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will P5K-E/WiFi-AP need any (eg. pencil/vdroop/other) mods?

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gamefan

Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
I am always amazed by the never ending stream of people accusing their hardware of being inferior. My such and such won't go any higher, I thought I should have more of this or that, what the heck is wrong with it?

I think I'll just connect my P5K-E/WiFi-AP to the E6850 and 2x1GB Crucial Ballistix 6400s, add cooling, case, etc and see what I get overclocking. Then I'll come in here and ask why it won't go any higher.

So I have started reading a little about the mods for the P5K series. It may be advantageous to do mods while the mobo is out of the case. Not that I would first anyway without proof I needed to. Apparently the Deluxe was early and needs some (or at least did). The Premium may not, the P5K does (and probably anything less than in price too).

But I'm unclear whether the P5K-E/WiFi-AP I bought does (likely need any mods). And which mods. There are many models and many mods.
 
I have that board it depends how far you want to push it, if your going for the max then vcore, vdimm, and north bridge voltage mods are needed but if you want a decent oc which is 24/7 stable then mods are not needed.
 
I have gone one step towards the perfect, overclockers' build: I have refused to pay top dollar once again for the mobo. I would say the cost was half way between min and max. I could have even payed double, or even half what I did, and I don't even know why. IOW, I dunno what those mods are good for.

So when I get P5K-E/WiFi-AP, E6850, 2x1GB Crucail Ballistix, 8800GT 512 etc. together I may or may not find out what the limiting component is. Don't know if I'll try to fix it. I don't know what its like. I think I will know immediately how well the whole OC build did though. I think I can assume that most of the components could potentially be stressed a lot more greatly and evenly than my last build if I wanted to, but do I want to?

The point of this question, btw, is to find out more about what a stable 24/7 OC is. I have no interest in breaking any OC records. I seem to always be doing this. Trying to get more from questions which may seem to be already answered. You may have a picture of how high all these specific components will OC, and if I need to buy the Thermalright Ultra120Extreme (which then needs a Scythe fan) for the cpu, then the Thermalright HR-03 GT vid cooler, not to mention the right case, the AS, the fans and controllers, etc. Last time I even ripped the case apart and painted the hell of it, inside and out, after installing my own window.

What is a stable 24/7 OC, how hot is it going to be, and how do I determine what the OC numbers are for my components once they are all put together? If the difference between set it and forget it, and going all out is only 5%, well....The point is, if I knew more about this, I would know where I could cut corners (which I think is as important for an OCers pc than anything else). I have no idea where in the scheme of things being able to do away with everything else is. ps I also want a quiet pc. Like when can I just buy the parts, turn the big OC knob in the sky and walk away? By the parts I mean mobo, cpu, RAM, and I guess vid card. I include it cuz it could get hot. But only when and if they are less than ideal. Its a slippery slope - it leads to installing windows and all kinds of crap!

Not the first pc I bought, but the first I made any kind of effort to overclock was the last one I bought. I researched all the components and then got an Asus P4C800E-D mobo, a matched pair of OCZ cas 2.5 PC4200 RAM (for the PC3200 - ddr400 spec) and a Zalman CNPS-7000Cu cpu cooler. All the reviews used the P4 2.4C cpu. I made the mistake of assuming a 2.6C would be an equivalent overclocker. I put out top dollar for all these components so I could reach high levels of overclock, but found out that the 2.6C cpu was the limiting componet, and instead of achieving a 40% improvement over the stock MHz, I could only achieve a 20% increase. Stock 2.6MHz@ddr400 became 3.12@ ddr440 instead of 3.64MHz@ddr480, which all the reviews had. Of course this meant that I didn't actually need to buy the best mobo, and I believe quite possibly I didn't need an aftermarket cpu cooler at all: I think the stock HSF may have done the job. I spent more than a hundred bucks just on specific cooling items I didn't need. This cpu never gets above low 40C even right after gaming. It does everyday stuff overclocked in thge twenties and thirties C. I even went out of my way to get a 40mm fan and spring it down to the NB. Talk about a waste of time. It was fun, but having done all the planning I thought I needed to do incorrectly, I made the mistake, and had design overkill, paying for it all over the place. In fact it is such a drag, when anything goes wrong, I just set it to stock and leave it. What was the point. You can see by the size of this post I sweat the details. So for this next build assuming I have no control over which E6850 cpu I get, and how well it will overclock will be just an educated guessing game, I am back to buying all the components I assume I will need. In reality though, at this point in this writing I realize I am on a learning path as much as a path to saving money, or hoping to change choice of components. I'm searching for knowledge. I want to know more about a point you brought up. The basis of the stable 24/7 overstock. I have never lerned what it takes - what it is. For me it was the maximum the limiting component was, then rounded down to the nearest 0 or 5, so 220FSB (vs.200). From my research I knew nothing else was stressed.

Don't want no fronkenstine. Best in show, or at least the ability to make it. No Cadillac A/C on my Miata. Just as you probalby didn't need to read all that.
 
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I am just making the shopping list and factoring in all of the goodies and think I can save $300 by learning (what I might have already):

Thermalright Ultra120E cpu cooler $65
3 Scythe fans $60
E6850 instead of E6750 $80
_______
$236

To start with I have a decent cpu cooler (Zalman CNPS 7000Cu) besides the E6X50 stock HSF, very quiet fans (three 80mm Stealth, and the LL case I'll buy for myself will have 120s), a fan ctrlr, and I don't positively need the extra 10% cpu MHz. I have a case, but want a LL, so thats a factor of $500 for... looks, a little safety...., a couple dB?

Haven't mentioned pushing the 8800GT 512, if it needs it. What, $80 for TR HR-03 GT cooler, maybe. I know what draining the last giga who who out of a vid card gets you - a lot; like utter playability at 1280 instead of 1024, to start with, but is it needed? Worth it even? Get real.

But then the ifs start. I want a new 5 channel set of powered spkrs, and a SB X-Fi Gamer retail. But I have 4 good powered speakers, a SBLive5.1Gamer, and my P5K-E/W has onboard sound too. A few hundred more.

Then a $400+ vid card. To play Farcry. I'm only 1/3 way through that. I wanna get out of this alive. I'll buy wow finally, ok.

I bought Vista! HP RF, 32. Ask what you can buy for Vista!

With all the other goodies put off I could go out and put my new pc together a lot sooner, without being so curious. I can't even imagine breakin' it up. I'm scared to ask. So, again....
 
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I would expect that I'll get some component or other that will cause a halt a little bump away before from the edge of overclocking bliss. Then each of these components cannot be all equally overclockable. It would be luck any other way. The there is the whole safe overclocking level of the "package deal". I just don't know what is a "safe" 24/7 stable also. A good statistician would. I think I'm gonna save me some money cuz I wanna and I think the gaps between A:B:C aren't worth trying to fill - right, maybe.

Makes sense for me now: save money, regroup, reprioritize, reorder, forget, and hopefully be able to get out of the pull of this crap cycle. Not to mention the noise is driving me crazy. Its like I'm trying to avoid creating the museum in my storage locker, but I'm not very good at it.
 
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