I feel your pain Mr. $T$. I have a maze2, heater core, Eheim 1250, big res, water wetter and a 1800+ @1.667 and it idles at 40C-41C. Grrr The mobo temp is 28C though. (air cooled)
there is alot of bad advice flying around. antifreze/water doesn't cool as well as straight water but straight water will cause corrision water/water wetter will cool better than straight water and fight corrision if you plan on bring water temp below 0c by all mean use antifreeze. stick with you present radiator and get a ehiem 1250. are you using the stock fittings that come with your block if so remove them and epoxy in barbed fittings. are you sure you got all the air out?
I read something like that at procooling but I have been doing a little experiment of my own. I have a piece of aluminum and a another piece of copper inside a tupperware container with redline water wetter & plain tap water so far it has been 3 weeks no bubbles or any corrision.
It is my theory that waterwetter is an (read some that it was)alkiline and tap water has a acidic quality to it. so each one is on different sides of the ph scale and cause the ph to balance out where as distilled water must be some where in the middle. it makes sense that it is designed for tap water b/c I haven't seen anybody put any purified water in there car
best way to figure out if your ok as far as corrison goes is if you know someone that has a pool get them to test it for you. you add acid or chlorine to change ph value in pools don't see why it wouldn't work in this situation too.
I think you base problem is what the others have said - your antifreeze proportions are too high. I am using a 40% at -25C for obvious reasons and I can tell you that this has caused a 50% drop in the heat transfer ability. I was running a delta of 10C with water and am now running 15C delta. With reference to reducing the corrosion antifreeze will accomplish that at concentrations of less than 10%. It is used in that concentration in automotive applications with success.
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