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water cooling for the first time

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JoeCrappa (Jun 11, 2001 07:11 p.m.):
most likely it is your block orientation. how tight is your block? also do you have the water inlet above the CPU? any arctic silver? or compound? do you still have your pads on the CPU? do you have a copper shim on there? if your pads are on then TAKE THEM OFF and you'll get better temps guaranteed. i know this can be dangerous but if you get a shim then it could be safer or do what this guy did here Bunker Mentallity. Please email me and i'll try to help you out. im sure this problem concerns me as much as it concerns you.


I highly recommend not removing the pads from the CPU. They are there to provide a "cushion" point between the HS install and the die. Removing them greatly increases the chances of a crushed die. My waterblock mounts up fine with the pads in place. I'm leaning toward the radiator and water flow rate.
 
well looping the return hose did nothing for me either did the restrict,I also put a rheostat on the pump to slow down the volume did nothing.the block is making good contact with the chip I 've had it off 3 times now.I'm idling at 38*c load 41*c ambient right now is 22.2*c case is 23*c. The only other thing that I haven't tried is taking the pump out and running it inline.Does anyone think that would make a big difference?
 
No I agree I'm not going to remove the pads, I have an 6 pass radiator with 1/2"tubes I thought it would be more than enough If it could handle cooling oil on a 450 hp engine u would think it would cool this thing plus 2 110 cfm fans side by side
 
something just dawned me see what u guys think I'm using a cooler that was designed to cool oil over 350+ degrees. maybe this thing has too thick of tubing to radiate the lower temps that a cpu puts out ?
 
i'm telling you man. its the block orientation. from what i see here thats the only variable left. inline and submersible dont really make that much of a difference. you should try buying a shim, those help you not to crush your CPU. whenever i had problems with my watercooling it was the block orientation. my temp dropped 7c when i took off the pads and put on my shim. watercooling is risky period. if you dont take risks then you dont get good results. its on you RJ i'm just trying to give you my 2 cents which i've learned a lot from.
 
Well I decided to change the radiator I work at an auto parts store and found a nice copper heater core 7x7x2 hope this will do the trick.
 
RJ (Jun 12, 2001 11:30 a.m.):
Well I decided to change the radiator I work at an auto parts store and found a nice copper heater core 7x7x2 hope this will do the trick.

Let me know how it turns out. I'm extremely curious now. (Starting to feel like it's my problem) LOL.

You're theory sounds reasonable.
 
Not a problem Amdguy I soldered up some fittings on it when I went home for lunch I just have to mount it and I'm only using one 107cfm fan will post the results tonight. Thanks for your reply
 
well guys try and figure this one out.New radiator no difference 38*c idle 41*c load without the fan running?? no change if I turn the fan on.If I turn the case fans on high I get a 2-3*drop.any other suggestion?
 
well this is it I give up here are my stats CPU 40*c idle 43*c load, MBO 28*c, water temp in the reservoir 23.8*c, ambient 22.7*c I've tried everything
 
Are you sure you tightend down the bolts enough to crush the 4 feet on the cpu? The Maze 2 blocks have springs and you have to compress them somewhat to get enough preasure on the core. It seems like you have tried almost everything else so the problem may very well lie in the thermal transfer from you cpu to the block.
 
I agree I have the bolts tightened right down as tight as it would get I'm afraid to try tightening any further
 
oh and i also put a valve to slow down the flow in the radiator, no change sorry if it sounds like im getting an attitude
 
Have you tried reading the core temp with a Compu-Nurse? There are a few other products like this to basically a digital readout and a very thin thermal probe that will fit in between the waterblock and cpu to read the core temp. The mobo's temp readings may not be anywhere near reliable. I have an A7V and a A7V133 the in socket thermistor is located on the mobo inside the socket. There is no way this can be acurate as it is really reading the air temp in the socket plus the mobo temp. I can very well see why the readings could go up now that you are watercooling. The high CFM fan on the switech could have been helping to cool the mobo which effected the mobo mounted thermistor.
 
I have an Asus A7V133 board, no idea where the probe is I have a digdoc5 but I think the probe are to thick .But I'm starting to wonder if that is true cuz for one my mother board temps are good and I just over clocked to 1503 and so far everything seems stable. CPU temp right now is 39*c I can turn the cooling fan off and the temp won't even change.
 
RJ (Jun 12, 2001 08:14 p.m.):
I have an Asus A7V133 board, no idea where the probe is I have a digdoc5 but I think the probe are to thick .But I'm starting to wonder if that is true cuz for one my mother board temps are good and I just over clocked to 1503 and so far everything seems stable. CPU temp right now is 39*c I can turn the cooling fan off and the temp won't even change.

After reading that you have a Asus A7V I'm beginning to wonder if the probe isn't off as well. I just can't see it being that warm with water. I'd try Hoot's suggestion on using that digital meter to check temps. It's a cheap device (~$14) and would give you peace of mind. I'm sure your cooler than that is reading. Asus is known for poor temp readings from their thermistors. I've heard of them being off as much as 10 C!

The article hoot did on the device he found works well is here: http://www.overclockers.com/tips491/

Hope this helps you out!
 
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