I just ordered http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50 for my catleap. Gonna be up to 11 business days before it gets here and I can get it in my monitor. Just wondering if anyone here has done a pcb swap yet? If not I'll try to take pictures when I get it done, though there are some YouTube guides for it.
Yeah I was thinking about just getting a qnix and trying my luck because overlord charges 199 for this pcb, but for 89 I'm willing to try the pcb swap since I know my current panel has low backlight bleed and perfect pixels.
My understanding people were having REALLY good luck with the QNIX. Mine is doing 95hz. 100 I start to get little green lines. Anything north of 80 is really noticeable. But that's a cool little upgrade.
PCB came in today, just finished installing it. Took approximately 3 hours, but now that i know how to do it i could probably get it done in 90 minutes. Hardest part is just getting the bezel off without dinging it up too badly. Mine now has a couple of small gouges from where i was prying with a flat head screwdriver to pop the plastic clips.
Which is very heavy duty, i was suprised. It easily supports the monitor, and can adjust the base of the monitor anywhere from just off the desk top to about 8-9 inches of clearance. No wobble, no lean, quite solid construction. As seen here
So, dissasembly. There are 8 screws on the backside of the monitor, one in each corner, and two centered top and bottom. After you get those 8 screws out its just a matter of popping off the bezel. If you want it to stay pristine, i suggest using something like those plastic shoehorn kits designed for popping apart the interior of new cars, i used a flat head screw driver which led to
After you have that off, there are four screws holding the lcd panel to the back of the casing. The picture i took of this came out terrible since its shiny metal so yeah, just four screws, two on either side.
Then you flip unit over and you can pull off the back of the monitor, but the pcb is mounted to the plastic but has delicate wires running to the lcd panel still, so go slowly. This is what the back panel will look like once separated, those loose connections went to the lcd. All unplugged with no real fuss.
Next you pop off that shield guarding one of the two boards we are replacing. I also removed the stand assembly at the bottom since i was changing it. Just a couple of extra screws for that.
Here we see the new board next to the old one, as well as the second pcb that goes on the lcd panel. View attachment 141346
For the catleap, it is a straight bolt on replacement. Im not sure about the other variants, so do some research or roll the dice. I do know the guy selling the pcb says it will work with all of monitors based off the same lg panel, but he also wasnt sure if you would have to fabricate your own mounting system for the pcb.
The kit came with a new button pcb as well, it was not the same size as my button pcb, but they looked like they shared the same cord type and what looked to be the same pinout so i kept mine. It works View attachment 141347
Ok, now that we have finished the larger pcb swap, now for the longer one that goes on the back of the lcd panel itself. View attachment 141348
Just remove the 4 screws holding down this shield to expose the pcb seen below View attachment 141349
Again, not the greatest picture here, but these two ribbon cables, there is a small black flap that presses down across the top of the cable. You just flip it up and they pull right out.View attachment 141350
Next up is putting in the new pcb, and you actually get a slightly better view of the black strip that holds in that top ribbon cable.view
If you look at it you will notice two things. First is that it has a much more solid set of connectors on the bottom, locking plastic clips instead of the super delicate ribbon cable. This means it was easier to put the monitor back together than to take apart which is always nice.
Second is that there are two big glops of silicone or glue or something on the board. When people first started overclocking these things, some of them developed a buzz at high hz, the fix was to glop something onto the board, im assuming whats under that white stuff as mine doesnt seem to buzz.
One last thing, mine came with a new cable that replaces the solid bundle of white cables you see in some of the pictures. I didnt use it because it could plug into the backlight two different ways
It isnt keyed and i didnt want to blow out my backlight. The old cable worked fine on the new pcb and was keyed at both ends so it couldnt be hooked up backwards.
Ok, now put it all back together and you have upgraded the pcb on your monitor to an overclockable variant.
Yeah im happy with it so far. Had a bit of a weird issue when i turned back on my overclock though. Seems like 120hz or 1200/1500 is fine, but not 120hz and 1200/1500. I would get lines, distortion, and occasionally the monitor would break up into 4 1280x720 windows. So far so good at 120hz and 1150/1300.
Yeah but now I'm really going to need that second 290 I had convinced myself I didn't need. After a bit of playing left4dead at 120fps I want all of my games to look like that!
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