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Have you ever unlocked an XP?

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Garfield

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Location
New Jersey
Is it hard? I'm going to have to do it in the future (I just ordered the AMD Athlon XP 1600+ today), but for now, I'm not going to worry about the multiplier (just raise the FSB). I'd like to start reading up on unlocking it, though.
 
I heard it was a *****, but bought the unlocking kit from HighSpeedPC.com for $11.99 figuring it was worth a shot... I took my very first stab at unlocking my XP 1600+ today, and have successfully unlocked the multipliers from 6.5 all the way on up!!

Right now I'm using 11.0x, but I ran perfectly stable at 1660 (12.5x133) earlier today. Just concerned about the heat up there!

You have to be patient, but it wasn't as hard as I feared!! Other than this, my only other overclocking has been on Slot A's, so even a noob can do it!!
 
I unlocked mine with the same kit that Doctor Feelgood used, and it went pretty smooth. I did it first try with all but 14 and 15 unlocked, but I don't know if I can unlock those. The only problem with the kit I used is it never dries because it uses a grease. So you have to be ever cautious of it.
 
Yes.

Permanent - Tamiya 2 Part Putty. 2 sticks of clay like substance mix/twist together then rub into the pits/slits of your XPs. Wait a few minutes to harden then bridge L1 dots with conductive ink penn. Clean & easy:beer:

Reversable - Chemask Squirt it on wait a few minutes then bridge L1 dots. Simple & fast. Great for soldering/volt mod jobs too:beer:



CW2200MTP Conductive Ink Pen

condpen.jpg
 
Doctor Feelgood said:
I heard it was a *****, but bought the unlocking kit from HighSpeedPC.com for $11.99 figuring it was worth a shot... I took my very first stab at unlocking my XP 1600+ today, and have successfully unlocked the multipliers from 6.5 all the way on up!!

Right now I'm using 11.0x, but I ran perfectly stable at 1660 (12.5x133) earlier today. Just concerned about the heat up there!

You have to be patient, but it wasn't as hard as I feared!! Other than this, my only other overclocking has been on Slot A's, so even a noob can do it!!

What's the difference beteen Slot A and Socket A? I haven't seen Slot A sold anywhere. Is it old?

So, you guys suggest a kit? That's probably what I'll do, you know? Why risk it...
 
Garfield said:
So, you guys suggest a kit? That's probably what I'll do, you know? Why risk it...
Kit's are a waste of money & do you really want grease to connect the L1 dots/bridges? If you like to live on the edge that's fine:beer: This is one of those times were the easy way is just more dangerous & 50 Million people will disagree with me here but that's just normal:D
 
Slot A is old... My point just was that I haven't unlocked any cpu's before because it's totally different between the old Slot Athlons and the newer Socket Athlons... Meaning experience isn't necessary.

The kit cost less than what I would have spent on the items I may have needed to do it more permanently, but also gives the chance of making easier changes / corrections. I like the results, and can always do it again with a more permanent method.
 
Definately checkout Stompahs FAQ, it's a tremendous help!
You can learn from some of my mistakes and the final outcome here
PM me if you need any help;)
 
Unlocked 1600+

The danger is if you cross-connect any of the L1 bridges, you'll fry the chip. Have a good light source and a magnifying glass so you can make sure the bridges have been done right.

Some methods can be a pain to get just right... the L1 contacts that you'd be connecting are very small. If they get covered over by the non-conductive pit-filler (whatever you use... clay, superglue, crayon, etc), then one or more bridges will have a bad connection and some multiplyers will work while others won't. This is why a lot of people have to unlock the chip several times to get it right.

I used crayon to fill the pits and window defogger paint to connect the bridges. It took me two tries and a total of almost 2 hours to get it right. Also, make sure to protect your cpu from static while doing this operation. Get a grounding strap.
 
Also to keep from crossing the bridges, mask them all at once. Measure the distance between, and cut your tape. "Hobby Shop" tape works better IMHO because it doesn't allow seepage under the edges, and leaves a nice straight line.
 
Garfield said:
wow...it sounds hard :D

If you do it just be careful, and take it one step at a time. Applying ASII also, if your blade slips or whatever you use to spread the ASII onto the bridges, they may connect as Arctic Silver is capcitive, so you would have to clean everything off with isopropyl very good or else thats a goner.
 
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