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WC build questions...

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footbag

Registered
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Location
NEPA
I'm going to be adding WC to my setup(in my sig), but have already made one costly buying error in buying the case with Thermaltake's built-in water cooling. I've decided not to use the TT kit, and to purchase a whole new custom kit listed below...

Koolance CPU-350
Black Ice GT Stealth 280 rad (2 X 140mm fans)
XSPC X20 750 Bay Reservoir/Pump combo
1/2" ID tubing


For now it will be CPU only, but I have a few questions. First, is there any disadvantage to going with the 140mm rad vs the 120mm? Fan selection or noise, maybe? Or just a more efficient 120?

Also, would I be better off doing a separate pump/reservoir? Being able to check the flow on the front of the case seems important, are there other better options if this is not a good one?

And last, the rad will be on the bottom of the case. My case air flow is currently front to back with no fans on the bottom, one fan on the door which I may eliminate and one fan on top blowing out. By putting the rads on the bottom, it would mean all the incoming air flow would be coming from the front single 140mm fan. Would there be a problem with reversing my top fan and having my air flow entering the top and front and exiting the bottom and back?

Thanks in advance and I'll be posting some pictures soon. Just waiting for a new case top. My original one was damaged in shipping and TT shipped it the morning I reported it. Very good customer service! As for their WC kit... Hmmmm what around the house needs to be water cooled? :shrug: Maybe the dogs water bowl? :p

For your viewing pleasure...
IMG_3331.jpg

IMG_3332.jpg
 
Last edited:

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
becuase your getting the smallest rad i would use on an i7 i would have the airflow so the air from under the case blows into the case. i would also add some extra feet under the case. i have the same one and it doesn't have enough room with the stock legs.

and the only thing in that loop that your looking at is the block. the other stuff is not so good.

i would get one of the following doubles, if you must go with a double, otherwise i would go for a triple.

Double 120mm
Thermochill PA 120.2 - good for low speed fans
XSPC RX240- good for low speed fans
HW Labs Black Ice GTX240- good for high speed fans
Swiftech MCR220-QP- good for medium speed fans
Feser X-Changer Triple 120 mm- good for low speed fans
Black Ice SR1 240- good for low speed fans

add to the list the new EK rads.

for pump and res check out this


XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir
+ Swiftech MCP355


Wicked paint job by the way.
 
OP
footbag

footbag

Registered
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Location
NEPA
becuase your getting the smallest rad i would use on an i7 i would have the airflow so the air from under the case blows into the case. i would also add some extra feet under the case. i have the same one and it doesn't have enough room with the stock legs.

and the only thing in that loop that your looking at is the block. the other stuff is not so good.

i would get one of the following doubles, if you must go with a double, otherwise i would go for a triple.

Double 120mm
Thermochill PA 120.2 - good for low speed fans
XSPC RX240- good for low speed fans
HW Labs Black Ice GTX240- good for high speed fans
Swiftech MCR220-QP- good for medium speed fans
Feser X-Changer Triple 120 mm- good for low speed fans
Black Ice SR1 240- good for low speed fans

add to the list the new EK rads.

for pump and res check out this


XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir
+ Swiftech MCP355


Wicked paint job by the way.

Thanks, I'll look into those specific rads. If the flow comes up through the bottom, are the fans still on top of the rad or are they placed below. IE Do they have to blow towards the radiators?
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
You can set the fans in pull or push, your choice. Some say pull is better to reduce the dead spot where the fan hub is. Up to you. You'll need to think about cleaning the dust off, so putting the rad flush on the bottom with fans on top might be better, easier to clean the rad.
 
OP
footbag

footbag

Registered
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Location
NEPA
You can set the fans in pull or push, your choice. Some say pull is better to reduce the dead spot where the fan hub is. Up to you. You'll need to think about cleaning the dust off, so putting the rad flush on the bottom with fans on top might be better, easier to clean the rad.


That makes a lot of sense, thanks!:thup:
 

jr1

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Location
norway
To make it easyer to clean i cut up a filter (that is made out of fabric) for an old aircleaner so that the air have to pass through there first
It makes it a breeze to ceep the rads clean
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
because of the size your looking at for the rad i would go push pull with one set of fans under the case.
 
OP
footbag

footbag

Registered
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Location
NEPA
because of the size your looking at for the rad i would go push pull with one set of fans under the case.

Push pull meaning four fans? I think I could do that.

I also noticed the pump you suggested has a 3/8" fitting. Should I stick with 3/8" tubing, or is there a benefit to going bigger? I do like the look of the larger tubing.

What kind of aftermarket legs should I be looking at? Higher profile rubber (+ 1/2") or something to give me more lift like a machined leg(2"+). How do the machined ones mount being that the base of the case is plastic?

Thanks again.
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
if you buy the bay res i suggested then you can use what ever size barbs you want to use.

you have to remove the top of the pump (has the 2 barbs) and replace it with the res.

i wasn't thinking about any specially made legs, more along the lines of some blocks of wood.
 

Madmann135

Registered
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
This may or may not help you but I was in a similar situation.
I have been thinking of getting water cooling for as long as I had a computer but terrified of leaks (easing that stress by using worm clamps on every line).

My first choice in Res/tank combo was a Koolance RP-980BK but decided against it as I herd Koolance has 'quality control' issues.
Separating from a Res/pump comb I decided to go with a XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir for Single Laing DDC and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro 12V Pump combo.
My train of thought was "a bay res./pump combo could cause air to flow into the system and it is safer to have the pump at the lowest pint in your setup to prevent air getting into the pump and burning it out in addition have the res. at the high point of the system to allow air to flow up to the highest point of the system." Call me paranoid but I think Murphy likes being my closest and most unwelcome friend so I am airing on a side of caution.
1/2" ID tubing does improve overall performance a tad over 3/8" ID in addition you are getting a bit more coolant into the system and that only hurts if Murphy finds his way into your coolant system (tenacious little monster, he is).

My only concern with your choice in Res./pump combo is not the res. in the system but the pump. My questions are how reliable it is, how long is it predicted to last and how long it is warranted to last? Murphy in 'you get what you pay for.'


Oh and a tip, remember to clean the insides of your system namely the blocks, rad. and res in addition leak test your system for ~24 hours outside your computer if you can.
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
This may or may not help you but I was in a similar situation.
I have been thinking of getting water cooling for as long as I had a computer but terrified of leaks (easing that stress by using worm clamps on every line).

My first choice in Res/tank combo was a Koolance RP-980BK but decided against it as I herd Koolance has 'quality control' issues.
Separating from a Res/pump comb I decided to go with a XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir for Single Laing DDC and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro 12V Pump combo.
My train of thought was "a bay res./pump combo could cause air to flow into the system and it is safer to have the pump at the lowest pint in your setup to prevent air getting into the pump and burning it out in addition have the res. at the high point of the system to allow air to flow up to the highest point of the system." Call me paranoid but I think Murphy likes being my closest and most unwelcome friend so I am airing on a side of caution.
1/2" ID tubing does improve overall performance a tad over 3/8" ID in addition you are getting a bit more coolant into the system and that only hurts if Murphy finds his way into your coolant system (tenacious little monster, he is).

My only concern with your choice in Res./pump combo is not the res. in the system but the pump. My questions are how reliable it is, how long is it predicted to last and how long it is warranted to last? Murphy in 'you get what you pay for.'


Oh and a tip, remember to clean the insides of your system namely the blocks, rad. and res in addition leak test your system for ~24 hours outside your computer if you can.

have you already ordered that pump and res? that res will ONLY work with a laing DDC pump installed. the ddc and d5 pumps are the most used in water cooling today. they last a good long time and have alot of power for large loops.