Prescott watercooling project...help plz

Ok my project is to reach 4ghz with watercooling.

I will buy a 3.2E D0 stepping...(wish me luck)
And would also like cooling my X800Pro

SO

I want you to help me decide what will be better for my project.Here is what I have (my current watercooling on a 3.0C on P4p800se)

Hydor L30
D-tek WW waterblock
6" X 8" heatercore (chevette)
10" X 8" heatercore (new and not used for now)

My plan is to make a external watercooling Box, so space isn't a issue!

I will change my L30 for a better pump, I'm looking:

-DD 12V pump
-MCP600 rev 2
-Dual CSP750

For the waterblocks:

CPU: keep the WW or get a swiftech 6002?
GPU: I think the best for me is DD maze 4 GPU because of the 1/2" ID, the swiftech mcw50 is 1/2" OD right?

For the heatercores:

running just the bigger one or the 2 in paralel ?

So everything is here....so I have multiple options!

I really want to reach 4 ghz on a prescott and have lot of heat to deal with, so go ahead and give me some advices!

(BTW my motherboard is an Abit IC7 Max-3)

Better get a pelt if you plan to push a prescott to 4ghz and beyond. I have 4 rads in my case and can't stay stable at 3.9ghz with my prescott. Not that I need to go to 3.9ghz or even 4ghz. I'm happy with the oc I'm getting.

jenkx, is your prescott a D0 stepping or a C0?? Because I heard that D0 stepping are better overclockers, that was I'm betting on a 3.2E.

I really don't want to use a pelt .....

It's a C0. If you get a D0 and push it past 4ghz on water then I'll put a little money into a D0

I will give you some feedback when it's done!

But for now need to make decision.

Are you really need 4 rads for your setup?? What is your WB/Pump/rads...temps?

I have a BIX II for the CPU and a BIX for the GPU. I had 2 80mm rads in a previous setup that I threw into my current setup just before the NB. If you have not seen my current setup then go back a few pages and look for the tread, "Project: Water Cooling to the Max" there you'll see just what I'm talking about.

Ok yes I remember your thread! Awesome setup! So I would be better with 2 pumps and 2 heatercore..right?

As for 2 pump, I am better with 2 mcp600 or 2 DD 12V??

DD D4=mcp650 which are better than mcp600

Not all 3.2E's are D0 either so don't be disappointed if you get a C0.

nikhsub1 said:

Not all 3.2E's are D0 either so don't be disappointed if you get a C0.

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Yeah I know that, so I will make sure I order the stepping I want. (I think the only stepping that is D0 is SL7KC


About the pump, I'm unable to find some canadian shop that have mcp650...so about the DD 12V..is it noisy vs swiftech (mcp600)? Because I will prefer 2 mcp600 over 2 DD 12V if they are quieter.

Charloz24 said:

About the pump, I'm unable to find some canadian shop that have mcp650...so about the DD 12V..is it noisy vs swiftech (mcp600)? Because I will prefer 2 mcp600 over 2 DD 12V if they are quieter.

Click to expand...

Don't have the mcp600 but do own the DD D4 and I can only hear a small hum when I get close to about 4-5 inches. That is with the case open. My panaflo's with 35dba just drown out the noise of D4 during normal operation.

Ok then I prolly go with 2X DD D4, if this is not overkill. If the performance diff between 1 and 2 pump in series justify it....

Other question: the setup: pump1-pump2-split-HC1/HC2- split - CPU- GPU
In that way, by cooling the GPU after the CPU will affect the GPU cooling? I mean, the CPU will produce a heck lot of heat in water...just before the gpu...

Charloz24 said:

In that way, by cooling the GPU after the CPU will affect the GPU cooling? I mean, the CPU will produce a heck lot of heat in water...just before the gpu...

Click to expand...

Technically (meaning, on paper) it makes a difference. But in practice, the difference turns out to be ~.2c max. Aside from this difference falling well within the detectable margin of error, it's so small that creating a loop that minimizes tubing length and head loss while maximizing flowrate generally produces better temps across the entire loop.

Do a search for some of Cathar's posts, or posts about "radiator placement" or "rad before block?" etc.

The short answer: Yes, it makes a difference, but keep your tubing short and clean and you should be able to overcome that difference

I'm using 2 pumps in my system, one Hydor L30, and another "unknown" pump that puts out more than the Hydor.

I chill my water, plus, I use a Swiftech MCX5002-PT, and can barely make 3.9 on my Prescott 3.0. Its going to be tougher on that 3.2 .

I would use at least 2 "heater cores", a serious output fan, such as a 150mm that can deliver above 200CFM so it can be turned down to reduce noise. I would also recommend using a pelt for the CPU, or chill the water/anti-freeze somewhere around freezing.

If you can combine the chilled water and the pelt, it will work better. The problem with using the pelt is that the temps will vary greater using it, than they will using only a standard water block. Average change for pelt block seems to be around 20-25C, versus 8-10C on just water.

Theres something to think about in that itself, due to the fact that less extreme temp changes mean greater stability.

If possible, you may want to buy a chiller, or make your own like I have, and do some serious cooling with it. The problem with chilled water will be condensation on your lines and waterblocks, so make sure that if you do this, your ready for it to sweat, meaning, seal that stuff up really good, or say bye-bye to some gear really fast.


I prefer the chiller+pelt, simply because I can regulate my water temps to what I want them to attain the temp I need for the CPU. I can get my water cold enough to bring temps down to -10C, or let it run with no chilling, and maintain temps of about 15C at idle.

If I get in a pinch and need more cooling, I just pop some ice in my chiller unit to cool things down to where I need them, and presto, back in the saddle again.

The ideal setup would be to have the ability to seal the lines, and blocks off, and then use super chilled water so that temps maintain no more than possibly 10C variation from idle to load. Thats what I'm working on currently, so wish me luck. I've already done it, but the condensation cost me 2 serious cards, and a mobo, so in comes the pelt until I get a handle on the condensation issue.

I live in the deep south USA, so humidity is a seroius concern here, your area may not be as bad, depending on the average humidity in your area. There are ways to stop the condensation, but it takes lots of work to do it, and if you screw up just once, things can get ugly fast.

Also, if your going to link the GPU and CPU in the system, be sure to run the fresh water in to the GPU first, then the CPU. The CPU of course will generate far more heat than the GPU, especially if it has a pelt on it. Thats the reason for running 2 pumps for me. The water coming out of the pelt can get warm, and cause the temps on the GPU to rise with it, so I run mine completely seperate.

Wow! That was a lot of info Prome! Meanwhile, I'm interested in high end watercooling, but not more. I am not ready for extreme cooling. Don't want to crap out an expensive motherboard, and graphic card.

So this all mean that I will require LUCK and more LUCK for a good prescott I think!

Ok for now I have ordered the fans:

6 sanko denki 120mm comming!

About the pump, I'm unable to find some canadian shop that have mcp650...so about the DD 12V..is it noisy vs swiftech (mcp600)? Because I will prefer 2 mcp600 over 2 DD 12V if they are quieter.

Click to expand...

I have two MCP600's in my setup and I can't hear them at all unless I put my ear directly on them, and how often are you going to be doing that? I would only imagine that the MCP650 is just as quiet. So if you prefer Swiftech than go for the MCP's

If you put two heatercores in your system I would put one before the CPU and one after the CPU right before the GPU Especially if you are trying to overclock your GPU to extreme speeds as well. If you're going to use two pumps than the extra length of the tubing is not that much of a problem. However I honestly don't believe you'll get that Prescott to 4ghz on straight water unless its the dead of winter in a northern state or territory.

Don't get me wrong I'd love to see you do it but I don't think it’s possible no matter what stepping the chip is. Prove me wrong.

I know that hit 4 ghz will be hard! But at least if I get over 3.8 I will be happy.

It's not that I prefer swiftech over DD, but if, performance and noise, are just the same, I will take the cheaper!

Charloz24 said:

I know that hit 4 ghz will be hard! But at least if I get over 3.8 I will be happy.

It's not that I prefer swiftech over DD, but if, performance and noise, are just the same, I will take the cheaper!

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I am in the same boat as you Charloz24. I notice that these chips have a "FINE LINE" as far as temps go. It seems that if you can keep it under about 47-50 degrees, at least for my chip, it is happier. I am also looking at water cooling to hit 4 GHZ

On those Sanyo Denki fans you got, I was also looking at some. What is the decibal rating and CFM rating on those?

Let me know what you decide on and how it works out!!!

Thanks,
Ed

ed.howell said:

I am in the same boat as you Charloz24. I notice that these chips have a "FINE LINE" as far as temps go. It seems that if you can keep it under about 47-50 degrees, at least for my chip, it is happier. I am also looking at water cooling to hit 4 GHZ

On those Sanyo Denki fans you got, I was also looking at some. What is the decibal rating and CFM rating on those?

Let me know what you decide on and how it works out!!!

Thanks,
Ed

Click to expand...

The decibal rating of Sanyo Denki is 39 db and put out 102 CFM

I'm not 100% sure at this time, but check this (need opinion please)

I think the seting could be: pump1 ->HC 1-> CPU - > pump2 -> HC2 -> GPU -> T line -> pump 1

For the pumps I think I will choose the DD D4 because more powerfull and smaller that mcp650.

The heatercore 1 will have 4 fans (shrouded) and the heatercore 2 (chevette) will have 2 fans (shrouded).

Maybe I will exchange my D-Tek WW for a swiftech 6002 or Danger Den TDX. ( or better a cascade if I could find one !) The WW is really good, but the 2 output + Y takes some place.