What do you use for your desktop sound system?

[freakdiablo]

Primarily, USB to Modi 2 MB, RCA to a borrowed Yamaha RX-V871 running in 2.1 to a pair of JBL A180s and a Klipsch R-10SW (overkill but use it for overall bedroom sound, planning on swapping the JBLs with the smaller Pioneers I use for the TV).

Headphones, I have the Modi going through some RCA splitters to a Magni 2, then juggle between a set of Hifiman HE-400is and 600 ohm Beyerdynamic DT990s, but primarily the HFMs as I'm a sucker for planars.

If we're posting updates

Still using the same Schiit stack - Modi MB/Magni 2 Uber

For speakers, after I moved I returned the RX-V871 to it's owner and grabbed another R-S202 and swapped over the Pioneers to my desktop (pair of SP-FS52s). Have a little SW-8MKS with them but leave it off most of the time - apartment living and it's kinda up against the neighbor's wall . Moved the JBLs and Klipsch sub to the TV.

For headphones, picked up a set of HFM Sundaras.

 

[Janus67]

I picked up a set of Vanatoo T0s (t-zeroes), good sound for a few hundred bucks and a good size for a desk. Using a Sennheiser/EPOS GSX1000 dac thing to switch my headphones. I bounce around between Philips Fidelio H2s, Beyerdynamic MMX300, and Sennheiser Transparent Ones

 

[Audioaficionado]

My living room setup is mostly a pile of Schiit.

 

[Celeron_Phreak]

I used to run a Logitech Z-680 5.1 system, but the move to a smaller apartment pushed me towards something more space friendly.

Now I use an LG SK1 soundbar via bluetooth for general use or "nothing special gaming" like Risk of Rain 2.

The primary setup is onboard audio to a Schiit Modi 3 DAC, outputting to a Schiit Magni 3+, and driving Beyer Dynamic DT-990 Pro 250ohm headphones. I use this setup most of the time.

Occasionally I use a HyperX Cloud Flight 2 gaming headset, but only when I am in a voice call while working on a project that involves stepping away from the desk.

 

[mjw21a]

I’m running a USB only discrete R2R DAC into some cheap Edifier MR2 speakers. Sounds better than it has any right to for the cost.

That said I’ve a direct heated triode tube preamp + John Lindsay Hood 1969 power amp on the way, also a pair of 3” Lii Song AL-3 speaker drivers coming to replace the Edifier MR2’s. Not sure which speaker cabinets to get the the AL-3 as yet.

Gothic Audio Semperfi “The Outsider” USB cables, Aurealis Dragon R1 RCA cables. I’ve not decided on which speaker cables to use just yet. Maybe Aurealis Litz 201.

 

[Celeron_Phreak]

Recently I changed out my audio for my end game setup (needs to at least hold me off until 2030).

Headphones
Schiit Asgard 3 w/ES9028 DAC module
Beyerdynamic DT 1990 Pro (primary use)
HyperX Cloud Flight 2 (when I'm working away from the desk at night)

Speakers
Edifier R1280T (through the preamp of the Asgard 3)

 

[=XAF=AfterShock]

Onboard audio (Realtek alc1220), to Logitech z625's or Steelseries arctic 7 cans.

Same, for the size and price they sound pretty damn good, especially with little fine tuning in sonic studio

 

[unsafesteagle]

i use hdmi to the tv and then eARC out to the surround receiver.

 

[Audioaficionado]

I just bought another piece of Schiit to add to the stack. Got a silver finish Vader 2 100W speaker amplifier. I've got the Modius balanced DAC, Mani 2 phono preamp, Freya S balanced preamp, Jotunheim 2 balanced headphone amp, a Loki mini equalizer and a Modi DAC on my desktop workstation. I also have a Fluance TT, Tascam CD transport, and a Nakamichi cassett tape deck and I digitally stream Hi-res music from my Android tablet through my Modius DAC USB port.

 

[Zerileous]

Recently got my hands on freakdiablo's Magni 2 Uber. For now I'm running it off a 3.5mm to RCA adapter from the motherboard (not ideal for sure, but still sounds much better than onboard). I'm listening using a pair of ATH-M50s right now ($20 at a garage sale), I also have the 58X Jubilee's which are currently in the living room. I'm prefering the closed back for studying.

For speakers, I actually have the Magni powering some very sensitive (90 db) 3" bookshelf speakers that came with a cheap tube amp (https://www.tubedepot.com/products/pure-acoustics-dreambox-3-hi-fi-speakers). Using RCA to banana cables, switching the Magni to high power and using most of the volume knob, it doesn't get loud but is easily enough power for desktop use. I just have to make sure to unplug the headphones first.

 

[freakdiablo]

The M50s?

Nice choice. Use them as mobile cans with my laptop. I prefer open cans but have tried multiple closed sets over the years for the same reason, there are times you just want quiet. They're definitely my favorite.

 

[QuantumCookie]

A pair of Yamaha HS-80M 8" studio speakers (max 120W?) + Abrahamsen ADAC II + Sony bluray player/computer

Took me a week to figure out how to get sound off the Sony bluray player, a sound setting hidden deep in the sound options. I vaguely recall having to switch to PCM setting or something, to get any sound to my studio speakers via XLR cables.

Note: Only version 2 of this DAC has the added feature of switching between two outputs, in this case:
1) usb-->computer to DAC via usb (audio) and then studio speakers (XLR)
2) spdif--> bluray player to monitor via HDMI (video) + coaxial digital cable (audio) from bluray player to DAC and then to studio speakers (XLR)

The studio speakers have a slight hiss that is not/never noticeable when playing sound. There's a switch for controlling the base, from 0 to -2db and -4db. (Other switches too at the back.)

I noticed today that the (newer) smaller speakers like HS5i (5") have visible mounting points on them, which I guess is what the 'i' means in HS5i. Newer HS-80Ms are called HS-8 I think. Seems like maybe the newer variant has a slightly deeper base (38Hz vs 42Hz).

Studio monitors are supposed to be more neutral than hi-fi speakers. I thought they were more directional but maybe I am wrong thinking that. Bought at a nice price many years ago, volume usually kept at a minimum because they can get loud at max. I think I've never played them at max level, just about 50'ish %.

A fun detail, when using XLR cables for your speakers, you can use this big knob to control the audio directly ('TC Electronics' product). I cleverly added some tape around the knob, so dust won't get into the mechanics. Some kind of fancy potentiometer I think to control the volume unless I am mistaken.

 

[Al_bundy]

LIA AMT at Denon AVR X3000. A litle bit pricy but worth. Thre Audaphon AMT 1i cost ~ 700USD/pc. Compared to the AMT is the bass and the crossover cheap lol.
Pix:

 

[JLK03F150]

LIA AMT at Denon AVR X3000. A litle bit pricy but worth. Thre Audaphon AMT 1i cost ~ 700USD/pc. Compared to the AMT is the bass and the crossover cheap lol.
Pix:
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Wow, awesome work!

 

[Al_bundy]

Yeah, not that bad. But this was really much work with black high gloss acrylglas in the speakercase and also a milled bassport.

 

[Voodoo Rufus]

That's pretty sick. Are the transparent panels non-resonant enough?

 

[Al_bundy]

No its fine

For my Retro PC i had build a nice small 5 Inch Subwoofer bellow 40hz. 7l vented speakercase. 19mm MDF and 40mm walnut + black italien nappa leather.
I learned, for Gaming, this subwoofer is more than enough. For small rooms r also 6 inch for cinema and music also sufficient. Since i tried it with small subwoofers, i kick myself in my *** why i always bought 12" Subwoofers. Absolutely not necessary. But i still have an 12" Sub that i have to finish in next 1-2 years. Absolutly overkill even it stands in a big room.

 

[jarablue]

I have Steel Series Arena 7 2.1 desktop speakers. They sound good enough for me and are connected via usb to my desktop PC. For gaming, movies and music, it's more than enough.

 

[Audioaficionado]

I like audiophile SQ, but since I have a lot more tinnitus lately since covid and aging, I can tolerate less perfection as long as they have good tamber. Headphones give you the most detail, but speakers can give you more more physical impact. I've pretty much settled on my destination setup unless something really special tickles my fancy and it's affordable on my fixed income lol. I have a ton of CDs and LPs to play plus streaming.

 

[Audioaficionado]

My old modi 3 started dying as the switcher PS could no longer adequately power it from just the 5V signal USB port from my PC. So I bought the latest modi 3+ with newer USB-C ports instead of the older mini USB. https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-plus

My old modi will only work if I also plug in a phone charger USB to the power only USB port.