• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Water Cooling in New Build?

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
I don't have one of those rads and never used one so I don't know if there'll be an improvement with shrouds. maybe someone here has tested the diff.

do you plan on keeping it all internal?
 
VballCoach said:
I don't have one of those rads and never used one so I don't know if there'll be an improvement with shrouds. maybe someone here has tested the diff.

do you plan on keeping it all internal?

like i said before the shroud has nothing to do with the rad it has everything to do with the fans... if you stick the fan right next tot he rad there will be a big gap were the rad is not being cooled because all fans have the motor in the center, now by moving the fan out and inch no the whole rad gets air going through it
 
Icedfire101 said:
like i said before the shroud has nothing to do with the rad it has everything to do with the fans... if you stick the fan right next tot he rad there will be a big gap were the rad is not being cooled because all fans have the motor in the center, now by moving the fan out and inch no the whole rad gets air going through it


I know about the 'dead spot' created when a fan is too close...that's been discussed many, many times here.

what I'm saying is those rads are designed and manufactured to have the fans mounted on them WITHOUT a shroud and someone here may have built a shroud and tested those rads to see if there is any advantage of having one on them.

and it DOES have something to do with the rad as it helps the rad cool more efficiently when spacing the fans off the surface. And it becomes quieter...which is what we all want...
 
Ruff_ilb said:
Is that fillport a necessity? There's got to be a slightly less expensive way to accomplish the same task.

nope not at all you can a valve to do the same job... it was just that you were said you didn't want to go to 20 different stores...
 
Icedfire101 said:
nope not at all you can a valve to do the same job... it was just that you were said you didn't want to go to 20 different stores...

I'm going to go to home depot for some clamps anyway, it seems. I can just pick up a valve there, right?
 
Ruff_ilb said:
I'm going to go to home depot for some clamps anyway, it seems. I can just pick up a valve there, right?

personally i m not sure if they have it there.. but just look for 1/2 ID valve...
 
Oh, and since I'm a total noob at this, shouldn't I be using a nonconductive solution like FluidXP+?

I'll probably screw something up somewhere, and I'd like to have some room for error.

Edit: It is DAMN expensive though.

Edit2: Less expensive than replacing the whole system though... idk.
 
Ruff_ilb said:
Is that fillport a necessity? There's got to be a slightly less expensive way to accomplish the same task.

What about this radiator?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ucts_id=4540:e87d92d745ece71bf5e83b64000d80dc


the fillport makes it easier to fill/bleed your system if you don't want to open your case. also, is convenient when adding if/when your coolant drops.
personally, I made my own res and it's on the back of my case. I like to be able to fill it away from my internals. I can monitor if the coolant is flowing and I don't have to open my case. Also, I don't like non-like metals in my loop.

That's a nice rad. I run a single pass 2-342 heater core similar to that rad.
you'll want to search the forum for that rad to find what other components compliment it.
 
no just make sure everything is secure and when you first turn on your system only run the pump not your mobo, gpu, etc... fluidxp is a waste of money just get some distilled water and algea killer (like the hydrx)

oh and they sell the rad box there too

Radiators-
if you don;t care about noise (and get a fan that has > 90cfm then go for the blackice extreme)

if you care about noise and want the best performance and don't care about price then go for the thermochill pa if you care about price then go with the blackice pro
 
Ruff_ilb said:
I'm going to go to home depot for some clamps anyway, it seems. I can just pick up a valve there, right?


you'll be hardpressed to find a valve small enough in HD...many have tried...although member voigts found a gas valve for a lawnmower at his local hardware store...

exactly why is it you want a valve to fill? I have a petcock to drain my loop and voigts used his 'gas valve' as a drain. Or are you using it to close your loop after bleeding/filling?
 
VballCoach said:
you'll be hardpressed to find a valve small enough in HD...many have tried...although member voigts found a gas valve for a lawnmower at his local hardware store...

exactly why is it you want a valve to fill? I have a petcock to drain my loop and voigts used his 'gas valve' as a drain. Or are you using it to close your loop after bleeding/filling?

yea he needs something to close off the top of his t loop after he fills it

he can always go the really cheap route and just a cork... lol
 
Ruff_ilb said:
Oh, and since I'm a total noob at this, shouldn't I be using a nonconductive solution like FluidXP+?

I'll probably screw something up somewhere, and I'd like to have some room for error.

Edit: It is DAMN expensive though.

Edit2: Less expensive than replacing the whole system though... idk.


just remember to take your time and do your research. And ask questions just as you are. when you get your gear and are putting it together, don't rush it and triple check everything. Leak test prior to installation and you'll be ok.
 
VballCoach said:
some guys just leave it open and have a long t-line tube...not for me tho


i guess if worse come to worse if you can get a barb and fill one end up with solder and then put it on the top
 
Hmm...

About how many feet of tubing do you think I'll need?

Also, will that Maze4 GPU waterblock work with the newer 7--- and X---- cards from ATI and nVidia?
 
Icedfire101 said:
i guess if worse come to worse if you can get a barb and fill one end up with solder and then put it on the top

I sorta did that. I used a PushOn hose-to-flared Tubing Female fitting. then I got a plastic threaded stopper...don't know where to buy them.get 'em at work. that worked fine.
 
Ruff_ilb said:
Hmm...

About how many feet of tubing do you think I'll need?

somewhere inbetween 5 and 10 (but 10 will be overkill but it is the safest route just incase you screw up somewhere and cut things to the wrong length)
 
Ruff_ilb said:
Hmm...

About how many feet of tubing do you think I'll need?

I always say get more than you think...and don't get that vinyl stuff at HD...kink-city!!

I just went to 7/16"IDx3/32"OD Masterkleer from mcmaster.com. Won't go back to 1/2" ever again.

I bought 20ft and I have 6ft left. I kept messing around with my loop.:beer:
I suggest buy more than you think...sucks to cut wrong and run out of tubing.
 
Back