attach the radiator is underneath the fan so air is being pulled through it.

I have fans on the front and side of the case pulling air in. I've considered moving the radiator to the side of the case, but when I tried this, something got screwed up resulting in the pump reporting 9000rpm but not actually doing anything and the CPU immediately spiking. So, I'm reluctant to try that again.
I've also tried re-applying thermal paste and re-seating the pump without any noticeable difference.


So, I'm now wondering whether I need to look at upgrading the cooler to a h100/115, switch to air cooler like a Noctua, or something else.

Thoughts?

AIO's have gotten better since the OLD - H50/H60/H70 - Series BUT They will still end up drying out. The new H100/H115 have a full 5 years warranty. Having got more than 3yrs from your H60, you have gotten your money's worth from it. It's now time to look for a new AIO. If the pump still works - you can cut the tubing and make your own custom loop. I did this with my H50. I went to Lowes and bought 1/4" tubing {the H60 may use a different size} ($3~$5), Hose Clamps (~$3), and a disposable Locking Bowl {to use as a reservoir } from my local food store ($2~$10). If you are will to try it out $20~$30 or $100 for a new AIO.
 

trents

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
MM, would you attach a pic of the "disposable locking bowl"? Intriguing but I'm having trouble picturing it and how you would attach tubing securely in such a way as to make it leak proof.
 

freeagent

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2004
Location
Winnipeg!
I vote for Le Grand Macho RT. As good or better than a D15., and 159mm tall, so should fit in many cases. Close runner up would be a True Spirit 140 Power. Also as good as a D15 or better, but is a bit tall, but if you have about 170mm it should fit :thup:
 

Zerileous

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
MaddMutt, even if he refills the AIO using some DIY hackery, the 120mm rad won't be enough for the KS.

Calv, what case are you using?
 
OP
C

Calv

New Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2019
Appreciate all the help guys.
Ended up grabbing an h100i, and with the exception of a small mounting issue due to me being lazy and attempting to use the h60 mounting plate and screws (when I removed the pump the thermal paste hadn't even touched the chip), I'm now running around 20c cooler.
 

MaddMutt

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
MaddMutt, even if he refills the AIO using some DIY hackery, the 120mm rad won't be enough for the KS.

Calv, what case are you using?

That is where the POWER of Delta fans come in :thup: CFM of 175~250 and db of 43~58 :)
 
OP
C

Calv

New Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2019
Good to hear... now, adjust your power limits so you are not throttling due to that. ;)

Sorted that, now I'm seeing the VRM thermal throttling during stress test.

Due to its location at the top of the motherboard, there isn't really any clearance between it and the h100 radiator/fans so I may just have to accept the occasional throttling from it.
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
Sorted that, now I'm seeing the VRM thermal throttling during stress test.

Due to its location at the top of the motherboard, there isn't really any clearance between it and the h100 radiator/fans so I may just have to accept the occasional throttling from it.
I would see if you can manage to point a fan at them or something. It isn't a great idea to be doing that.

Does it do that in regular use (like gaming)? Or just with stress tests?
 
OP
C

Calv

New Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2019
I would see if you can manage to point a fan at them or something. It isn't a great idea to be doing that.

Does it do that in regular use (like gaming)? Or just with stress tests?

With normal gaming it is never constant. Just the occasional blip.
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
With normal gaming it is never constant. Just the occasional blip.
That shouldn't be happening with normal gaming... I would do something about that sooner than later.

What motherboard and case do you have? (please create a signature and list your hardware - similar to Zerilious)
Inside the case, how many fans, where are they and what is their function (intake or exhaust)?

The general rule of thumb is to have the front/sides as intake and the top/rear be exhaust for good airFLOW.
 
OP
C

Calv

New Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2019
That shouldn't be happening with normal gaming... I would do something about that sooner than later.

What motherboard and case do you have? (please create a signature and list your hardware - similar to Zerilious)
Inside the case, how many fans, where are they and what is their function (intake or exhaust)?

The general rule of thumb is to have the front/sides as intake and the top/rear be exhaust for good airFLOW.

Added specs + links to sig.

I have 5 fans in the case, including the 2 fans for the H100i.
Intake:
1x 200mm front fan - 53.4CFM
1x 120mm side fan - 70.7 CFM

Exhaust:
1x 140mm rear fan - 59.48CFM
2x 120mm top fans (attached to the h100i radiator) - 75 CFM(each)


The addition of the extra fan for the new cooler has unbalanced the airflow. To try and compensate I've got the intake fans running constantly whilst the exhaust is only really spinning up under high temps.
I do have a spare 120mm fan from the h60 that I'm considering mounting as a second side fan too, but need to pick up a dust filter for it first.
 

MaddMutt

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
MM, would you attach a pic of the "disposable locking bowl"? Intriguing but I'm having trouble picturing it and how you would attach tubing securely in such a way as to make it leak proof.

My biggest problem that I had was the lid was not leak proof. The parts were picked up at Lowes/Home Depot and the RubberMaid bowl at local food store :) I haven't used it in about 2 years but it still works.
I used something like this to screw into the bowl and then sealed it https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gu...ct-Male-Connector-10-Pack-PP010822W/206495967. <- I bought the single pack for ~$1.50ea
The H50 CPU block/pump and rad used a 1/4" ID tubing so I grabbed some https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alpine-...n-Wall-PVC-Clear-Tubing-Coil-V0143P/206515251. <- 10ft cost ~$5
Pictures :thup:
P1010528.png P1010529.png P1010530.png
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
The addition of the extra fan for the new cooler has unbalanced the airflow. To try and compensate I've got the intake fans running constantly whilst the exhaust is only really spinning up under high temps.
I would leave the exhaust on even at lower temps...maybe even flip the rear fan to intake so it blows in the direct of the VRMs and gets exhausted by the fans/AIO on top.

That H370 board has few phases and a tiny heatsink on it... I would get some spot cooling to prevent the throttling and lower the temps.
 

trents

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
My biggest problem that I had was the lid was not leak proof. The parts were picked up at Lowes/Home Depot and the RubberMaid bowl at local food store :) I haven't used it in about 2 years but it still works.
I used something like this to screw into the bowl and then sealed it https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gu...ct-Male-Connector-10-Pack-PP010822W/206495967. <- I bought the single pack for ~$1.50ea
The H50 CPU block/pump and rad used a 1/4" ID tubing so I grabbed some https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alpine-...n-Wall-PVC-Clear-Tubing-Coil-V0143P/206515251. <- 10ft cost ~$5
Pictures :thup:
View attachment 208070View attachment 208071View attachment 208072

What kind of sealant did you use. There are few if any adhesives that I know of that hold on poly, at least for any length of time.
 

MaddMutt

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
IIRC - I used extra-strong Hot Glue + Some Super Glue + Clear Silicone - (https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Silicon...VjJ-zCh0AkgTyEAQYAiABEgIDEvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)

I drilled the hole to the size on the screw end. Those are actually screwed into the bowl to minimize leakage :) The bowl is "Hard Plastic" so that it would not collapse on it's self when - Drilling/Screwing/Pushing - tubing into container. IIRC I used a complete 6" stick of hot glue + a tube of super glue to stop it from leaking. The silicone was for when the tubing was connected.