Not very hot really. Some people use heatspreaders and things of that nature which do help a little. But quite honestly, until DDR RAM starts to get up into the PC3000 range it won't get very hot...at all.
I have PC2100 and they don't get very hot. I put some heat spreaders for the fun of it really. I can touch them usually and not burn myself. Didn't notice any difference in anything.
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