My TH7-II Raid/P4 2.4mhz OC story....

For those of you interested, thought I'd track my progress of OCing the P4 2.4a on the TH7-II Raid. And of course, I'm looking for help!!

PC-1 SYSTEM:
ABIT TH7-II Raid (BIOS 7e by Mr.Natural)
Pentium4 2.4mhz Northwood 512k Malay Build
-Swiftech MCX478 HS w/YS Tech 80x80x25 3000rpm fan (AS3)
2x256mb Kingston Valueram RIMM 16bit (Slot 1&2)
Enermax 465watt PS EG465P-VE FCA
Evercase Full Tower File server ATX
-Intake: 120cm Fan Front, 2x80cm Fans front drive bay
-Out: 92cm Fan rear (2x92cm fans built into PS)
USB1-Microsoft Office Keyboard
USB2-Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical 6000/pps
WindowsXP Professional

PERIPHERALS/SLOTS:
AGP Slot -Gainward 750XP GS GF4 Ti4600 (Nvidia 29.40 driver)
PCI Slot1- Empty
PCI Slot2- Adaptec 29160 UW160SCSI
- HD SCSI 36,7GB Seagate Cheetah X15-36LP,15k RPM, 3,6ms, 8MB cache
- HD SCSI 36,7GB Quantum Ultra160, 68pin, 10k RPM
- Cdrom SCSI-SE Plextor writer 8/2/20 SCSI
- DVD SCSI-SE DVD Toshiba
PCI Slot3 – empty
PCI Slot4- D-Link DFE530TX 10/100 PCI - RJ45
PCI Slot5- CreativeLabs Audigy PlatinumEX
All HD/FD cables are rounded

OUTBOARD:
Philips 201P Brilliance 21” Monitor
Zyxel Prestige 645R ADSL Router
Altec Lansing 5+1 Surround Speakers
Cannon BJ printer

Coming off a crazy wild ride of a Dual-Athlon system I'm really impressed by the ease of setup and PlugnPlayability of this board. Took me nothing to set it up and install windows. Not even one crash or cold boot problem or BSOD until I've attempted OCing. I waited to change the stock HSF with the Swiftech MCX478 before trying any serious OCing. I did take the Delta fan (can't stand them for the noise) and stuck a 3k rpm YS Tech 80cm fan on. Last night after I got the MCX478 installed, not a simple easy process, I tried a few OC's and have to say that I'm not impressed so far. Most people would say, "Why do you need to OC a P4 2.4???", but I know that those of you out there on this board can fully understand why. BECAUSE I CAN!!!!! Or at least I hope I will be able to


OC STORY SO FAR:
FSB: 105-110fsb (see below)
CPU: 24x100
CPU voltage: tried 1.50-1.70 found no differences except temps
RDRAM Bus Frequency: always left on AUTO
AGP timing: FIX setting BSODs me in WinXP everytime, 2/3 works OK to 108fsb
IDLE TEMP: 40°-42°
LOAD TEMP: 48°-51° (should go down once AS3 settles)

At 105FSB-2/3 - I can run all day, all games, stable as a rock
At 105FSB-FIX - boot fine, get BSOD when windows loads.
At 108FSB-2/3 - I boot fine, run fine. Doesn't seem superstable
At 110FSB-FIX - boot fine, get BSOD when windows loads.
At 110FSB-2/3 - I boot ok, windows crashes (BSOD or reset).
At 115FSB-2/3 - I have trouble POSTing

Any ideas why can’t I run FIX? Does this BIOS setting "FIX" keep the PCI bus at 66MHz also, or just the AGP? If I can’t keep the FSB down on the AGP/PCI bus I’ll never get my OC up…..

Arrrghhh!!!!!!!

More later as I have time to play around with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Try using official 7C. It is reported to handle the fixed setting fine. It keeps PCI AND AGP in spec.

Perhaps you have a bad model of the P4. The stock clock is pretty high. Could be that you need more voltage right from the start.

Try 1.6v and 110FSB, fix setting.

Merkor

THE BSOD GOES AWAY AFTER YOU BOOT UP THE COMPUTER AND PRESS RESET, HOW EVER THE OFFICAL BIOS 7C FIXED THE PROBLEM WITH FIXED PCI AND COLD BOOT

FOR ALL TESTS
BIOS: th7h_7c.bin

Gainward GF4 Ti4600 750XP GS
Driver: Nvidia 29.20
Clock: 319.5MHz
Memory: 715.5MHz
FastWright Enabled
SideBanding Enabled


SOFT MENU SETTINGS
User Defined 24x
CPU/PCI 110/33
AGPCLK FIX (66MHz)
Speed Error Hold Disabled
Core Voltage 1.60v
RDRAM Auto 6x

Result: Post ok, PC resets before WinXp shows signs of life

Same as above with Core Voltage 1.65v
Result: Post ok, PC resets while WinXp loading screen

Same as above with Core Voltage 1.70v
Result: Post OK, WinXP loads ok
Idle Temps (sys/CPU/GF4) - 34/48/37
Load Temps (sys/CPU/GF4) - 37/57/43
MBM: 5.03v, 11.98v, 3.34v CPU 1.66v, 2652MHz
SANDRA Arithmetic 5129 1385/3225
SANDRA MultiMedia 10536/12832
SANDRA Memory 2777/2773
3DMark2001SE 12,255


Same as Above with 115x24
POST ok- windows file system missing
POST ok- windows file system missing
POST- can't enter bios setup (20 times....)
finally was able to reset bios to 100x24 after @15 minutes of unplugging and restarting, resetting, booting with insert held down, etc etc.... in other words a serious NO GO


SOFT MENU SETTINGS
User Defined 24x
CPU/PCI 109/36.33
AGPCLK 2/3 (72.66MHz)
Speed Error Hold Disabled
Core Voltage 1.70v
RDRAM Auto 6x

POST ok, WinXp ok
Idle Temps (sys/CPU/GF4) - 35/50/36
Load Temps (sys/CPU/GF4) - 38/58/43
MBM: 5.03v, 11.98v, 3.34v CPU 1.66v, 2652MHz
SANDRA Arithmetic 5085 1373/3197
SANDRA MultiMedia 10434/12712
SANDRA Memory 2752/2743
3DMark2001SE 12,169


SUMMARY of 1st round of OCing

I'm not really impressed yet. While my overall performance if pretty darn good stock, I'd like to see a little better OCing. As you can see from my system I've got pretty high performance parts all the way around that I think makes OCing a little harder. Most everything is already at a stressed level. is. UW160 SCSI, GF4 Ti4600, etc

Even with the FIX on, my SCSI drives made a funny noise when I tried to run at 115x24 (2760MHz) and once the system ran a few seconds I couldn't get into the BIOS to bring it back down. By the time I had the option to enter BIOS (delete key) something went wacky and my BIOS was either a blank screen (either black or blue with one line on the bottom) or garbled characters. It would run through everything ok until Windows told me I had a missing system.ini. The few times I got the correct BIOS screen it blocked once the SCSI drives spun up. Makes me think the problem could be insufficient power to the CPU, but I'm just guessing.

Seeing as I need 1.7v to get WinXP to load at 110x24 makes me think I've gotta get the CPU core voltage higher, or keep the CPU cooler, or both. I've ordered the Prometeia from http://www.chip-con.com/cooler.asp which should keep the CPU @ -14° Celsius. Hopefully then I'll be able to get a good OC from this 2.4a.

boy you got a very nice set up going there. i would however ditch the 2.4 chip, and get a 1.6a. with what you got you should be able to get to atleast 2600, and your system would be sweet. i have heard nothing but horror stories from people trying to overclock those overpriced 2.4 chips. i would get the 1.6a.

Sounds like a bios problem.

To me it sounds like a bios problem. Seems like for some reason, the fix feature is not using for you. I had a similar problem with the 38 bios. Any kind of fsb I get BSOD or my scsi Plextor burner don't read cd. So I decide to run stock for a month (can't overclock). Then I noticed Mr. Natural's 7D bios. It fixed the fix feature. I am currently running 119FSB at 4x memory setting with default voltage. Wait until the next bios update. The 2.4a is new and may need a newer bios. Just my $.02.

Hi,
I have a P4 2.0 a @2.4GHz with the "FIX" problem...but since have always run the bus at 40/80 or 41.5/83 historically, am running 120mhz FSB at 40/80 (3dMark 11526) and am running 1.66 volts (MrNatural-7E-set @ 1.7)(cooler this way!)with Tornado 7+ and 2.72v VRIMM mod with the little clip "thingie" and a ...90mm blowhole tube to feed cool outside air directly to 6000rpm fan (3 deg cooler cpu temp this way) (got it from plycon.com) and fan on 1gig of 411 rated SyncMax PC800 running at 480 (960). SuperPi has no problem and can run 3dMark continuously OK...Sandra FPU burnin continuous maxes cputemp @ 48.5 (ambient is 76F- air conditioned-Florida) have a 90cm 6000rpm fan @4200 rpm as main exhaust with Coolermaster 210 case...big fan blowing on PNY GF4 4600.and 2 big ones on memory and 6105? (forget the number-voltage VRIMM chip and DRCG's) 3 other intake fans on the CM. Idle is 39.5,38,40F cpu/MB/PS Antec 450. 5 volt line is @5 volt and stable. Had to fool with this thing for 1.5 months to get it like this.......... so keep heart....

I think there's a 2.6 out already?

I just looked at the Intel website. It appears that the 2.53 gig P-4 is still the fastest processor that is currently being produced. As for BIOS, I'd stay with the 7E with that 2.4 Northy if I were you. Sounds like you need more cooling and more voltage. I went through similar headaches until I add cooling mods and wire wrapped the VID pins.

Thanks guys.
I'd like to do the Vid Mod, but am afraid to wrap the wires. I know I'll break something.
I can't find the "defogger repair" or anything similiar in my area....
went to 4 automotive supply stores and nothing. I went to 3 electronics stores and nothing. In a hardware store I found liquid solder, but it dries to a soft goo that's easy to smear so that's no good.

Guess I'll just try to OC with sub-zero cooling on Saturday. I'm afraid once I get the darn Prometeia around the CPU I won't want to take it off to eventually do CPU Vid Mod. Looks like I'll eventually have to Vmod the board if I want to pump up the volts.

Anyone have any ideas where I can get the Pots/defogger/etc in Europe? I have till Saturday when I install the Prometeia (www.chip-con.com). I'm willing to pay well!

Try running the ram at 3x and upping the FSB and Vcore... Don't be scared to go to 1.75 Vcore.. (I ran mine at 1.9 for over 2 weeks with air cooling was fine)

Though I have a feeling that the northy A core is maxed at 2.6-8 with air cooling.. the B core could go to 3+ but BOSD would suggest ram is at fault..

I ran Memtest-86 20 times with no errors at 109fsbx24 on Sunday. I think the RIMMram is ok, but I'll try

Maybe try the pin hole connector method. Locate the socket holes that VID pin #3 and #4 go into, then drop a tiny piece of wire that is "U" shaped down into the holes. Pop the CPU back in and that should give you 1.7v default, plus give you more BIOS settings above that too. It's much easier than the wire wrap. I did the pin hole method first, but I was greedy and still wanted more voltage, so I did the 4 pin wire wrap for 1.85v modified default instead.

Be very careful with the pin hole connector: if your wire is too thick, you risk breaking up the CPU pins when inserting or removing it as the hole will now be too tight. If the wire is too thin, it might not be enough to conduct the required current.

The pin wrap method is not without its problem either: it adds a layer between the socket and CPU which means it might not be seated properly.

The safest is not to use any CPU pin mod, but use Mr Natural 40B bios if you can live with the cold boot or overvoltage problem. For me it only happens when I power up my PC for the first time or I change the OC settings; one hit on the reset switch and I am through The 40b gives you a vcore up to 1.85v, which is the safest recommended voltage for the northwood. A few people have reported problems after having run their northwood over this voltage.

If 1.85v is not enough, do the POT vmod on the TH7-II: this will give you a true 1.85v vcore, and not 1.7_v. A search for "POT vmod" in this forum should return some useful results

Thanks again guys. I was probably going to just leave it be and eventually do the Vmod with POT to the board, however I found the Circuit Works Pen here in Italy - in fact, only around half an hour's drive from home. They should deliver it tomorrow so I'll be able to do Mr. Natural's VoltMod before I put that rubber hermatically sealing compound over my CPU.
This place RS Components has most everything: Pomona Grabbers, POTs, etc etc.

I'm afraid you guys have send me off the deep end of consumer PC usage into the realm of the ....

DARK OVERCLOCKing

YEAH MAN!!!! The 2.4 OC's just fine with proper cooling and volting. I'm sure this chip will go higher. Yeah, it may not offer the percentage gains of the 1.6, but I'm starting to like this chip!

Well, I finally got the Prometeia connected and running (I broke an Abit TH7-II Raid on the first mounting attempt and just got the new MB last night).

Here's a shot of the PC Health Status on the first bootup (at default speeds)




The front panel of the Prometeia shows -40° and as you can see the CPU core is at -20°. Not bad! Of course, this is before OCing or stress, but impressive all the same.

I also did the VoltMod with the conductive pen, but just pins 3&4... no balls I figure I probably don't want to be running more than 1.90v and I know that if I can push it more I will. Thus I force myself to avoid the temptation.

Here are some quick temps with the CPU at 3011mhz and the Bios Voltage at 1.90v. The probe is on one of the memory chip of GF4. ABSOLUTELY NO EXTRA cooling/fans other than the 80cm intake fan and the 92cm output fan on the case (and the Enermax 465 output fan).



I brought it right up to 125fsb in 5fsb increments with absolutely no problem at all. I had to up the volts obviously, but there were no glitches anywhere. I kept the Ram at 400 and the PCI/AGP at FIX. I had a clanwar for UnrealTournament and didn't want to risk crashes during the match. When I have time to screw around with it, I'll push it more.






I had to drop the FSB to 123 to finish 3DMarkSE




To go higher, I think I need to:
Put some better cooling on my GF4. Either better RamSinks or fans or both...
Put a fan on the Northbridge. I just put AS3 and didn't have time to fit a fan.
Maybe a little fan on the Ram?

Any other ideas to help me get into the big time?

I am very pleased that the Prometeia is performing well enough.

I'm still waiting for my own to get here.

Any details about the Prometeia?

The Prometeia is quieter than my old fan-based system. It's not silent, but with the 120cm fans it's not bothersome at all.

The mounting procedure is kindof tough. Be very, very careful. I can't stress that enough. I broke my MB (little ICs) on the first try. The second went smooth as silk. Put extra washers/spacers on the spring screw to get better contact with the CPU. You see my temps- nothing at all to complain about there. Under serious load with max OC (125x24) my CPU temp got as high as +10°, but normal temps remain generally sub-zero. Also, I just installed it yesterday and my experience has always been that after a few days the AS3 sets and the temp drops a few degrees. Hopefully it'll drop a few degrees in the coming days. My GF4 needs some cooling though.... Wish they made a PrometeiaJr for the GPU)

Overall I'm very very pleased and would definitely reccomend it to anyone. Especially someone who hates the Delta Screamers like me, but wants the ultimate in performance.

Oh, also you want to mount an intake 80cm fan (?? or 92cm I don't remember) in the space on the front of the case. It gives you awesome airflow throughout the case. Again, be very very careful with the install and take your time to do it right.

awesome james.