Is this normal??? I've outlined some of my woes with FSB OC...

**I originally posted this yesterday in the AMDMB forum**

My quick question would be this: after each failed attempt at a new FSB setting will I have to clear the CMOS (I follow, to the letter, what Angry put in the sticky)?

Prior to the day's OC attempts I was at: 200 FSB, 11x, 1.650vcore, auto DRAM volts, and Prime95 stable for 5 hours at 39 CPU temp and 35 system temp.


Details of my FSB OC attempt follows:

1) change DRAM volts from auto to 2.7
2) save and exit bios --> windows user screen --> restart computer. (I did this to erradicate a superstition I had).
3) Go into bios: change CMOS reloaded configuration #1 by chosing backup and rename to: 200,11x,1.650v. save and exit bios --> windows user screen --> restart. (I did this, too, to erradicate a superstition I had with CMOS reloaded).

4). Go into bios:

....change CPU Ratio from 11x to 10x
.... Change DRAM Volts from 2.7 to 2.8
....Change CPU Clock from 200 to 210

....save and exit bios. --->to windows user name screen ---> restart.

5). Go into bios:

....change CPU clock to 215

....save and exit bios ---> BLACK SCREEN, no response.
....power off, wait 20 seconds, pwr on -->nothing.
...power off, hold esc key, power on --->nothing.

...decide I'll have to follow Angry's "Proper way to clear CMOS" faq.
...Follow that to the letter.

...after I'm in windows, I decide "shutdown" is better option than "restart." More superstition likely at work.

Power up, go into bios ---> select setting #1 in CMOS reloaded --> to windows ---> and here I am asking my question about is this really the process I'll have to follow each time I try a FSB setting that doesn't work?

If so, I see a lot of mobo battery in-out cycles in my motherboard's future.

Thank you for any helpful input,

-SynapticBliss

Edit: On my Antec case there are two buttons, one is power button, but there is a little round, black button above that, recessed a bit deeper - probably to make it deliberately harder to push. What is that button for? I checked the manual that came with the case and there's no pointer to it on any of the drawings. I'll visit the Antec website, see if I can't find the answer there. EDIT: The answer wasn't found there.


__________________
I was *THAT* close to understanding...then I got to thinking about it; now it's gone.

Antec SLK3700BQE
DFI Ultra Infin 400,
AMD XP-Mobile 2400 AQYFA
OCZ Performance Series 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-3200
SLK900a hs, 92mm Panaflo
WindowsXP Pro

bold

The other button on your case is the reset switch. Check your motherboard manual for the proper connection. You can download the full 117 page manual at dfi.com.


What kind of power supply are you using?

If you fail a o/c setting, ussually you can hold down insert key when rebooting an set computer back to default. Then go make your changes in the bios when it reboots. If it will not reboot holding down insert key at boot then you may need to clear the cmos.

Julianba, a reset switch, huh? When, or rather, what is the use of it?

I did download the manual from DFI, printed out the bios section.

The power supply is the one that came with the Antec case, smartpower 350, I believe.

WinXp, that the thing, after saving bios changes the computer shuts down and where one would expect to see their graphic card info (or whatever that blurb is at the upper left corner at system start) it simply remains a black screen. At this point I know the system is borked and haven't found a way to bring her back without reseting the CMOS.

I'll try holding in the power button (takes 5 seconds to shut down), releasing, wait a moment, press the insert key and press the power button next time.

Next time, however, will probably be a while. It isn't much fun going through a lengthy process, flipping the battery, pulling the jumper, etc b/c of a failed FSB setting. I'd imagine to fine tune this thing...hell "fine tune," that's a joke. I'm simply looking for generalities but this process has soured me somewhat.

I was hoping for a suggested fix, or at the worste, for someone to say this process is normal. Yug ug ugly process.

-SynapticBliss

You can use the reset when windows is locked up to force a reboot.



You shouldn't have to clear the cmos everytime. For some reason your system isn't stable. For now I would turn down the fsb alot, say 166, just to get a baseline. If that's stable enough to run windows then work from there.

Basically you want to isolate each component of your system, and try to figure out which one is causing the instability. Check out this overclocking guide, particularly the mechanics section.

http://www.deep-powder.net/OC_Guide/Mem_Mobo_CPU_Overclocking_Guide.htm

The absolute BEST way to clear the bios is with the battery out, and I would suggest that you use it (even though it is somewhat annoying, but then again, all boards are different). Also, what bios are you running? I believe that you may find more luck running one of the beta bioses; I myself could not achieve an o/c with the official bioses. I'd say give the 1/21 and 1/31 bioses a shot, but be wary of the alpha's in the meantime as they have a greater propensity to render your bios FUBAR.

julianba, I'll try that reset switch next time I lock up; which, by the way, only occurs when I mess with the bios. For the past several days I've been running at 11x, 200 FSB, 1.650vcore, 2.7 DRAM volts, RAM timings at stock 2-3-3-(except I moved tras to 11).

I was Prime95 stable with this setup for 5+ hours. Haven't had a single problem with these settings. So am I alright in thinking I can use this as a baseline?

deception' ', I'm running the stock bios, 11/23 I think. I'm a little, no scratch that, a LOT unfamiliar with altering the bios. I've read a little but the 'void warranty' and 'FUBAR' comments I've come across make the process less than appealing.

I've considered trying to goto the 1/21 bios. But I wonder to myself, what is the downside of these? All I hear are great things. If these are so wonderful, I think to myself, then why hasn't DFI adopted them as official bios?

I'm certainly not familiar with the hoops a bios version must jump through to attain "official" certification but it seems DFI is slow in adopting these as official. Why are they dragging their feet?

-SynapticBliss

Just flash the bios to 1/31 - it's a piece of cake.

http://www.lanparty.com.tw/Support/...?CATEGORY_TYPE=LP&INDEX_TYPE=MB&STATUS_FLAG=B

Download the 1/31 bios from here,
Download the awdflash from utilities or wherever or even dfi's site.

Boot to a command prompt.

type "awdflash biosname.bin /py /sn /cd /cp /cc /cks /r /f"

after that - clear the cmos using a jumper - with the battery removed (I never did but I guess people recommend it for whatever reason), or at least leave the jumper in the clear position for at least a minute. Than put it back to normal and you should be ready to o/c.



Techjoe

techjoe,

thanks for your input. You make flashing the bios sound very easy. I think I'll give it a go, soon. Before I do, and no offense, I need to corroborate the information you gave me with other places. This'll help placate my fears of messing up my computer.

I visited the official site, here's the information they give for flashign the bios:

1. Download the appropriate BIOS update from the Download section according to the motherboard model and PCB (Printed Circuit Board) version.
2. Extract the BIOS binary file and the flash utility program from the zipped file using applications as WinZip.
3. There should be THREE files being extracted from the zipped file. They are: *.EXE , *.BIN and *.TXT file.
4. Copy the *.BIN and *.EXE file on to a floppy disk and reboot your system from the floppy drive.
5. Type in the following command under DOS prompt (NOT under windows!):
A:\>[executable] [filename].bin /F
OR
A:\>[executable] /?
for detailed instructions.
Warning: For NFII chipset based motherboard, please do not give "/F" instruction.
Otherwise, LAN MAG IP will be lost that might cause your LAN feature failed.

6. Reset your computer AFTER the completion of BIOS flash process.

***************

You mentioned doing a lot more "slashing" than the "/F" mentioned here:

awdflash biosname.bin /py /sn /cd /cp /cc /cks /r /f

Click to expand...

What's all that do?

Thanks for your words and thoughts,

-SynapticBliss

The ONLY thing you need to worry about is that you get the correct file - which should be pretty obvious once you get to the point of d/ling the file. Just make sure you have awdflash.exe, thebios.bin in the same folder and run it as i stated.

the additional "switches" for awdflash for it do to certain things which make the flashing most thorough. If you do the exact steps you will be fine - you can trust me 100% - don't worry about asking other people, a lot of them won't even know what the switches do. If you type in awdflash /? you'll see most of the once I stated and you will know exactly what they do. I've used those exact switches for almost 2 years now and my bios flashes are always flawless.

Just trust me.

If you Really Really need assurance - I can give it to you.

Regards,

Techjoe

What do those switches mean? just out of curiosity

Here...


AWDFLASH v8.24C (05/12) (C)Phoenix Technologies Ltd. 2003 All Rights Reserved

Usage: AWDFLASH [FileName1] [FileName2] [/<sw>[/<sw>...]]
FileName1 : New BIOS Name For Flash Programming
FileName2 : BIOS File For Backing-up the Original BIOS
<Swtches> ?: Show Help Messages
py: Program Flash Memory pn: No Flash Programming
sy: Backup Original BIOS To Disk File sn: No Original BIOS Backup
Sb: Skip BootBlock programming Wb: Always Programming BootBlock
cd: Clear DMI Data After Programming cc: Clear CMOS Data After Programming
cp: Clear PnP(ESCD) Data After Programming
LD: Destroy CMOS Checksum And No System Halt For First Reboot
After Programming Tiny: Occupy lesser memory
QI: Qualify flash part number with source file
E: Return to DOS After Programming R: RESET System After Programming
F: Use Flash Routines in Original BIOS For Flash Programming
cks: Show update Binfile checksum cksXXXX: Compare Binfile CheckSum with XXXX

NVMAC:XXXXXXXXXXXX NVGUID:XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Support nForce Input MAC,GUID Function,with "/wb" to update MAC and GUID.

Example: AWDFLASH 6A69R000.bin /py/sn/nvmac:xxxxxxxxxxxx/wb
D:\Download\Drivers\DFI\LPNF2UB\BIOS>

not all of them are listed but are necissary for a VERY thorough flash.

Just trust me

Wow, thanks Techjoe.

And hello, too. We're all currently "online"


"Sleep, techjoe, sleep. You shall dream of brand new cpu's and gpu's being dropped from the ceiling at your command." Said the Sandwoman.

And don't ever forget to load "Optimized Defaults" in the bios upon first boot, save and then reboot, THEN and only then can u change bios settings to taste.