Wanna try a watercooled setup can you give me some ideas..

[toomnymods]

I've gotten by with just a Swiftech 462 and a Thermalright sk-6 now I wanna try to max out both of my processors.. Can you guys tell me if these items on this site are worth buying??? http://www.overclockershideout.com/
Wanna buy the
1) Copper Reator waterblock with the 2 50mmx20mm fans
2) The blue anodized water resevoir /w the digital thermometer
3) kinda unsure of what pump to get does a submersible magnetic drive w/ the plastic impellers work better than the external ones?
4) Want the Quad Cooler Fusion Cool 2 comes with 4 fans
5) What size peltier should I use the 122 watt or the 156 watt?? I wanna get it to the 35-40f barrier without condensation.. by the way the air temps in my room are normally around 65-75 degrees
does ths so far sound like a wicked setup?? I plan on using this on a 1.4 ghz Ayhja to try to get it up above 1750 on a Epox 8K7A+
Thanks

 

[rugby]

Well, I would recommend starting out on the watercooling link off the front page. The Complete Watercooling link by AMDGuy really has good tips and good equipment. I have nearly the same setup and like the performance for the price I paid.

 

[Thelemac]

You probably arne't going to be able to hit 35-40F with out getting condensation...that just too far below your normal temps. I would consider looking at www.dangerden.com too.

 

[Bender]

You are going to get condensation with a pelt so sealing off the motherboard is necessary. I would suggest a 156 or 172 watt pelt. I don't think a 122 watt will handle it but I haven't tried myself.

 

[toomnymods]

Seal off the motherboard with what?? I'm new to watercooling, hehe
Thanks

 

[cjtune]

Bender (Aug 02, 2001 05:16 p.m.):
You are going to get condensation with a pelt so sealing off the motherboard is necessary. I would suggest a 156 or 172 watt pelt. I don't think a 122 watt will handle it but I haven't tried myself.

The max. heat a peltier can throw (at V_max) is about 60% of the rated input power. Check with Radiate to see whether if your CPU generates no more than 50% (to have a safety margin) of an intended peltier's input power. Supplying power is anothing thing....

 

[Flash]

Sealing the mobo isn't really a water cooling thing, but a pelt thing. I've haven't used a pelt in years, so I can't really give you much guidance, but there are articles posted if you look for them. Try searching for peltier & dielectric.

Power is going to be a huge issue if you plan to run two 156+ watt pelts. You'll need either a massive PS to run both pelts, or else a separate supply for each, and that's in addition to your PC's power supply.

 

[toomnymods]

This is starting to get way more expensive than I had hoped.. Plus pelts in my theory aren't really safe.. condensation and all, Thinkin now about ordering a chiller used for very large salt water tanks.. Basically it's a small portable fridge that is about 16" tall by a foot or so deep, and can get water temps down to almost near freezing.. then use that to supply water to my resevoir, then from thier have pumps pump the chilled water to each individual system.. To me I think this would be more ideal then having a dozen power supplys trying to cool all ur overclocked systems with pelts.. Not to mention all the power that would be saved in the process.. I'm really suprised no one yet to my knowledge has dabbled into the "chiller" method for seti farms or anyother large group of computers... the one I'm thinkin of buying is close to 600.00 but it's capable of cooling hundreds of gallons per hour!!
I'll let you know how it works probbaly be a month before I actually get it..
Thanks

 

[ZX-Tex]

the one I'm thinkin of buying is close to 600.00 but it's capable of cooling hundreds of gallons per hour!!
I'll let you know how it works probbaly be a month before I actually get it..
Thanks


Blessed defecation dude! And I thought my watercooling project was expensive. You might want to consider building a watertower or 'bong' first. It can be built with less than $100 worth of equipment (including a 300 gph pump) and seems to have worked well for many. I have built one (I am using right now) and it seems to be doing a nice job.

I would also spend the money on a good waterblock. I just ordered a maze II from Dangerden. I have a home built copper block that seems to be working OK but I think the dangerden will work better based on reports I have seen here. For $50 it is not a bad deal considering it has about $20-$30 worth of raw copper in it.

 

[toomnymods]

Well yea it could get expensive.. but let's say for 5 seti crunchers to all be cooled by my method the prices would be around:
1) 5 maze2 copperblocks by dangerden 250-270 bucks
2) 5 250 gph pumps Submersible magnetic impeller type 35 bucks each 175.00
3) 40 feet of hosing - 30 - 40 bucks
4) Aquatic Chiller 600.00 - 800.00 varies on size
Total cost: $1,245

I bet this Chiller would chill massive amounts of systems, thier is no end to this bad boy.. I could build 100 t-birds and could chill them all guaranteed to almost freezing temps.. These are mostly used on expert saltwater reeftanks like 200-1,500 gallon systems So I'm positive it'd rock just chilling maybe 4 gallons of water plus 20 gallons for the resevoir. Probably wont even need radiators for all my systems..nor 5 extra un needed power supplys or 5 pelts.. So in my opinion I think this would be the cheaper and safer route.. I want all my systems running off the same resevoir probably use a 20 gallon aquarium for this..
Still think of ideas post them if you think you have any that might help me build this hehe,

 

[toomnymods]

Got the link if you guys wanna check it out it's at www.Thatpetplace.com then click on fish at the top then click on the chillers link they have like 20-30 to choose from..
here is the one I want..

CHILLER AFC-4R AQUANETICS
Features "Turbo-Fin Plus" titanium heat exchangers for efficient cost effective chilling of aquarium water. The heat exchangers are made of sturdy .050-thick titanium to effectively resist the ravages of saltwater & electrolytic corrosion. Adjustable electronic temp controller with a 40-90 degree range. 1/3 HP. 21x15x13. **This item does not fall into our regular shipping schedule and additional shipping fees will be charged.****

You Pay: $ 999.00----

 

[CalCoolage]

toomnymods (Aug 03, 2001 09:12 p.m.):
:
1) 5 maze2 copperblocks by dangerden 250-270 bucks
2) 5 250 gph pumps Submersible magnetic impeller type 35 bucks each 175.00
3) 40 feet of hosing - 30 - 40 bucks
4) Aquatic Chiller 600.00 - 800.00 varies on size
Total cost: $1,245
hehe

hehe. I guess that stuff about the SK6 having bottom worse than a $5 HS was a practical joke too, hey?

 

[toomnymods]

Nope serious it's machined very poorly, I had temps in excess of 130f to begin with with this sk-6 and after I properly lapped it for about 2 1/2 hours with 600-1000-1200-1500-2000 wet/dry sand paper the thing dropped all the way down to near swiftech 462 cooling abilities
running seti 24/7 w/ my [email protected] w/ 2.05Vcore my temps are 104-107f quite a drop if you ask me..like 10degrees c hehe..

 

[ZX-Tex]

toomnymods (Aug 03, 2001 09:12 p.m.):
Well yea it could get expensive.. but let's say for 5 seti crunchers to all be cooled by my method the prices would be around:
1) 5 maze2 copperblocks by dangerden 250-270 bucks
2) 5 250 gph pumps Submersible magnetic impeller type 35 bucks each 175.00
3) 40 feet of hosing - 30 - 40 bucks
4) Aquatic Chiller 600.00 - 800.00 varies on size
Total cost: $1,245

Yeah if you add it up that is a lot of money. I think you could also build a single large watercooler and use a single high volume pump (with splitter manifolds) and bring the prices down a bit.

But if you use your proposed method it will be very unique and pretty cool (no pun intended)! I would like to see some of the results.

 

[toomnymods]

So instead of using 5 single 250gph pumps use maybe a huge Eheim pump with a output of 1,200gph with a splitter network to route the water to each individual system?? would sound ideal, but I dont know excactly how strong these hose fittings are and I think that much water pressure might be just asking for trouble.. Who knows, has anyone else actually used just one he pump to cool 4-10 computers all at once, if yes could you please post sumthing about how you accomplished this for routing the water, etc..
Thanks guys...

 

[SteenkyBastage]

i am wondering about those waterchillers. i cant see any way it's gonna bring 85 degree water down to 40 degrees instantly...i bet it is a long term thing.

like...you plug the thing in and several hours (or days) later you have a cool 40 degree water temp. and then all it does is to maintain the temp.

granted, that is on a large (several hundred gallons) water reservoir...but i cant see that for it's intended purpose it would be meant to take in high temperature water and kick it out cold...seems to me like it would try to maintain an already cool temperature.

just a thought, i have never seen or used one, so i could be way off...i'm just trying to look at it's intended purpose and what your purpose is and am seeing a large difference.

 

[toomnymods]

Waterchillers are used by mostly Expert salt water aquatic nuts requiring extreme temps.. They use what is known as " Metal halide bulbs" most of these range from 100 watt bulbs all the way up to 300-350 watts I believe.. These are used for solely reef systems sometimes requiring up to 4-6 metal halide bulbs, but for these to acurratly display the light they have to be maybe a foot off the water at the most, and the drawback from this is it physically boils the water from the heat generated from these guys, it gets super hot.. (seen these guys in action)
So basically If it can keep 2,000 gallons of water from getting over 120f ( most of the reef tanks I've seen they like to have thier water temps at 64f to 68f) I'm sure this chiller could super cool a couple of cpus as they dim in comparison compared to the heat generated from these metal halide bulbs.. Again I'm not trying to produce pelt results of -10c I just want to cool maybe up to 10 systems with 1 system and have the water temp in the low 40's as this should probbaly give me a core temp of 55f (guessing) maybe a little higher , maybe a little lower who knows..
Thanks

 

[ZX-Tex]

So instead of using 5 single 250gph pumps use maybe a huge Eheim pump with a output of 1,200gph with a splitter network to route the water to each individual system?? would sound ideal, but I dont know excactly how strong these hose fittings are and I think that much water pressure might be just asking for trouble.. Who knows, has anyone else actually used just one he pump to cool 4-10 computers all at once, if yes could you please post sumthing about how you accomplished this for routing the water, etc..


OK I am not speaking from exact experience here, but I am a mechanical engineer so take what I say here as a theoretical statement

If you use a higher volume pump the pressure may not necessarily go up very much. The pressure in the pump is related to the amount of resistance that it is pumping water through and the flow rate. The resistance can be minimized with shorter length and larger diameter hoses.

For example you would want to use a large diameter hose (say 2" or so) from your pump to your distribution manifold. The distribution manifold could just be a 4" pvc pipe with several 1/2" hose barbs tapped into it. The inlet hoses from each of the water cooling blocks would attach to each of these hose barbs. Then you would do the same thing with the water block outlet hoses but in reverse. The individual outlet hoses would run into another 4" pvc manifold which would connect to an expansion tank. The pump would draw water from the expansion tank. If you are really nervous about pressure there are precautions that can be used like pressure regulators, flow regulators, or pressure relief valves, also simple to implement and relatively cheap to buy.

The hoses, water blocks, and PVC pipes are capable of taking much more pressure than a small impellor pump can generate anyway. Ask any potato cannon builder (such as myself) .

It may sound complex but I could probably build the whole thing in an hour or two with less than $50 of stuff from the hardware store. If you are interested let me know and I will sketch the whole thing out for you.

 

[SteenkyBastage]

those waterchillers sound pretty cool if they're designed to do that. now my next question is...where does all that heat go to? would you have to have the chiller mounted in another room or something so that the heat it's dissipating wont cook the ambient temp? (what comes to mind is my cpu room getting to 130 degrees, lol)

heh...just curious...something i find that may be worth it in the longterm if it doesn't have any big drawbacks. even at 1000 bucks, it's something that would last thru quite a few watercooling systems.

 

[killem1x1]

I've gotten by with just a Swiftech 462 and a Thermalright sk-6 now I wanna try to max out both of my processors.. Can you guys tell me if these items on this site are worth buying??? http://www.overclockershideout.com/
Wanna buy the
1) Copper Reator waterblock with the 2 50mmx20mm fans
2) The blue anodized water resevoir /w the digital thermometer
3) kinda unsure of what pump to get does a submersible magnetic drive w/ the plastic impellers work better than the external ones?
4) Want the Quad Cooler Fusion Cool 2 comes with 4 fans
5) What size peltier should I use the 122 watt or the 156 watt?? I wanna get it to the 35-40f barrier without condensation.. by the way the air temps in my room are normally around 65-75 degrees
does ths so far sound like a wicked setup?? I plan on using this on a 1.4 ghz Ayhja to try to get it up above 1750 on a Epox 8K7A+
Thanks

The blue resevoir you mentioned is a pump, I have one, and it does a good job, as well as being small. This was my first venture in water-cooling a couple months back, now I'm into my second pelt (overheated the first one)
As far as sealing the mobo, it's not hard just time-consuming. I spent Fri night, Sat and Sunday morning.
I sealed around the base of the socket with clear RTV silicone (although it would have been nice to have the Dow Corning stuff from OCtools.com
I used dialectric grease in all of the pin-holes, ever - so - gently just rolling with my thumb until it started seeping out the bottom.
I put a layer of silicone on the underside of the mobo where the pins are, and then put a piece of "closed-cell" foam (neoprene would be better IMO)
Then I put in the 1.4 bird
Put my AS2 on the core
Placed my coldplate, again put the AS2 on the plate w/ a dot of superglue on opposing corners, foam layer again around the plate
Placed the 156 watt pelt again with AS2, and foam,
Then the water-Block, again with a dot of superglue on opposing corners of the pelt, and again I sealed the entire block with foam and silicone, along with the surrounding area covered in Dialectric grease. The key for me was making a "water-tight" box, if you will.
...,and that is exactly what I had when I was done, water tight, hopefully = airtight = no condensation.
This alone didn't take all this time, but most of it, I added a chipset cooler from the blizzard guys (which is the best I've ever seen)
..., and I also put RAMsinks on my RAM and the other chips on the mobo.
I know kinda sounds like overkill to some, but I'm taking no chances, you can never be to safe.
As you can see in one of my other posts from today, even after I did all of this, I still popped my 450w PSU (completely unrelated to the cooling issues) , but I have another in hand, and if all goes well I'll be back up in a bit hoping to beat my personal best of 1.4 @ 1703