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I have a number of things for you today:

First, I would like to draw your attention to a review. A lot of people asked for a comparative testing of a wide range of GPU water blocks, and Varun from http://thermalbench.com/ answered. His review is fair, balanced, with a well thought out methodology, and although there is no affiliation whatsoever, we keep getting great grades from him. His review of our Heatkiller IV water block is the second in this series, and I'm genuinely looking forward to reading all of them.

Next up, I am happy to present a great new young YouTuber to you. Our friend John started his new business http://liquid.haus last month and has his first client build up on the channel. John is an experienced watercooler, and his hardline tube bends are a piece of art. We feel very privileged to have such a skilled follower!


Third, I want to let you know that the Heatkiller IV for GTX1080Ti Nickel-black is finally available!

HK_IV_GTX1080Ti_Acryl_ni_bl_01.jpg


Sadly, this also concludes our lineup for the Nvidia Pascal generation. We currently don't plan to support any custom layout cards of the 1080Ti, since our resources are already stretched.


Finally, I would like to encourage you to also follow our facebook page. I get more and more user builds sent in, and I try to publish them all through this facebook page. SO, if you like to see some Heatkillers in action, check it out!
 
Hey folks,
I'd like to ask you for your two cents on something. As you know we are currently designing a complete new setup of radiators. Our general plan right now is that there will be several radiators. We plan to do a 120mm line and a 140mm line, in three thicknesses (~35mm, 50mm, 60mm), as single, dual and triple rads. We will probably do 4*120 rads, but not in all three thicknesses, and will probably not do any 4*140 rads. This adds up to at least 18 new products that are currently in design phase! All rads will have tubes instead of "flat tubes", based on the principle layout of our successful MO-RA line. The flat ones will have a 6 parallel U shape, the medium and thick ones will have more passthroughs, keeping the coolant in the rad for a longer time, thus cooling it more. Now, one feedback that we got quite often is that people wished for multiple ports. We will definitely have ports on the bottom and on the front, So two inlets and two outlets. But the question we asked ourselves is: are two additional ports o the top actually _neccessary_ for anyone? So, has anyone ever had a real-life in-use PC where he used the inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top? Because in our experience, and by everything I ever saw on the internet, people usually use inlet and outlet facing to the same side - because the rad is normally mounted to a case wall (front or top, usually), and it's just not possible to use the other-facing port.

So, I'd really appreciate your thoughts about the ports - are 4 ports enough? Or does anyone _use_ more than 4 ports on one radiator? And if you'd like to throw in 2 cents about something else then ports, feel free to - I'm here to listen to you guys! :)
 
I think having 6 ports would be a great idea. Front, back and bottom on each side. It gives people the freedom to position their rads as they may as well as more routing options. With existing standard radiators, you're pretty much limited in that aspect.

I'll take a 120mm line up (Single, Dual, Triple and Quad) of your new rads for my services. Thanks ;)
 
i think that having four ports would be golden. maybe not so much for the single fan rads but definitely for the dual and triples. having the option to use ports say like the hw labs x flows as well as traditional ports would be perfect for the builds i would use them in. i always find myself wishing i had that particular option for my builds. its great to see you guys opting to push the envelope rather than allowing products to stagnate as many wcing companies do. i look forward to seeing the finished product!
 
The only reason I can think of for having ports on opposing sides (top & bottom) would be to have a fill port on top of an upper rad and a drain port on a lower rad. Obviously this would require some minor case mod in most cases. It's not really a mainstream use, but then again neither is a full custom loop. Your audience is at the enthusiast level and above and i believe it would likely be a selling point that some of your competitors may not be offering.

JMHO.
 
Thanks for all your input! I started to take some pics from the workshop. I am in no way a professional photographer, but I thought, maybe you guys liked a small glimpse in our world...?

A landscape of MO-RA3 cores...
View attachment 192106

This is the desk of our founder, CEO and Chief Designer, Rico Weber. As you can see, he is currently working on the design of the radiators.
View attachment 192107

Thanks for all your input regarding ports, we'll try to incorporate it all!

Now, other than that, there are currently two great builds going on that I wanted to bring to your attention: Brian from BPSCustoms does great YouTube Videos and is definitely worth a follow. We sponsored his newest build, as we did with Derek from nxtgenpcs. Both their build progresses are quite entertaining to watch, so give them a try! And last but not least, Adam from ADmodz did an astonishing build for his little daughter that turned out really beautiful and cute.
 
Thanks for the photos :)

Personally I stick to small builds so 2x 120mm or 2x 140mm rads with 2 ports are enough but I guess that 4 ports would be better.

One photo of the HEATKILLER IV ... soon will be tested with i9 7900X :)

View attachment 192113
 
Thanks for the photos :)

Personally I stick to small builds so 2x 120mm or 2x 140mm rads with 2 ports are enough but I guess that 4 ports would be better.

One photo of the HEATKILLER IV ... soon will be tested with i9 7900X :)

[*ATTACH=CONFIG]192113[/ATTACH]

Looking forward to it :) Thanks for the picture!
Jakob, we have a new member here with a Zotac GTX1070 mini 8Gb looking to water cool. Do you have anything to cool this custom PCB GPU? What would you recommend?
I'll leave a longer reply in his thread. In short (HA! Pun not intended :D), I'll recommend our Heatkill Core 60 DIY universal GPU block to him. Thanks for bringing this to my attention!

-------------------------------------------------------------

Guys,we are asking for your feedback and oinion once more: we want to support a few X299 motherboards with VRM water blocks, and ask for your opinions which boards will be the most popular and important to the community. Please vote in our poll and help us develop the RIGHT product for you, our cherished customers :)
 
ANNOUNCEMENT!!!

You all waited very patiently, and we are deeply grateful for that. So it's my pleasure to finally be able to show you a visualization for our upcoming Threadripper blocks! All three versions will be available for pre-order in our shop tomorrow, starting with a nice 10% pre-order discount. All blocks come with the new, unique easy-mount system, directly mounted through the cold plate with no additional brackets. All mounting screws are driven with an allen key for the easiest mounting experience.

View attachment 194556

The full copper block is the pure version for copper enthusiasts. A huge copper base plate and a massive top made from one solid piece of copper offer superior cooling performance. Available from November 10th.

View attachment 194557

The Nickel block offers the unique nickel shinyness for those that don't like the pure copper aesthetics. Also made from two pieces of massive copper, then nickel plated. Available from November 24th.

View attachment 194558

The Nickel/black version is the jack of all trades. It offers the nickel plated base plate, an acrylic top, and a black anodized front cover. Under this cover, there's a preinstalled RGB LED strip that comes with a black paracord sleeved cable, long enough to directly connect it to the RGB headers found on all current X399 motherboards. Available from November 24th.




All pictures are pre-visualization renders. Especially the inlet/outlet are not rendered in detail and will look more elaborate in the final product. Also, the jet structure will be more elaborate in the final product.
 
I sent an email before realizing you were on here, but just in case you can respond quicker through the forums than the helpdesk does. I am trying to setup my three way sli MATX build

this motherboard https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99M_WS/

these blocks http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cool...rcool-heatkiller-iv-fuer-titan-x-pascal-acryl

this sli connector http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cool...-fuer-kryographics-gtx-titan-1-2-slot-abstand

would in theory all work the board is 16x 1x 16x 16x so spacing would need to be single slot spacing and then zero slot for the bottom two cards. The sli connector looks like it will work, but is labeled as only working for two cards. I just want to confirm ahead of time on that. Also for the back plates will it clear the block or am I better leaving them off?
 
I sent an email before realizing you were on here, but just in case you can respond quicker through the forums than the helpdesk does. I am trying to setup my three way sli MATX build

this motherboard https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99M_WS/

these blocks http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cool...rcool-heatkiller-iv-fuer-titan-x-pascal-acryl

this sli connector http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cool...-fuer-kryographics-gtx-titan-1-2-slot-abstand

would in theory all work the board is 16x 1x 16x 16x so spacing would need to be single slot spacing and then zero slot for the bottom two cards. The sli connector looks like it will work, but is labeled as only working for two cards. I just want to confirm ahead of time on that. Also for the back plates will it clear the block or am I better leaving them off?
Hu. I see a couple of issues here. I'll try to answer your question first and then give some advice, if that is okay for you.

Regarding our blocks: All our current full cover cards are not single-slot compatible. It's more 1,25 slots. You can get another normal extension card in the slot next to it, but not to full graphics cards.

Regarding the SLI Setup: the SLI connector that you picked is from aquacomputer. We are WATERCOOL. their connector is not compatible with our blocks. You'd need one of our GPU-X Multilink connectors.
Additionally, you picked blocks for TITAN X cards. TITAN X comes with a DVI connector that sits in the second slot, so these cards aren't single-slot capable in their own right. YOu'd need Titan X (Pascal) or 1080Ti cards. For those cards, we offer a dedicated 1080 Ti block that comes without the DVI cutout.

Regarding the motherboard: according to the link you provided, the motherboard only supports two-way SLI. It will most likely not recognize nor support a third graphics card. Additionally, the third x16 PCIe slot is only a mechanical x16. On the electric side of things, it's only x8.

Hope that helped, though it weren't your initial questions...:-/
 
Hu. I see a couple of issues here. I'll try to answer your question first and then give some advice, if that is okay for you.

Regarding our blocks: All our current full cover cards are not single-slot compatible. It's more 1,25 slots. You can get another normal extension card in the slot next to it, but not to full graphics cards.

Regarding the SLI Setup: the SLI connector that you picked is from aquacomputer. We are WATERCOOL. their connector is not compatible with our blocks. You'd need one of our GPU-X Multilink connectors.
Additionally, you picked blocks for TITAN X cards. TITAN X comes with a DVI connector that sits in the second slot, so these cards aren't single-slot capable in their own right. YOu'd need Titan X (Pascal) or 1080Ti cards. For those cards, we offer a dedicated 1080 Ti block that comes without the DVI cutout.

Regarding the motherboard: according to the link you provided, the motherboard only supports two-way SLI. It will most likely not recognize nor support a third graphics card. Additionally, the third x16 PCIe slot is only a mechanical x16. On the electric side of things, it's only x8.

Hope that helped, though it weren't your initial questions...:-/

I guess I should have been a smidgen more specific since my setup is abnormal. The board supports 3 way sli in practice (they are currently hooked up via extender cables) and with the 5960X I have it will operate 16-16-8 which is fine. The reason I chose the titan Xp blocks was two of the three cards are EVGA SC blacks and one is a FE. The PCB design should allow the usage of the 1080Ti with an Xp block (unless I am reading something incorrectly).

Definitely my bad not reading through the entire thing I thought I had it sorted for just watercool.

The information is very helpful though. It does appear the aquacomputer block is compatible with single slot so I guess I will have to go that route. Thanks for the help
 
I saw those blocks and all I could think was ... :D
:clap:

Guys,
I got two announcements for you today:

We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.

Second, WATERCOOL is hiring! We are looking for an experienced CAD/CAM developer to help with design and construction of new blocks and products. Find all info in the job ad. Yes, that means that if we find someone, we'll probably support more custom PCB GPUs ;) So go go spread the word and find us some new staff :)
 
Hey, I just ordered WC parts from China for my water cooling system with extensive support of new 200W Peltiers!!
Will maybe share how it went. I discovered the Peltier built systems are wrongly designed and put all heat transfer load on Peltier module.
Insanity and bad implementation. I am building system where Peltier is a heat transporter - not exchanger )
 
Hey, I just ordered WC parts from China for my water cooling system with extensive support of new 200W Peltiers!!
Will maybe share how it went. I discovered the Peltier built systems are wrongly designed and put all heat transfer load on Peltier module.
Insanity and bad implementation. I am building system where Peltier is a heat transporter - not exchanger )

Please create your own thread on this matter. Thanks
 
We discussed the VRM waterblock situation today very thoroughly. Here are some hard facts: it is very time-consuming to exactly measure motherboards. Next up, it is very time-consuming to produce MB-X waterblocks for them. But then, often enough, we only sell a few of those blocks! Inside the big Enthusiast market, watercooling is a niche, and VRM cooling is a niche in this niche, and WATERCOOL is a relatively unknown manufacturer with high quality products (and corresponding prices) - all this adds up to a small market segment that we can aim for. So, if we want to support VRM cooling (which we totally do want!), we need to find a modular system, that doesn't require a lot of designing and machining time for each separate motherboard, but comes with a handful of standardized components that can be assembled to match most motherboards on the market.
We already do have a few ideas how such a system could work, but we need data. We can't simply buy the 100 most popular motherboards to gather that data ourselves, so...


We need your help

If you want to help us, provide pictures of your motherboards! That way, we can hopefully build a broad database with which we can start initial designs. We need three clear, focused shots:
- motherboard socket area without the VRM heatsink(s), straight shot from above. Preferably not tilted or angled, but straight frontal shot. Example, Preferred example
- backside of the heatsink with thermal pads still applied (optimal: VRM prints in the pad visible) Example, Example2
- backside of the motherboard (with vrm heatsink backplates mounted, if present) Example

We are only looking for ATX and eATX boards with sockets 1151, 2011, 2011-v3, 2066 or AM4. If you have or want to provide pics, please send them to [email protected] and state the full name of your motherboard.

We cannot and do not promise that this will work out on the long term. As I said, we want to compare measurements and see if we can come up with a simple, modular, one-product-fits-most solution. Maybe we'll fail. But if we get a lot of samples and our initial rough pen sketches work out, we might come up with some sort of solution in 2018.
Thanks for your help!
 
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