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W/C HAF 932, Best way to do it??

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jmdixon85

Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2008
Location
Cumbria (UK)
Ok so I'm hoping to water cool in the very near future. Not looking for anything to expensive or complex and I'm just wanting to cool my Q9650 and an i7/i9 in the future :). I am wanting to use a 120.2 RAD and a drive bay REZ as I really like the look of them. The pump will be built into the REZ, this makes it a more simple setup as this will be my first W/C rig. I know the pump won't be as good as a serperate good one but I'm hoping it will do just to get my toes wet :). I've been looking at these two:

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/XSPC...-Reservoir-inc-12v-Pump-(Easy-to-Refill-Bleed)

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/XSPC-750-Clear-Bay-Reservoir-and-Pump-Blue-LED-fits-into-x2-525-Bays

Now as for the planning behind the setup. I've been thinking about 2 options. I'm not to good in paint but I hope you get the idea:

Option 1:

rad2.png

Option 2:

rad1.png

Not to sure which one to go with or what difference it will make (if any) but I think I would prefer the look of the case if the radiator was outside as in option 1. What do you guys think? :shrug:
 
Ditch the top 230mm fan. They are totally useless for watercooling. They may move some CFM, but the static pressure totally sucks as the flow is over a large area. Stick a 3 x 120 rad up top with 3 or 6 fans and call it a day. A 2 x 120 would barely cool an I7, yet alone an I7 with a GPU. The HAF easily fits a 3x 120 with absolutely zero modification other than removing the 230mm fan.

Most people would recommend pulling cooler air into the rad, but the HAF has good enough airflow, it doesn't matter that much to push case air through it. As you can see, you can easily fit a good triple up top like a PA 120.3 with at least 3 fans with room to spare. Six fans with a thicker rad may be tight but doable with 25mm fans. Don't think you could fit six 38mm fans.

001zk.jpg
 
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I'm thinking a 120.3 RAD would be a little over kill for my use. I see your point about the 230mm fan, suppose I could use two 120mm fans to better affect.
 
Better to overrad than underrad. If you want to upgrade later to an I7 or even to just add a GPU in with the current CPU, a 2 x 120 will not cut it. The differnce in price between a double or triple is minimal. With my setup, my I7 still hits the mid to high 60's at load at 4.2. What do you think temps would be with just a double? Fail.....
 
I have this case too. I agree with Daddyjaxx.... ditch the 230mm fan.

Get a 360mm radiator they cost like £20 more than a 240mm at most

Also that XSPC dual bay pump/res you linked to... XSPC has just brought out a Rev 2 of it... it has an improved pump and the front has a black faceplate with a water level view box.

Code:
[url]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XSPC-X2O-750-Dual-5-25-Bay-Reservoir-Pump-No-Barbs_W0QQitemZ330376332353QQcmdZViewItemQQptZComputing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR?hash=item4cebf6c441[/url]
 
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Thanks for the heads up on that Rev2 REZ Josh :thup:

Seems like a 120.3 is required for "future proofing" the W/C setup. I really like the Ximatek fans:

base_media


Are they suitable for mounting on a RAD tho?
 
Those fans should be fine... they push good air with low noise levels.

Those fans cannot be put on top of the case because the centre is raised above the screw holes... with the rad I suggest you could put the rad + 6 fans in push/pull internally.

It's now just a case of choosing your other components:

These websites are good:

Code:
[url]http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/[/url]

Code:
[url]http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/[/url]

I think you stated before you want to keep the costs low as it is your first setup... thats what I did.

Heres some low cost suggestions:

Radiator
Code:
[url]http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=41_110&products_id=557[/url]

CPU Block
Code:
[url]http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=113_38&products_id=1290[/url]

Xigmatek fans you like
Code:
[url]http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=75_174&products_id=1205[/url]
 
I don't have a RAD in the bottom, lol. That is a 120mm intake fan. Thanks for the shopping list Josh. Looking good, although I would like peoples opinion on the CPU block?
 
Since you are in the UK, the Thermochill rads are a better bang for the buck than the Swiftech rads. The PA 120.3 is almost double the price here than the UK. If they were that cheap here, the MCR320's would have a harder time attracting a crowd.

Don't know much about that block and the differences between it and it's big brother, but the more expensive HK is number one or number two under the Swiftech XT for I7's...depending upon whose reviews you read.
 
Since you are in the UK, the Thermochill rads are a better bang for the buck than the Swiftech rads. The PA 120.3 is almost double the price here than the UK. If they were that cheap here, the MCR320's would have a harder time attracting a crowd.

Don't know much about that block and the differences between it and it's big brother, but the more expensive HK is number one or number two under the Swiftech XT for I7's...depending upon whose reviews you read.

The thermochill is £20 more than the Swiftech (£15 some places).. then the XSPC RX is £2-5 more. In some places you can get the Feser Xchanger for the same price.

The reason I linked that block was because it is only £30... which is pretty cheap (about half the price of the Cu version)

The good blocks here are £50 - £60 they may be worth it though since most can be useed with LGA775/1156/1366.

The HK is Cu is 55-60 for LGA775... but if he gets an i7 he will just have to buy a new one.

EK Supremes are universal and cost about £40

The new Swiftech Apogee XT costs 55-60... if you can find it... im pretty sure its £57 at chilled-pc which is what im going to buy... that or the limited edition copper black and gold EK supreme

Prices are so messed up here it ridiculous.
 

I have the first of those two blocks from my old build and I must say it is very good for the price + it has as you mentioned compatibility with LGA775/1156/1366.

One thing to note about it though is that it is very restrictive... it will work very well in it's own loop (just CPU) but if you added a couple more blocks then you will likely encounter problems.

But since you want CPU only then it'll be fine.

The second one is a downgraded version of the first... slightly worse temps, lower profile... better price.

I want this one:

EK-Supreme_GOLD-front.jpg
 
Thanks for the quick info Josh. You've been a big help already :beer:

Looks like I will go with the first block I linked to and the RAD you linked to. And get that REZ you gave me the heads up on.

As for the coolant and tubing:

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=67_80&products_id=202

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=44_116_147&products_id=47

Will one litre be enough for my loop? I may get 2 anyway ;)

I am really looking foward to setting this up. I've always wanted to W/C my PC's but I've never really been happy with the spec of my machines. My money always went on faster parts but my current rig does everything I need it to so It's time to gey my feet wet :clap:

I will also be buying two of these to control the fans in my HAF:

fancontroller.jpg
 
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A litre od coolant will be plenty however most w/cers will tell you to stay away from Feser one... after a while the color can seperate and can cause build ups and block your loops flow.

The only coolant i would reccommend at the moment is thermochill EC6... the clear one is your best bet...

If you want color... use colored tubing.

Another option is distilled (deionised) water with an addative such as PT nuke... i'm not really familiar with this so your best off asking someone else.

unfortunately chilledpc have a very poor range of tubing/coolants etc.

Coolant... 1 litre is enough
Code:
[url]http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_96&products_id=1976[/url]

tubing... 2.5m... high quality... soft
Code:
[url]http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/2m-TFC-Red-UV-Reactive-Tube-1-2-ID-3-4-OD[/url]
 
I agree stay away if you can with using any kinds of dyes. If you use distilled your loop will last longer and less of a chance of anything corroding. Plus with the tubing the UV will not really die compared to the uv in the coolant.

It should be a really nice loop. Post your results!
 
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