swiftech mcp 355

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

right now im in the process of of leak testing my loop and it was working fine until i felt the pump and it was hot (only on for about 1/2 hour) so i turned it off. now when i goto start it back up, its not pumping at all. my loop is swiftech micro res > mcp 355 > flow meter > apogee gt > radiator > back to resevoir. right now the pump to res and pump to inlet of apogee gt is 3/8" the rest is 1/2". im waiting for the alphacool top and a 120mm x 3 radiator to make everything 1/2". btw, some water did leak onto the pump via the maze5 (which i f'd the fittings up on

and now its garbage). should i be worried about the pump? once the system is setup, i plan to run it 24/7/365. also, my psu is 400watt, but im just running the pump and a couple of fans right now to test. do you think i need a bigger psu?

Mycobacteria · Mar 23, 2007

I hope you didnt buy your pump from Mountain mods thier warranty is only 1 moth.

If you got it from danger den, they are pros and will RMA it for you 6 months down the track.

Oh and as for trying to get parts directly from liang its like trying to milk a cat.

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

i got my maze5 block from jab-tech. the pump too. its acting really strange, like once its on, its good. but after i turn it off and then on again, its like theres no pump there. i hope its not a defective pump. seems to be over heating also. without the fans on for the rad, and only the water loop running, the tubing is noticably warm. ill try to get pics up tomorrow.

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

ok something is definately wrong here. i started the loop up again (still leak testing) and im doing something else and i smell something burning. the pump is off again. this feels like if you have a motor spinning and you hold the part thats spinning and the motor tries to keep spinning.

Moto7451 · Mar 23, 2007

Well without the fans the heat dumped by the pump may not be properly removed from the loop, especially if the rad is mounted vertically and convection isn't working well.

Edit: You should probably RMA the pump or at least open the lid to see if there's something causing the impeller to not spin.

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

ya i think i might just rma both items. its a good pump, i just probably got a faulty one.

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

well my friends. this is what happens when your an idiot like me.

should i just reorder a 355 (this time with an alphacool top) or go for the 655?

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

well since it wasnt the pump, but rather my stupidity, i ordered another pump and an alphacool top. i also ordered a swiftech 320 rad and 6 yate loons. i'll post up pics when im done.

QuietIce · Mar 23, 2007

The pics are kinda' blurry - what went wrong ...?

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

sorry about that. camera phone. some water seeped in through the bottom and that part of the pcb is burned out to a crisp. ill get better pics up after i get out of work.

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

I just want to make it clear to anyone just skimming the thread this was user error and not a manufacturer defect

Maviryk · Mar 23, 2007

Kasso, what coolant were you using?

Distilled water would have probably saved you the cost of a new pump..

Kasso · Mar 23, 2007

i was using thermaltake coolant. my next loop will be only distilled water with some hydrx, what i should have done from the beginning.

Otter · Mar 24, 2007

Kasso said:
should i just reorder a 355 (this time with an alphacool top) or go for the 655?

If you decided the 355 was the right pump for you before, I don't see how the leak changes anything.

Unless you know that something got fried, you might try cleaning up the PCB and soldering in some new traces if neccessary. It's hard to tell from the pics, but the damage might be only to the board.

Kasso · Mar 24, 2007

Otter said:
If you decided the 355 was the right pump for you before, I don't see how the leak changes anything.

Unless you know that something got fried, you might try cleaning up the PCB and soldering in some new traces if neccessary. It's hard to tell from the pics, but the damage might be only to the board.

thats actually a possibility to repair the traces. the reason i chose the 355 before was because the d5 was out of stock. but upon further investigation, i reordered the 355 w/alphacool due to lower noise levels. its probably going to be drowned out by the 6 yate loons im going to have on my mcr320

voigts · Mar 24, 2007

6 yates over just 3 is only going to net you a few single digit percent benefit. I know with the Thermochill rads this is only 3% or so, so I wouldn't expect much improvement on the Swiftech MCR 320 either. I therefore would tell you just to go with 3 yates and undervolt them on a fan controller at that. Unless you simply don't care about noise levels (which you probably do or you wouldn't be getting yates or the 355 in the first place), then don't make your setup any louder than it needs to be to achieve the performance you want. And with a fan controller you can find the sweet spot that works best for you. If noise is a concern for you, then it doesn't make sense to have 2-3 times the noise level if you only see 3c in temp improvement.

SiGfever · Mar 24, 2007

Kasso said:
I just want to make it clear to anyone just skimming the thread this was user error and not a manufacturer defect

How was this your fault? Did you disassemble the pump prior to using and fail to tighten the screws properly causing water to enter the circuit board?

But you actually saw water on the circuit board and not just a burnt board?

Kasso · Mar 24, 2007

SiGfever said:
How was this your fault? Did you disassemble the pump prior to using and fail to tighten the screws properly causing water to enter the circuit board?

But you actually saw water on the circuit board and not just a burnt board?

I didnt do anything to the pump i wasnt supposed to except not use hydrx. and yes i saw water on the pcb, and now its smoking so maybe fixing the traces wont do any good.

Kasso · Mar 24, 2007

voigts said:
6 yates over just 3 is only going to net you a few single digit percent benefit. I know with the Thermochill rads this is only 3% or so, so I wouldn't expect much improvement on the Swiftech MCR 320 either. I therefore would tell you just to go with 3 yates and undervolt them on a fan controller at that. Unless you simply don't care about noise levels (which you probably do or you wouldn't be getting yates or the 355 in the first place), then don't make your setup any louder than it needs to be to achieve the performance you want. And with a fan controller you can find the sweet spot that works best for you. If noise is a concern for you, then it doesn't make sense to have 2-3 times the noise level if you only see 3c in temp improvement.

I didnt really know that. good advice, should help me out a lot in terms of mounting the rad now. should i do three pulling or 3 pushing or any other combo?

Otter · Mar 24, 2007

Thermochill recommends pushing, however fellow enthusiasts seem to be getting better results from pulling.

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