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SOLVED Watercooling Problem

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Okay I have a 1.2GHz AXIA (10x120) at stock voltage and a danger den maze2 copper block and a DD Cooling Cube all hooked up to a 200ish GPH Pump. I am sure that the flow rate is good enough because i have tested it. The problem is that i am getting temps in the 48-50's C under load. I have tried lapping the copper block with upto 400 grit sandpaper because my 600 grit took the shine off the bottom for some reason, it did improve the max temp a bit but still.....Just not right. Thanks for the help.

Ohh also i have watter wetter mixed in the line and AS2 on the block ( I spread a thin coat with a flat edge razor).
The pump could be stronger. I have found a Danner 700 to be optimum. What is you ambient temp. If the air for the radiator is drawn through the case, what is the case temp?
Just checked case temp after idling a while and its 26C and the CPU is 35C (I have an A7VKT133A and the cooling tweak) Do you really think a higher flowrate would help? It seems to do the job pretty well.

Also this temp is coming from the in-socket thermisistor (sp?) that is just a little strip on the PCB not even one that i can push up to be more accurate. If i had the money i would buy something better but im broke right now :(
have you bled the system to make sure there is not any air in it?
Yes i have clear tubing and have re-filled it three times and knocked everything around to get all the bubbles out :p
Being as you have an A7V series as I do myself....The temp sensor is off by approx. 10Degree's C. If you installed an external temp probe beside the die you would realize this. So me with my Duron 700 @ 1120 2.1V watercooled full load temp of 29MB/49CPU is actually approc 39CPU. I like my temps and it's stable, thats all that counts.
This is with a homemade 3/4" waterblock, Danner 250GPH pump and Suzuki LJ-80 heater core with a 65cfm 120mm fan drawing air through it. 1/2"ID hose is used throughout the system.

Take care
So you think every A7V has a 10C rating over what it is? I really hope so but i dont have the money yet for a real temp probe :( im gonna get one as soon as i get a new job though.
going to a pump over 200gph with the same head preddure will prolly only make 1c difference at most
I dropped 3C or 4C by going to the larger pump. I guess I should start taking notes, cause it was a while back and brain fade is setting in.
I could buy a new pump and give it a shot but again, there is a money issue....i dont have any....But the pump does seem to be doing its job so ill leave it like it is for now.
I had that problem with that block. Turns out I just didn't tighten down the nuts hard enough. It compressed the springs down to about half or less of their original size, but my temps dropped from 50+ to around 30.
The other thing to check is how far the hose barbs are seated in the block. Sometimes they are in just a bit too far.
You mean like back out the barbs and screw them back in? or is there another way to check because i really dont want to take it apart im not afraid of water cooling but i dont want to break the block.......plus i hate taking my system apart but if there is a good way to check or you think that could really be the problem i would do it.

I screw my nylon nutz down to where they are about 2/3 inch to 1 inch from the block. If you tighten the block down evenly on all four nutz, then you shouldn't ever have the problem of killing the die. I tighten 2 at a time just to be careful and my block, having never been lapped by me, gets full contact with the CPU die and my temps are reflected in my sig. That is with water wetter and water solution, not chilled or pelted, yet, hehehehehehheehhehehe.