Vmod on Abit KT7AR Last Qs before attempt...

[AMDGuy]

This weekend I'm going to attempt the VMOD on my Abit KT7AR. I'm so close to 1000Mhz on my Duron 650 that I can't stand it. I finally got the guts to do it.

I have some final questions. I don't think I'll need much voltage to get to 1000Mhz, maybe 1.91 or 1.95. Will I need the stage 2 mod to overcome the voltage protection? I seem to remember it doesn't kick in until around 2.05V but wasn't sure. I may do Stage 2 anyway since I have the iron out, but that's to be determined.

Also, which chips if any will need heatsinks after doing this? I assume the Voltage Regulator I'm soldering to will need one. Any others? Where can I find a h/s small enough to fit this chip? Radio Shack didn't have any the last time I was there.

Finally, on the trimmers there are three pins. Which ones are the pins that are used? Does it act like a Rheo in that the center and one side is used (side based on which direction you want to turn the trimmer for more or less volts)?


Thanks for any help!

 

[SickBoy]

I can't answer any questions but let me know how it turns out... when I get a new DDR mobo in a few months I'm going to try vmodding my KT7A-R.

If you're looking for HSF's, I think some of the overclocker shops may have video card/chipset coolers that can be cut down on a jigsaw or bandsaw or something. I just cut up the old socket 7 heatsinks that I have laying around.

SickBoy

 

[AMDGuy]

One last thing. Will the o'l superglue on the corner trick work to attach the heatsink to the Voltage regulator IC, or should I invest the $15 in Artic Silver Thermal Epoxy?

Thanks,

 

[AMDGuy]

I got the project box built for the trimmers last night. I used one of Radio Shack's smallest project boxes. It's about the size of a car alarm controller. Mounted both trimmers in it. All is going well so far. I'm gonna pick up some 18 or 22 ga solid core wire tonight.

I still need to know if a heatsink will be necessary on the voltage regulator IC. I only plan on going up .05 to .10 volts. Will this be enough to warrant a heatsink since the defaul full voltage of the IC is 1.85V?

Also I probed around on the board last night with my meter and found excellent connection points. I want to keep all wires on the mother board that way it not tied to the case through a "ground screw" or anything. That way the motherboard is still a standalone unit should I decide to move it to a new case later. I'll probably do a write up on it like I did for watercooling since there seem to be a lot of questions about it.

 

[Colin]

The IC won't need a HS. Put your finger on it while the computer is running. If you do want to pick up some small heatsinks try www.millisec.com and snag some Artic Silver Epoxy too.

From the back of your trimmers, the center pin goes to ground and use the left pin for the leads to the IC pins. This way when you dial up the voltage it will be clockwise and preserve the natural feel you have learned from consumer electronics.

 

[AMDGuy]

Colin (Jun 21, 2001 01:26 p.m.):
The IC won't need a HS. Put your finger on it while the computer is running. If you do want to pick up some small heatsinks try www.millisec.com and snag some Artic Silver Epoxy too.

From the back of your trimmers, the center pin goes to ground and use the left pin for the leads to the IC pins. This way when you dial up the voltage it will be clockwise and preserve the natural feel you have learned from consumer electronics.

Thanks. I used a meter to test the trimmers, and discovered what you've mentioned about using the left pins to keep it consistent with what I'm used to, i.e. turning clockwise increases volts to the CPU.

I downloaded the PDF spec sheet for the voltage regulator IC (HIP6301). I then called the manufacturer and spoke with an engineer. The engineer stated that it should not require a heatsink. Also from the specs I read that the "over-voltage protection" doesn't kick in until +15% which is 2.12V. That's probably higher than I'll ever need, so I may skip the stage II mod. The specs also state that the chip can handle 10 seconds of solder heat (300C) on any given pin. So if you're soldering directly on the chip be careful. I plan to use other locations on the board to avoid problems.

Thanks Colin for all the help.