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PROJECT LOG Will's Toolbox PC - Sponsored by Thermaltake

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Jan 31, 2013
Ok so this mod is already finished but I'm going to edit all the pics and post the entire build log here.

I have a large 2-piece Husky toolbox that obviously houses all of my tools. The bottom right drawer is a deep one (takes up two vertical spots) and is full of nothing but spare nuts and bolts. I took the two drawers out of the bottom right spot on the top box and put them in the bottom right part of the lower box and just ditched the large junk drawer. It's in this spot that I put the PC.

A HUGE thank you goes out to Thermaltake who have graciously sponsored this build with a ton of their new watercooling gear. This includes the following:

Pacifit PT20 Reservoir/pump combo
Pacific RL240 Radiator
W2 CPU Block
V-Tubler 3T Tubing
Coolant 1000 Red
2x Pacific G 1/4 45º fitting
2x Pacific G 1/4 90º fitting
6x Pacific 3/8" x 5/8" Compression fitting
4x Riing 12 Red LED Fans

Gigabyte F2A85XN-WiFi
AMD A10 6800k
WD Caviar Black 320GB 2.5" HDD
Radeon HD7350 2GB
8GB Corsiar Vengeance LP 1600
220W 1U server PSU
Cooling by Thermaltake
Lamptron CW611 Controller
Windows 10 64-bit
Logitech MK100 wireless keyboard and mouse
17" Dell monitor

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This drawer with the large BAJA sticker is the junk drawer. There's really no need for this to be here. It's full of junk and it's HEAVY.


This spot had two drawers in it. This is where the PC is going. The two drawers that were here got moved to where the single junk drawer came from.


As you can see there's a decent amount of room and it's almost perfectly rectangle in shape.


Now that the slides are out of the way we can get a better look at what we've got to work with.


Here I have the bottom black acrylic panel cut to nestle in around the drawer lock mechanism. This ITX setup is an old AMD and is just here for mockup.


Here you can see I have the bottom, top and side panels roughly cut.

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I had to partially disassemble the PSU to get it to fit nicely under the lip of the casing. I also had to sand down the top edge of the cooling fan a tad so the bottom acrylic panel would lie flush.


I set the hardware up on the workbench and got Windows 10 Technical Preview installed and all the drivers installed.


Next up I cut out holes and installed the power button which is actually a key switch, the reset button with HDD activity LED and two front USB 3.0 ports.


Next up I cut an opening in the back for the power cable extension.


A friend was kind enough to give me a back panel from a BitFenix Prodigy that he didn’t need so I could steal the i/o section from it.


Here it is after I got done trimming the excess.


And here’s where it will reside.


Next up I marked and cut out the needed parts from the rear of the toolbox.

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I painted the i/o part black and installed the i/o shield.


With the motherboard mounted to the lower plate I marked and cut out slots for the wiring to pass through.


Here I have the panel riveted into place. I also cut out the hole and mounts for the rear 120mm exhaust fan and added some rubber trim to help seal the fan against any kind of bugs that might like to get in.



Here we have the fan installed with a filter on the outside – again to keep out the bugs. The motherboard is temporarily mounted here.


My package from Thermaltake showed up! Lots of awesome goodies going into this build now!

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I got the W2 CPU Block mounted and the LED connector plugged into the CPU fan header.



Next up I worked on securing the acrylic to the toolbox. I decided to use M5 well nuts with some nice red anodized button head fasteners.


Next I got the PT20 mounted to the left side panel. This combo is great I must say.


Here is approximately where the radiator will go. It’s a lot thicker than I anticipated!


Here’s the bottom and left side panels installed.


I decided to use a Lamptron CW611 controller that I had sitting around for this build. It’ll fit perfectly here.



I designed and 3D printed three corner brackets and a combo fan control shroud/corner bracket. These parts will tie all of the acrylic panels together with the steel toolbox body.

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The fan control shroud is a perfect fit.



I drilled the corner brackets like so so that the well nut will go through both the acrylic and steel while the bolt goes through just the bracket.


Here’s the completed bracket setup. The four front-facing holes will accept well nuts and hold on the clear acrylic front panel.


I drilled two mounting holes in the shroud and mounted the controller securely to it.


I then added a single well nut and bolt to hold the bottom panel to the toolbox frame.


Next up I mounted the HDD to the left side panel just behind the PT20 assembly and spaced it with some plastic spacers.


I had an extra channel on the Lamptron controller so I added a small 40mm white LED fan behind the HDD to provide some cooling and lighting.



Next I sleeved both the temp sensor and pump cables with some red/black paracord.

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I decided to order a full set of silicone dust covers from Mod Cover seeing how this PC will be in a pretty rough environment. I got enough to fill out the back panel (minus the ports I’ll be using) as well as two more USB plugs for when the front USB 3’s aren’t in use and some SATA port and internal USB/audio port covers as well.


Now The Swiftech version of this CPU block comes with a red color plate but the Thermaltake version swaps the red for an orange. This simply won’t do seeing how everything else is red. Luckily I had a spare red plate from a Swiftech block I purchased a while back.


I laid out all of the acrylic parts on some plywood and hit them with a few coats of matte black spray paint.



While the paint was drying I took to cutting gout the 240mm radiator hole in the side of the box. I did some measuring and used an old 240mm grill to mark the cutout then went to town with my air cutoff wheel.


Here it is after some filing and sanding to make it even.



Here I mounted the fans with the RL240 radiator with some red anodized button head bolts. Once it was mounted I installed the 240mm size Demci filter to filter the intake air.


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Here I’ve got the loop filled and bled out.


And a quick shot while I was wiring up the fan controller.


Here it is all up and running. I was using a USB keyboard temporarily as I was out of AAA batteries for my wireless keyboard.



I noticed that the Demci filter was being pulled in by the two fans and the filter was rubbing on the fan hubs. I solved that problem by loosening two bolts on each fan and running some stainless safety wire between them. This works perfectly for keeping the filter off of the fans.


The final step was to position the front panel and mark for screw holes to line up with the well nuts I installed in the printed brackets.


There we go. The final part is installed.


Another mod in the books! Thank you again to Thermaltake for hooking me up with some of their new Pacific water cooling gear for this project!


Jul 24, 2013
sooo why not attach the monitor to the top on a hinge so when you open the lid the monitor comes up.. then maybe pivots around! huh? NICE


"That Backfired" Senior Member
Jun 5, 2013
Go Blue!
Very nice build CC. I like the mod you made to fix the fan filter from rubbing. I have the same issue on one of my mods. I'll have to look and see if I can do something similar.

Q: Did you ever fabricate a cover for your PSU? I would be leery of leaving an open PSU in a metal box.


Jan 31, 2013
Very nice work and well-documented!

Thank you!

sooo why not attach the monitor to the top on a hinge so when you open the lid the monitor comes up.. then maybe pivots around! huh? NICE

Well I had originally planned on mounting the monitor to the top panel but I find myself using the keyboard and mouse to the right of the box on the workbench. All of the swiveling monitor mounts I found were too thick to let the lid close with the monitor inside. Although I can't tell you the last time I had the lid closed....probably over 7 years ago when I brought my box to this shop lol.

Very nice build CC. I like the mod you made to fix the fan filter from rubbing. I have the same issue on one of my mods. I'll have to look and see if I can do something similar.

Q: Did you ever fabricate a cover for your PSU? I would be leery of leaving an open PSU in a metal box.

Well I was thinking of using a pair of black 120mm fan grills (the standard wire kind) but I didn't have any (in black or chrome) and didn't feel like putting an order in online somplace for two $2 fan grills lol. So I was working on my bike and was putting new safety wire on the rear axle nut and that's when it hit me. Sometimes the simplest solutions are right in front of you. Plus it gives it that workbench aesthetic as well.

As far as the PSU I had no choice but to leave it open as I showed. It simply would not fit under that little ledge with the shroud on. The fan is still there cooling it and I mounted some brackets inside to keep the PSU from moving laterally. The bottom part of the PSU case is still there - only the top cover I had to remove. The box is all powder coated anyhow and the only exposed parts tha tmight come into contact are ground points so I don't forsee any issues unless the box really gets tossed around hard. But at that point I'm sure the acrylic will break and I'll have bigger problems to worry about lol.