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Watercooling helped already

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NUTNDUN

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2001
Location
Newville, PA
Well I am now running at 1260 with just the watercooling, it ran stable at 1270 but for some reason UT didn't like it. Seti had no trouble with it. So I dropped it down to 1260 till I do the voltage mod, sure beats 1242. I finally found a site that did a voltage mod to a pro-2a and were able to get 2.5v out of it so I'm going tomorrow to get the resistors to do it. Temps are 31C idle and 34C full load and case temps are 22C.
 
Cool! Now if Metaxas could only get his H2O system together..........
 
Hey Fink,
I just change the mix yesterday to 1quart distilled water and 2 caps of watter wetter, my temps haven't changed with the new mix, the old mix was 1 quart distilled water, 5 caps water wetter, and a splash of glycol(antifreeze).
Hey Colin,
didn't Met get his system yet, didn't he have his on order? What do you use to take your temp measurements? So far I have only been using MBM, I wanna get the digidoc or come up with a nice setup to more accurately measure the temps. I think burn-in played a factor too in being able to squeeze some more out of it with the watercooling, I'm still messing around with placement of fans to get the best temps but nothing really seems to help. I'm starting to wonder if longer hoses would help at all.
 
The system = dead. The water cooling stuff is here though, but had to send the reservoir back, cause it was cracked all the way down the side, (think it happended in shipping) and it leaked badly. My new mobo should be here soon, but i'm kinda worried about the whole thing. I still cannot get a decisive answer to the question, how can you tell if you have a faulty cpu? Got a big ole 120mm fan 131CFM for cooling the radaitor, until I can get a cheap used window unit a/c, the I will use it to cool the radaitor with + that big *** fan. I plan on balancing it out, so that it doesn't get too far below room temp, as I am not going to seal it. No peltiers. (unless its a chiller or soemthing) And I need to get another 120mm fan, to put in the plexi in the side of my case to blow cool air directly onto the board, and video card. I got ramsinks for the vid card mem, and I have a blorb for the gpu. Now if I can just get that wacky mobo to run properly....hopefully it should be here this weekend, or maybe early next week. Who knows. :)
 
Metaxas,

I thought you determined that your CPU was fine. Man, you gotta get this sorted out. The entire forum membership is waiting to see what our hero will do next! What island do you think Tom Hanks is on with your resivoir? Hope your motherboard was not on the same plane! ;D
 
Hey Met,
Unless you have another system or a friend has one that you can throw the bird in to check it you just have to wait till the new mobo gets here. Why don't ya use one of the plastic junction boxes from Lowe's for a resivior. I ended up killing my MSIpro2a when I first got it because I decided to use one of those copper shims and needless to say they are useless and it shorted the transistors on the top of the cpu and I thought I killed the chip. So being all PO'd I RMA'd the mobo and ordered a new chip and al the while I had a Gigabyte mobo the wife had gotten me for christmas so I tried it out with the cpu I thought I fried and it worked but the Gigabyte board suks for overclocking but I used it till the MSI came back so thats why I have 2 1 Gig systems running now. The cpu I thought I fried is the best oc'er of the two I have, kinda funny I guess when ya look back on it.
 
See, now I used a copper shim on mine too, and it was touching NOTHING. We took it off, same thing. Its was something about that first board. Hopefully #2 will rock the house...man you don't how BAD I wanna get some bench mark loving going on. :( Sobs. Not only that, I only played a bit of Giants on my ole Dell, since it can't really handle it, and MAN I REALLY wanna play that game...its driving me crazy... ;D No one Lives forever is kick arse too...but man...DOH. Someone else suggested that it could be a bad P/S...any thoughts?
 
Hey Met,
What kind of power supply are you running? Do you and me a favor and please do not use the coppers shim as long as the cpu has the feet on it you have no need for the shim unless you want to risk killing the chip or the mobo, and in my case it was the mobo.
 
Met and NUTN,
Why did you guys used the copper shims in the first place? I thought they were the best CPU KILLER. I never read anyone recommending the shims on this board. Well....once...by an unknown man. Anyways, so Met, still waiting for the IWILL #2? Hope this one will work as good as it's supposed to... ;D
NUT, how are your temperatures now? Got any lower? Still in the 30's?
I bought this Arctic Silver 2 in hoping for at least 1~2 degrees difference, man...did nothing at all. My temps are still at 28 idle 33 full load. Same as Arctic Silver1. I jsut wasted another 10 bux. Sux. So if you still have plenty of AS1 left over, DON'T buy AS2. They perform exactly the same. Maybe better for some people, but not in my water cooling case. This is out of topic...but just wanted to mention. :):)
 
Hey D,
I was never able to get my temps any lower, I even tried running just distilled water and 2 caps of waterwetter to 1 quart of water. I'm going to order the other 120mm case fans I want next week and I will go from there. Right now my temps actually went up to 33-34C idle and 38-39C full load but that is because I did the voltage mod for my pro2a board and have it at 2.0 vcore running 1320. It opened up a hole new level of ocing. Now I'm thinking bout getting a pelt and putting a heatsink on my voltage regulator, I had it up to 2.15 vcore but the mosfet chip was really hot. Any way here are my score now since the mod and the watercooling.

[img="[URL]http://yourpage.blazenet.net/nutndun/1320cpu.jpg[/URL]"]

[img="[URL]http://yourpage.blazenet.net/nutndun/1320mem.jpg[/URL]"]

[img="[URL]http://yourpage.blazenet.net/nutndun/1320multi.jpg[/URL]"]

[img="[URL]http://yourpage.blazenet.net/nutndun/1320mark.jpg[/URL]"]

If ya have anymore ideas on getting the temps down with the water system fill me in, I'm going to put a valve on the return line so I can adjust the amount of flow and test it from there. I will probable try sitting the radiator outside of the case too and see if that makes a big improvement, but even with my cardboard mok-up with 2 fans blowing in fresh air up top for the 120mm Y.S. to pull through the radiator it didn't make a difference.
 
Thanks Hoot,
I just had to back it back down to 1310, Seti and IE5 didn't like each other it froze on me twice, I know it would run stable faster then 1320 but I would have to up the vcore to 2.1 or more and that dam voltage chip sure is hotter then hell, I'm going to get some heatsinks for my Geforece memory and throw one on the voltage chip too, that and once I get my other fans put in the case I will try to shoot for more.
 
NUTNDUN (Mar 02, 2001 07:56 p.m.):
Hey D,
I was never able to get my temps any lower, I even tried running just distilled water and 2 caps of waterwetter to 1 quart of water. I'm going to order the other 120mm case fans I want next week and I will go from there. Right now my temps actually went up to 33-34C idle and 38-39C full load but that is because I did the voltage mod for my pro2a board and have it at 2.0 vcore running 1320. It opened up a hole new level of ocing. Now I'm thinking bout getting a pelt and putting a heatsink on my voltage regulator, I had it up to 2.15 vcore but the mosfet chip was really hot. Any way here are my score now since the mod and the watercooling.

If ya have anymore ideas on getting the temps down with the water system fill me in, I'm going to put a valve on the return line so I can adjust the amount of flow and test it from there. I will probable try sitting the radiator outside of the case too and see if that makes a big improvement, but even with my cardboard mok-up with 2 fans blowing in fresh air up top for the 120mm Y.S. to pull through the radiator it didn't make a difference.

Well, I guess the primary difference between your system and mine is the CPU and the voltage. I'm currently running 1.2GHz @ 1.4(10.5 x 133FSB=1396MHz) with only 1.75 default voltage. Somehow if I increase my voltage beyond 1.80, the cpu does not like it very much. It freezes or random restart and showing all this weird reactions. So I am still at my default voltage (1.73V on IWILL Hardware Monitor to be exact) My CPU even works at 1.70V but I just left it at 1.75 for stability. Obviousely my heat load is much less than yours, wich is at beyond 2V I believe.
Another difference could be the pump. As Colin mentioned, higher water flow provides better cooling. When I had the Eheim 1046, my temps were 38 and up in full load. After replacing the pump with the Danner 500GPH pump, it stays cool at 32~33 MAX. And this MAZE2 block from Dangerden seems to work better than the first one. I didn't do a controlled experiment but...got better results with current setup so I'm happy.

Bythe way, how did the alcohol perform? Did you tried adding alcohol at all? Did it help?
 
No never tried the alcohol yet, I'm going today to get more hosing so I can set the radiator outside the case and test it that way and see if it is a case related issue. I really like this mobo but I think I am going to get the MSI k7t turbo 2 with the 133A chipset like yours. I already have the memory to run great at higher fsb speeds. plus then I could put this board in the wifes system and throw that Gigabyte peice a sh*t out or sell it. then I could have one system running at 1200 and mine runnin at 1310 or more. If I wait another month I will probably get a 1.2 Ghz chip also, if the wife doesn't beat me to death by then......LOL I'm going to try and do a bunch of tests after I get home from work today so I will let you know how I make out. My temps aren't really all that bad I guess considering how much the cpu is pushed,........we'll see. :) Ooh I'm getting close to my 2nd star.........LOL
 
I am going back to Eheim pump!!
I have ordered Eheim 1048 with 160gph to replace this 500gph Danner pump. The only reason is this pump's noise is getting on my nerves now. In the beginning, I thought I could handle the noise since it was much quieter than the Delta 38CFM fan....but as I continue to use it, this pump is getting more and more annoying. I know I will have higher CPU temperature...but I don't think it's going to be that much of a difference. Perhaps 1~2 degrees C. I used to use Eheim 1046 and that pump had no noise of any kind...not even low hum. So the 1048 will be very quiet while providing twice the flow rate than the 1046. At least it will have some better cooling ability than the 1046, but less than my current danner pump.
I'll have to sacrifice couple degrees for the noise. I just hate noise. Dang...I wish I could find a pump that is as quiet as Eheim while providing 400 or 500+ GPH power. (I know there are...but too expensive....)
Anyways, I'll see how the CPU temperature goes...
 
Hey D,
I can't forsee it making too much of a difference in cooling with the Eheim pump, If Petsmart would of had one in the store when I bought my Danner I probably would have gotten it instead. As far as my 250 gph Danner I can't really hear it even when the Y.S. Tech fan isn't running. Speaking of the Y.S. Tech 120mm fan, that dam thing is getting louder everyday. I wanna put three panaflo 120mm in the case with one of em replacing the Y.S. . The panaflo's are rated at 41db and the Y.S. is at 48db I believe. Hopefully it makes it a little more bearable.
 
Yea...that's what I thought...
Well, I'm using the Panaflos and they are loud also. Only in full speed though.
If I reduce the speed using the 25Ohm rheostat I got from the Shack, the noise level goes much lower. Right now, other than my pump, I can only hear my Hard disk's spinning noise only.
 
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