WATERCOOL Hardware Rep available! Come in and chat with me!

[WhitehawkEQ]

Hey Jakob, What do you have for cooling a FX-9590 in a radiators?

 

[Silver Surfer]

It is now possible to install a preassembled LED-strip inside of the water block! These LED-Strips are compatible to the power supply of the graphics card. We even crimped the exact matching connector to it. Hence, it can be supplied directly by the graphics card, there are no more irritating cables.
The LED Strip can be controlled via the Nvidia Geforce Experience Tool. It can be dimmed, blink or pulsate. We offer the LED-strips as additional accessories in the colors white, red and blue.

No matter how fancy or great looking a full coverage water block is, if it is mounted inside a tower case you cannot see it without mirrors, so IMO, it looks great laid out flat but is useless bling in a tower case.

In previous versions like the polished stainless steel hole plates, the water block itself front side is beautiful, but once mounted in a tower case and the case is stood upright, you never see it anymore.

At that point to me I have to question was the extra stainless steel plate added to the water block worth the extra weight added to the PCI-E slot?

I would love to see Heatkiller add a nice looking backplate that tower case users will actually see.

Those leds would look great on a backplate and I mean a backplate that actually comes with the water block, not having to be bought separately.

There are a lot more tower cases out here than cases that mount the motherboard horizontally, of which the waterblock face can actually be seen.

My 2 cents.

 

[Alaric]

No matter how fancy or great looking a full coverage water block is, if it is mounted inside a tower case you cannot see it without mirrors, so IMO, it looks great laid out flat but is useless bling in a tower case.

In previous versions like the polished stainless steel hole plates, the water block itself front side is beautiful, but once mounted in a tower case and the case is stood upright, you never see it anymore.

At that point to me I have to question was the extra stainless steel plate added to the water block worth the extra weight added to the PCI-E slot?

I would love to see Heatkiller add a nice looking backplate that tower case users will actually see.

Those leds would look great on a backplate and I mean a backplate that actually comes with the water block, not having to be bought separately.

There are a lot more tower cases out here than cases that mount the motherboard horizontally, of which the waterblock face can actually be seen.

My 2 cents.

I've actually been thinking about a mirrored surface under the graphics card for that very reason, or a PCIe riser cable. Besides, I can't see the inside of a Rolex either, but I know it's there.

 

[Silver Surfer]

These include very low restriction and elaborate cooling structure. The central flow design ensures even further reduction of restriction.

I like the fact you have changed the die area design to forced injection over the center of the GPU die but that does seem like it would have increased restriction over the previous flow through design?

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

That really is great news!

I'm a fan of a black frame with acetal. Hope the backplate comes in black as well with some etched writing based on the GPU it is cooling.

Like the fact that the LEDs will somehow be controlled from Nvidia's software. I just hoped the LEDs were RBG and you could pick a choice of color but can't complain. Also, if this was possible, something similar to other manufacturer blocks is if there's a illumination on the acetal in/out portion that can have a interchangeable plate so you can get a customized name of the GPU's manufacturer, product line and or a custom design on it based on one's themed build. Kind of like the Swiftech XL CPU block sold at PPC.

I will steer away from nickel though since I'm heard several times from folks having issues to a manufacturer that distilled and a biocide can have a negative effect with a nickel based loop. I like sticking with acetal, copper and silver based products. Haven't had one issue for almost 5+ years now.

Last but not least I will say, I might be eyeing you guys when and if they release a GTX 1080 Ti line as I'm looking to upgrade by than.

Can't wait and keep us posted.

Yep, the backplate is black.

We also would love RGB controlled LEDs, but neither the hardware on the graphics card's PCB nor Nvidias software are compatible to RGB yet. Of course, you can simply install a RGB strip and have it controlled by some external LED controller.

Nickel is perfectly fine with distilled water and chemical biocides. The dangerous thing here is the silver (presumably also used as a biocide?), because it adds corrosion potential versus all lesser noble metals, including copper and brass, but especially against nickel. Given that there are many other ways to prevent algae (anti corrosion additives like Innovatek Protect, for example) which do not pose a serious threat to all metal parts of a loop, I personally can not understand why people are still using silver kill coils. WATERCOOL as a company strongly recommends against using silver in loops, as do most other high value manufacturers.

how exactly would these run in sli? is there a separate block that links these together? or just fittings and pipes between them?

No, this block cools only one graphics card. It can be connected to other cards via a SLI connector. I wanted to point out that our water block is compatible to the new layout of Nvidias SLI HB bridge.

Hey Jakob, What do you have for cooling a FX-9590 in a radiators?

That's an easy question Our MO-RA3 radiators cool everything you throw at them

I like the fact you have changed the die area design to forced injection over the center of the GPU die but that does seem like it would have increased restriction over the previous flow through design?

I do get where you are coming from, but no, the restriction is atually decreased.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Hey guys,
a small update with a couple of scetches and plans:

I recieved multiple questions about the LED illumination on the GTX 1080/1070 blocks. It is installed under the POM block on the edge of the waterblock like this:


And here are three pictures in action:




Picture by customer


Picture by customer

Nextup, we designed the alternative top for our HEATKILLER® TUBE reservoirs. It will come with two ports and look like this:

And finally, I wanted to tell you that we are currently working on a waterblock for the AMD RX 480, and will get to a waterblock for the GTX 1060 next up.

 

[LawShadow]

Hey guys,
a small update with a couple of scetches and plans:

I recieved multiple questions about the LED illumination on the GTX 1080/1070 blocks. It is installed under the POM block on the edge of the waterblock like this:


And here are three pictures in action:




Picture by customer


Picture by customer

Nextup, we designed the alternative top for our HEATKILLER® TUBE reservoirs. It will come with two ports and look like this:

And finally, I wanted to tell you that we are currently working on a waterblock for the AMD RX 480, and will get to a waterblock for the GTX 1060 next up.

Hello Watercool,

Really good looking gpu blocks i know which ones to get for my next upgrade heatkiller IV for cpu and heatkiller IV copper for gtx 1070!

Question about the 4th picture:

I presume your using rubber tubing is it Norprene or ek-zmt?

What size and brand of the tubbing?

What size and brand of the fittings you used on those rubber tubing?

Thanks in advance.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

I'm afraid I can't help you there. This is a pic a customer sent in. He didn't provide any info on the tubing nor the fittings, so I wouldn't know...

 

[Blaylock]

The fittings in the 4th pick are Bitspower barbs. No idea what size naturally. If I had to guess at the tubing I'd say it's the EK tubing. With no clamps it looks like he undersized the tubing and heated the ends in hot water to soften them and squeezed them over the barbs for a nice tight fit.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

The fittings in the 4th pick are Bitspower barbs.

Good eye Blay.

 

[LawShadow]

I'm afraid I can't help you there. This is a pic a customer sent in. He didn't provide any info on the tubing nor the fittings, so I wouldn't know...

Oh well no biggie but thanks for the reply.

 

[LawShadow]

The fittings in the 4th pick are Bitspower barbs. No idea what size naturally. If I had to guess at the tubing I'd say it's the EK tubing. With no clamps it looks like he undersized the tubing and heated the ends in hot water to soften them and squeezed them over the barbs for a nice tight fit.

Thx, I got both Norprene Tygon R6016 (1/2 x 3/4) and EK-ZMT 1/2 x 3/4) been testing all kinds of 3/4 compression fittings as well as barbs + worm drives or t-bolt clamps or spring clamps. So far i'm pleased with 2 combo options:

EK-ZMT + koolance 1/2 barbs and Koolance 1/2 spring clamps nice and tight fit, (can be tighter by using Bitspower 1/2 barbs)
Tygon Norprene R6016 + Bitspower 1/2 barbs and Koolance spring clamps also nice and tight fit.

These 2 options gave me the best fit without being able to pull it out.
Worm drives = fugly, T-bolt clamps are better looking but you need specific size had most sizes but wasn't impressed.
Compression fittings from Bitspower, Koolance, EKWB they do their jobs but could pull it out if i applied some force (EKWB and Koolance are good/decent with EK-ZMT tubing (3/4)

But the best result where with Bitspower and Koolance barbs (1/2 id) with Koolance spring clamps they bite really well also keeps applying force "springy" and looks sweet almost better then regular compression imo.

Had to ask but as you said probably EK tubing with a bigger barb.

 

[Blaylock]

Have you tried Enzotech? I have a few of their 45's and they work great with Primochill ADV LRT.

I know what you mean about the worm clamps. It's what I'm using right now. They do the job well, but man they UUUUG-Leeee. I think the Delrin clamps are the best looking but haven't used them yet.

 

[LawShadow]

Have you tried Enzotech? I have a few of their 45's and they work great with Primochill ADV LRT.

I know what you mean about the worm clamps. It's what I'm using right now. They do the job well, but man they UUUUG-Leeee. I think the Delrin clamps are the best looking but haven't used them yet.

Yeah i have tried and used Enzotech compression fittings for a while excellent quality. But very hard to get 1/2 x 3/4 of that brand in Europe.

Also used for a long time Advanced LRT tubing first batch had plactisizer issues probably the sneaky store sold me Advanced PRO...
Currently using Advanced LTR black (made sure it was retail packaged 3 meter) gonna check if all is well when i tear it down for my next upgrade.
Went with norprene or EK-ZMT since it has no plasticizer has high chemical resistance evaporation is really low, black is good vs algae no light and looks great i like the industrial look. I do recommend flushing either rubber tube before use.

XD...worm drives are ugly as hell but honestly Koolance spring clamps are really good looking with Bitspower barbs and Norprene tubing. Try those Koolance spring clamps imo the best looking clamp and also bites like a pitbull:



Used it with Koolance barbs and EK-ZMT but with Bitspower barbs (the silver ones) it looks even better and bites even tighter.



They work like a charm with regular pvc tubing as well for example Advanced LTR.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Now, friends,
we recieved a lot of different questions about "will you support custom design XY for the GTX 1080/1070"? The answer is a definite "yes, but...". We definitely want to support some custom PCB layouts, but we are currently undecided which ones. And that's where I'm asking for your input: Which 1080/1070 custom PCB layout would you like to see supported by WATERCOOL? Please provide an argument for the custom design of your choosing.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Newsletter 08/2016

HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 available


All versions of the HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 are now available, including the matching backplate.

The new water block features a slick look, high quality materials, excelent performance and offers even more: for example, it is fully compatible to NVIDIAs new SLI-HB bridge. Furthermore, we found a great new solution for illumination. We now have LED strips available that can be connected directly to the LED port of the graphics card. Not only is this reducing cable routing issues, but it's also possible to control the illumination of the water block directly through NVIDIAs Geforce Experience software.

Both the water block and the backplate are compatible to all GTX 1080 Founders Edition and GTX 1070 Founders Edition cards.


Grab yours here!



Waterblocks for ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 available

We now offer a waterblock for the voltage regualtion modules of the ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10. As with all new waterblocks of the HEATKILLER® MB-X series, the
HEATKILLER® MB-X VRM ASUS RAMPAGE V will be available with a top made from acrylic glass. Additionally, we now also offer dark acrylic glass.

Grab yours here!



MultiPort top for HEATKILLER® Tube series

Answering the great demand, we now offer a matching MultiPort top for our HEATKILLER® Tube series reservoirs. It is now possible to connect the reservoir to the loop via the top. A matching stand pipe is part of the delivery scope.

Grab yours here!


HEATKILLER® IV CPU series performs greatly in recent reviews

As in previous tests, our HEATKILLER® IV performed greatly in the latest two tests. We want to share those results with you.

The first test was from german hardware site computerbase.de . The testing staff was so enthusiastic about both the performance and the workmanship of the HEATKILLER® IV that they gave it their only buy recommendation.

read more at www.computerbase.de

The second test was done by reviewstudio.net . The HEATKILLER®IV reached top notes in this test, too, and recieved three awards.

read more at www.reviewstudio.net


What's next?



We are currently working on waterblocks for the Radeon RX 480 and for the new TITAN X.

Stay tuned!

 

[LawShadow]

Hello WATERCOOL-Jakob,

I stumbled on one of your replies either this forum or on overclock.net can't remember exactly where. Anyway you mentioned using Innovatek Protect coolant on your private water cooling rig for 2 years and your blocks are as if new. Did you used full copper blocks or nickel plated blocks i presume they are all watercool blocks.

Reason why i am asking is next week going to order the last parts for my wc rig cpu and gpu block plus coolant. And would like a good approved coolant to go with Watercool blocks to keep them in good health.

Thanks in advance.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

I used only Copper blocks for a long period of time and am using both nickel plated and pure copper blocks. I use IP because I'm also using one Alphacool Cape Cora, which is a full passive radiator. Sadly, it is made from aluminium, so it poses a real threat to any copper component without a powerful corrossion inhibitor. But yes, me personally, I can fully recommend IP with distilled water.

If you are smart(er than me), you stay clear from aluminium components and should be happy with pretty much any aftermarket coolant. They all differ by very small margins, if at all...

 

[Blaylock]

LawShadow if you don't mind me chiming in, I would recommend avoiding any dyes in your loop. Many will clog up your blocks and at a minimum will stain any clear acrylic in your loop i.e. reservoir, block covers etc.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

LawShadow if you don't mind me chiming in, I would recommend avoiding any dyes in your loop. Many will clog up your blocks and at a minimum will stain any clear acrylic in your loop i.e. reservoir, block covers etc.

Oh god yes! I do realize that dyes look great, and I love to see them in Casemods and Showcases and the likes. But for everyday use? I would recommend to stay clear of them. Pretty much all of them leave stains, and a lot of them do clog up...

As far as I know, it's less problematic with hardtubes, because a lot of the clogging stems from washed out plasticizers from the soft tubes. But my personal general rule of thumb? Just use coloured tubes.