JBweld / Epoxy strength for WB

hey all, my second post!! k neways, how reliable is JBweld or Epoxy when you are trying to keep a WB together? im trying to build as cheap a Watercooling system as possible-- around $100... (dont have a mill, torch or anything, just me old trusty one-speed dremel)

I plan to get a:
maxijet 900 (i think this is better than the 1200 because efficiency)
chevvete heatercore with the the glad-tupperware thing shroud...
clearflex 1/2 in tubing
2 120mm panaflo fans
and errm all the other necessary items such as fans...

also how should i plumb my system with the above items if i plan to run a gpu cooler in addition to the cpu?

For my waterblock, i plan to do the PopCan waterblock as shown on this site, but with the base modified for more surface area etc... any suggestions/comments on this?

Alright guys thanks time to go to sleep early for exams tomorrow... cya

the maxi-jet 900 is a good choice and I chose it for the same reason as you as for JB weld it will work just fine (I have used it from putting the barbs on my heater core to sealing my blocks) and here is my cheap guide on how to do a water block that I came up with it may help you a bit for what your doing or if you want to build a square water block another time

Safety glasses (you’ll thank me the first time you snap a cutting disk)
Copper bar stock (C110 if you can get it) in the size of you block
Poly or copper flat stock for top
Barbs
JB weld
Torch w/ solder and flux
Vise grip clamps (for holding the block for holding / soldering)
Drill press or steady hands and a good hand drill to make the holes and patterns
Vise to hold work while you drill or Dremel
Dremel w/tips depends what you’re going to make for a design (cut off blades for slots / wire wheels to de-bug / grinders well you get the idea)
“Sharp” drill bits (the sharper the better, people don’t realize how important it is for a good clean cut)
Screws if you don’t want to solder
Center punch
O-rings (don’t use O-rings when soldering as they melt )
A tap(s) with a lassy or tap wrench for the barbs any and screws

Now the process of how you want to cut your block is up to you. I like to blue the block (dye it blue or use a marker to mark it blue - so now every cut will show) and scribe my block design on it
1) Blue the block and mark out all the drill points (including screw holes) using a center punch it will help you keep the drill from walking when you first start the hole
2) Lock the block in the vise
3) Set it in your drill press and start drilling (always mark your drill bits with tape so you don’t go in too far or if you have a stop use it)
4) Mark the locations of your cuts (if any)
5) Chose your cutting tool and have at it (take your time and think it out before you start hacking at the block)
6) Use the wire wheels to clean it up
7) If you have screw holes you can thread them now
8) I do a light lap on the top after you do a soft countersink on any holes (the dye will all be gone when your done lapping)

Now you need to make the top
For a copper top
1) Dye it too, mark the locations of your screw holes, barb holes and the locations for the mobo holes
**These locations are the ones I use and are approximate there may be others**
a. Socket 478 is 59.44mm X 76.2mm
b. Socket 423 is 38.1mm X 81.28mm
c. Socket “A” is 36.14mm X 66.09mm
2) Put it in the vise and do the same as the base of the block
3) Countersink then lap lightly to de-bug the base of the top cover so it will match the water block with out gaps
For a Poly top
1) Use a jig saw to cut to size and sand the edges or use a soldering iron (set to about 325 degrees F)
2) Mark the locations of your screw holes, barb holes and the mobo hole locations with a marker
3) Put in vise and drill it
4) Clean the drilled holes with a razor or a countersink

Installing the top
Copper top with JB weld
1) Cut your barbs to length (Dremel works good) add JB weld to the threads of the barbs (a tooth pick works well) and screw them into the top plate let stand overnight
2) Grind or sand down any overhang on the inside of the covers
3) Apply JB weld to the “base” of the block (a tooth pick works well) in the locations the top would touch it.
4) Now put the top on and clamp it or add weight on top (“direct” up and down pressure) leave it overnight

Test your block in a sink with the pump to see if it will leak if it dose sand and apply a thin coat of JB weld
If you made a block with screw holes just put in the O-ring in and screw it down
For JB weld mix the epoxy put it on the out Line it up and clamp it down with the vise grip

Poly top
1) Test fit and cut the barbs to size
2) Use clear silicone sealant around the threads of the barbs and screw them in (allow recommended time to cure before going onto next step)
3) Put O-ring in the block / or use clear silicone sealant over the top of the block
4) Screw the top to the base and test for leaks if any you can use the same clear sealant from the barbs and coat the o-ring with it and screw it down and let cure then re-test

*Soldering with a torch I feel is a hands on learning experience type of thing (especially seeing there are some real young kids in here)


**Well that’s the jist of it any add on or what evers are welcome

Is there a sticky like this? cuz if there isn't *STICKY* it up!!!! nice reply! that helped me a lot man, thanx

here are two pics of how I used JB weld
heater core and block

JB Weld is great. You can use it instead of bolts or solder and it is fine, I have a maxi-jet 1000 with JBwelded fittings on it, as well as a JBweld assembled waterblock. No leaks or anything. It's great.

If you are trying to do it on the cheap, take your time, as if you come up with an idea, mod something, and it goes wrong or doesn't work in the end, your costs go up. and you will find a load of scrap in daily life if you take your time that will be useful for some part of your cooling. I've saved about €40 ($40) doing this on my system.

Yes, JB-weld is good stuff. I use it to attach hose barbs to radiators, and I recently converted a rad from 3/8 to 1/2" barbs. While removing the barbs from the radiator, the factory soldered joints failed before the JB-weld joints failed. Just follow the instructions on the package for mixing and application, and you'll be fine.

Is JBWeld waterproof ie in a res?

Is it good at very low temps ie -20c?

jbweld is nuts! I jbed a barb on my maxijet and I CANNOT get it off! Im gonna have to take a saw to it or something,

thx for the info guys--so if i use a 2"x3" base, i will be able to use the 4 mounting holes for an amb mobo right?

that wb building was very helpful--thx alot

ok, umm.......... "PopCan waterblock" Is that a a gag name for something or is it really out of a pop-can?

its realy out of a pop can u can see it on the watercooling section of this site... you cut out the bottom of the cpke/mountaidew/wahtever can and use that as the top of your waterblock its a good idea i think, i think ill get a 1/4" base and cut it up a bit with my dremel and a cutoff wheel for more SA

gastro54 said:

thx for the info guys--so if i use a 2"x3" base, i will be able to use the 4 mounting holes for an amb mobo right?

that wb building was very helpful--thx alot

Click to expand...

Yes it will be fine as long as your motherboard has no caps in the way. I myself used a 2" X 2" X 3/4" base with 2" X 3" X 1/8" cover for that reason, and if you don't have holes in the motherboard a 2" X 2" top and bottom would work better with a socket connector

oh, and does anyone know of a can with a smaller dome so that i could use it for the vid card? i bought an energy drink (the cans are thinner) but the domes were exactly the same size as a regualr can


thnx stedeman, what are all the screw parts i need to keep the block down? im making a trip to home depot tomorro to get the basic stuff

btw, i have an epox 8rda+ on its way here... any special clearance issues know for that mobo?

you could use a copper end cap for pipes, you can get them at HD they may give you better temps as for screws you will need 4 2"+ screws, 12 washers, 4 nuts and 4 springs

do you know what size screws, washers, nuts, springs to get?

never owened a 4 hole mobo b4, my current comp is a P3..... from compaq..... BUT not for long!
i got this computer 2 years ago when i didnt know what a motherboard was he.. he... he..

good idea on the copper endcap

ok i figured out how im going to mount it, when to the hardware store and bought all the stuff i need and i was check out the drill presses on ebay and didnt think they would be soo checp so ive decided to get one and make a black using that. im going with a 2"x3"x1/2" base and a 2"x3"x3/8" top im going to join them using JB weld.

For the top do i just get a 1/2" bit and drill the holes then thread them?

EDIT: im goignt to use aluminum for the top because of cost-- i dont thing this will have a significant impact on performance seeing as how many people use plastic as their tops

For the top: Use a 7/16" drill bit to tap 1/4 NPT. You should be able to buy both the 1/4 NPT tap and 1/4 NPT barbs at a hardware store.

Using a plain aluminum top will cause corrosion in your system.
There are many threads on this topic, just do a quick search if you want to see what can happen, and how quickly. Anodizing the aluminum will stop this corrosion. Otherwise, you should dissasemble the system at least every 4 months to ensure that it is still safe (a leak can be very expensive.) To get around this, either use a copper top or have the aluminum anodized.

hmmm ic ihad no iea abuot that--thx for te info, are there any other metlas that are cheaper than copper but will do the job wihtout any special treatment? iff not, ill just go with copper

brass would cause a little bit of corrosion but not much. Your best bet is to stick with all copper. If you go with an all copper top, it's only gonna cost maybe $5 more than an aluminum top, and that's a very cheap insurance policy for your computer.