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Im screwed if i cant get this part

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{ace of spades}

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May 7, 2005
Location
London
Im making a watercooling kit for my computer as part of my school project. I go back in less than a week and i just broke the connect that came with my pump. Shurflo say they wont have it in stock for weeks but they did say they are sold elsewhere, but i cant find it anywhere.

Here is the specs:

1/2"-14 NPT (Female) x 3/8" Barb

And this is what it looks like:

Hex-nut-Straight-fitting.jpg


On top of that im in the uk, at this point its not worth trying to order it from the us because it wont come in time.

Please help me, if you know any places which sell a lot of this kind of thing can you post a url, ive tried searching google but it doesnt come up with anything!

James
 
What grade are you in? If you dont mind. I wonder how watercooling can be considered science project.

Anyway, mcmasterCarr's shipping would take more than a week. I recommend calling all the shop in town. Otherwise just get a new pump
 
MameXP said:
What grade are you in? If you dont mind. I wonder how watercooling can be considered science project.

Physics of heat transfer and enthalpy. ;)

I would check a hardware store or epoxy it back on. I'd suggest using epoxy liberally to ensure it runs leak free ;). Your other option is to put it into a plastic bin if the broken barb is the inlet.
 
Im using the water cooling in conjunction with peltiers, and its not a science project, its a design and technology project.

It broke rather badly, my little brother yanked on the tubing which was connected to the plastic barb and broke it straight off. Ill try to bodge this as well as i can and hope i can find an alternative. It would have been easier if the damn 1/2" wasnt female...

Thanks again for your help.
 
i would try trying to glue it back on with a bunch on silicone caulk; its really versatile stuff. I once basically glued together a bong with it, and it ran trouble free for 3 or 4 months.

:beer:
 
Use 2-part epoxy - great stuff and it'll only take a day for full curing. After that it should be fine ...


... as long as your brother doesn't get to it again ... ;)
 
Just a note on the 2part epoxie... it's not permanent in water cooling applications if you buy the regular stuff, the water will eat away at the bond after about 2 weeks.
 
You might not be able to repair the part you have and still have a useful barb, but you can find each end of the part you need, cut off whatever else comes with it (or not), and epoxy the parts together. I'd use plumber's epoxy putty. It's made for just this sort of thing, and you can build up a nice thick supporting structure with it. You could even use it to build part of the body of your new frankenpart if that's the best way to avoid turbulence. No need to layer it, just mold it like clay. Beware, though, the working time is short. And be sure to rough up the parts a little before you epoxy them, no matter what kind you use. The epoxy needs something to grip.

Maviryk said:
Just a note on the 2part epoxie... it's not permanent in water cooling applications if you buy the regular stuff, the water will eat away at the bond after about 2 weeks.
I've never heard of epoxy being eroded by coolant flow before. Plenty of people have used it to stick barbs on the their reservoirs, pumps, and radiators and to make small repairs. What is this "regular stuff" you're talking about and how did you use it?
 
Otter said:
I've never heard of epoxy being eroded by coolant flow before. Plenty of people have used it to stick barbs on the their reservoirs, pumps, and radiators and to make small repairs. What is this "regular stuff" you're talking about and how did you use it?
ya i was wondering the same thing about "regular stuff"... is there some super-uber epoxy out there that we don't know of? or did he mean regular water coolant stuff...

where's this super epoxy, mav?! :)
 
Are we talking about the difference between 5 minute epoxy and JB Weld?
 
Otter said:
Are we talking about the difference between 5 minute epoxy and JB Weld?

Yes, don't use the clear 5/30/60 minute epoxy you can get from walmart or home depot.

Use JB weld or something better!

My homemade res was good for about 2 weeks before the water ate through everything! :eek: (this was before I discovered bulkhead fittings)

For the OP if that's all he can find, it would be a temporary solution, but not permanent. But at least it will be enough for him to get the new part in.
 
What was it made of, Maviryk? Maybe you needed to solvent-weld it.

I won't disagree on the quick epoxies, though. It's worth the wait to get the strongest bond.
 
First one was an acrylic homemade+plastic barbs, second one was some kind of tupperware material with plastic barbs, I also used a little to temporarily seal a leaky housing on a via aqua. All three eventually leaked.

Good thing for distilled water being inherently nonconductive. :)
 
IIRC, acrylic needs to be solvent-welded. If your tupperoid stuff was polyethylene, epoxy wouldn't stick it very well either.

On the pump, my guess would be that the vibration was just too much for the quick-set epoxy.

Hooray for distilled. :beer:
 
IDK about "quick set" - the stuff I was referring to sets to hold in 20 min. but takes a day to fully cure (as noted above). I've never had a problem with it for even outside use though I must admit I haven't used it for WC apps yet.

I did make a 3/8" barb/1/2" adapter out of 1/2" PVC and an extra Swiftech 3/8" barb but haven't put that loop together - guess I'll keep an extra close eye on it just in case ...
 
I have used two part plastic epoxy (takes a day to cure enough to use) for some PVC fittings glued into the plastic end tank fittings of a car radiator on the passive rig I used to run. I used that car radiator for just over a year on two different watercooling setups and it never missed a beat. Otter's suggestion of the plumber's epoxy might also be a good suggestion. Water is not going to do a thing against the plastic two part cure-in-a-day epoxy.

As for acrylic, epoxy isn't made for it and doesn't work with it. You have to use solvent weld like weld-on #3 to join it. It melts the edges together. I have made several reservoirs, and the current one I am using has seen about 10 months of use so far. Once solvent welded, I pressure test my reservoirs by hooking them up to a kitchen faucet at nearly 40-50psi for an hour or more, so solvent welding acrylic works.

Why don't you just go to a plumbing store and get a 1/2"NPT copper adapter and use it for now? The OD of the tube end is 5/8", but 1/2" tubing will go on with a little bit of hot water and/or dishsoap. I think the thread is the same as what you have.

251637_front500.jpg
 
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