Corsair 500R and Thermaltake 2.0 Extreme Info

Just a heads up for those looking at the Thermaltake 2.0 Extreme that have a Corsair 500R. The Radiator is 10.3mm thicker than the H100. Didn't think that would be much of an issue, but it won't fit above the MB interferes with CPU power line, just wont bend that much and the heat sinks that are at least 1 1/2 inches tall.

Had put mine in the top tray but due to height I can't use the top cover, so I just have rad out in open, just going do push/pull setup since it out there now kind of like a hood scoop show the power


As for performance the Thermal take is great I have my set on custom curve starting at 50C to max fan at 70C. With my 3570K at 4.2Ghz at stock volts using AIDA64 for 20Min temps were between 52-56C between cores. This was in Push only config as I am waiting on my pull fans to arrive. Noise level was very low as it was only hitting the middle of my fan speed curve. Pushing to extreme the temps dropped to 48-50 under 100% load carried over few mins.

At stock clocks that temp was never even hitting 50C and kept the system silent.

I give Thermaltake for the fan control UI and data screens using the USB link. Only issue is unlike the H100 there are only two PWM connections due to that I had to spend few bucks on splitters for push/pull config. However, the reason I went with them is the mounting setup, the pump is smaller being a circle shape verse square and much more secure to the CPU using the locking mechanism they used and the lines are much better quality and feel. With rebate I spent around 15 dollars more than the H100, feelings are that was worth due to build differences, but bummed that my case now not so clean, more modder style now

Wow, haven't seen anyone here with a TT watercooling system for a long time. Glad it works for you. Most of us shun TT like the devil due to it's past issues. Maybe this OEM unit made for Thermaltake is like the Corsair units and they are a decent AIO level watercooler.

This is new model they released around two months ago I believe. This is not that front panel one that using three slots in front of case that one does have major issues recorded and bad reviews.

I was waiting for reviews and based on what I have read users were liking the quality. I concur it seems well built, quiet and performs very well. They took the H100 design and just tweaked things.

I remember something about it at CES early this year. The old saying was, "Friends don't let friends buy Thermaltake". They still have a lot of WC junk, but I have a decent TT air HS on my wife's PC and they have a few cases, and I read some nice PSUs once and a while. They try, maybe the engineers and users are getting the bean counters to listen.

Thermaltake has never done any wrong by me. Currently I'm eiger to get my hands on a TT Extreme Water2.0, My FX-8150 stock CPU fun is driving me nuts with the noise when it kicks into high rpm.

TT didn't make it. It's remarketed stuff. You like TT, okay. Nice to see you here.

Galgotha said:

Just a heads up for those looking at the Thermaltake 2.0 Extreme that have a Corsair 500R. The Radiator is 10.3mm thicker than the H100. Didn't think that would be much of an issue, but it won't fit above the MB interferes with CPU power line, just wont bend that much and the heat sinks that are at least 1 1/2 inches tall.

Had put mine in the top tray but due to height I can't use the top cover, so I just have rad out in open, just going do push/pull setup since it out there now kind of like a hood scoop show the power


As for performance the Thermal take is great I have my set on custom curve starting at 50C to max fan at 70C. With my 3570K at 4.2Ghz at stock volts using AIDA64 for 20Min temps were between 52-56C between cores. This was in Push only config as I am waiting on my pull fans to arrive. Noise level was very low as it was only hitting the middle of my fan speed curve. Pushing to extreme the temps dropped to 48-50 under 100% load carried over few mins.

At stock clocks that temp was never even hitting 50C and kept the system silent.

I give Thermaltake for the fan control UI and data screens using the USB link. Only issue is unlike the H100 there are only two PWM connections due to that I had to spend few bucks on splitters for push/pull config. However, the reason I went with them is the mounting setup, the pump is smaller being a circle shape verse square and much more secure to the CPU using the locking mechanism they used and the lines are much better quality and feel. With rebate I spent around 15 dollars more than the H100, feelings are that was worth due to build differences, but bummed that my case now not so clean, more modder style now

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Hi thank you so much for this information, I am about to order my new computer and with that a Thermaltake water 2.0 extreme with the Corsair 500R.

This is a big bummer for me. I want to install this cooler with a closed case. (so leaving no mesh of it) So you are saying it is not possible at all with this cooler? The top mesh wont close if the radiator is placed there? I seriously dont want to get the H100 since there is that noise rattle problem and since I live in europe i dont want to sent my H100 to corsair for RMA. It cost to much time and money.

The Motherboard im gonna use is http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#ov would it fit with this motherboard maybe?

Do you have any suggestions of what i can do? Different case? different cooling? suugestions? I so liked the option with the 500r to put the radiator with 2x 120mm fans in the top of the case. Will the 600t be a better fit with this cooler?

so many questions, im sorry..but thanks very much!

Omegatron

The Thermaltake Radiator is to thick for the mesh cover to fit if you put the radiator in the top tray.

My issue with fitting inside the case was strictly due to the top heat sink on the MSI board being too tall that the radiator and the heatsink would not work together. Your board does not have a top heatsink on the top of the board. You may be able to fit Radiator in the case with the MB and have fans in pull config sitting in top tray under mesh cover.

Otherwise if you really like the 500R I would say move to the double thick 120mm rads in back exhaust setup.

I have not had experience with 600t looking at pictures online it seems to have more space above the MB mounting points than the 500R.

Hey Galgotha thank you very much for responding. Hopefully the heatsink not being there on my motherboard will fit the radiator in the case. though if you look at my MB, do you thing the red circled i/o thingie wil be a problem for the radiator or will it be next to it:



Assuming I can fit the radiator in the case and i put the 2x 120mm fans in the top mesh compartment im wondering the following. If i understood your previous post correctly you are saying to have the airflow like this.



If i would do it like the picture above, will the radiator get enough cooling to keep the temperatures low?

Also, i whas thinking about another option but then again im not a professional in building systems i only do it once per few years when i need a new comp.
If i use the top 2x 120mm fans as an intake, will the 1x 120mm exaust fan be enough for getting the hot air out of the case? To explain better, if i do it like this picture:



Would this work? Would my system cool better or do i create other problems.

Sidenote: the computer in the picture i just took from the internet. I havent got my system yet.

I dont know if this is gonna help a bit but this is what i want to put into my comp:

motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K
memory: Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1600C9 (2x 4gb)
graphic card: 1x ati 7970
SSD: 1x
HDD: 1x
DVD-rom drive: 1x
PSU: Antec TPQ-850 (taking this one from my old systems its not yet 1 yrs old).
CPU cooler: Thermaltake Water 2.0 extreme
Case: Corsair 500R

Now my intention is not to do overclocking (i dont even know how to lol) I want a nice watercooler because it looks clean and i have the 240mm slot in the top to put in a nice cooling system. I know because of this i can also use a aircooler for a psu (but i dont want a big psu cooler anymore since i had the Scythe Mugen 2).

What i do want in the future is to put in an extra 7970 for crossfire but only when those babies are gonna be drop in price (so probably when better cards come out).

thank you very much

Pic 1. Pic 2 would overide the Rad fans, reducing airflow into the case.

All depends on the rads really, but P1 is much more common.

In a perfect world you want the slightly cooer air through the rad. If your system is underraded, then that can be an issue, but most don't have an issue.

If you like P2, you have to reverse a LOT of fans to make it work.

And please, heat does not rise, it's a non-issue in a forced air situation like a case. Physics wins.

Thank you for your this information conumdrum.

So you say Pic 1 is the best to go. Now to be perfectly clear. there is no push/pull configuration with the radiator. the radiator only has the 2x 120mm fans to pull the air out of the case. I want to be sure we talk about the same airflow setup . But is this a good setup or will an airflow like pic 1. make the use of the watercooler useless (in other words, will it still perform better then a 30 euros aircooler??)

oh and btw...

Conumdrum said:

And please, heat does not rise, it's a non-issue in a forced air situation like a case. Physics wins.

Click to expand...

i did not know this, thanks!

That cooler is better than a 30EU cooler. And will work fine in P1. No worries.

OK thank you very much for all the information.

since the thermaltake water 2.0 extreme is not the best choice for the corsair 500r (i wont know if there is room for the radiator and i can only find ot when im building my system) I emailed the webshop where i want to buy all my parts from to see if the know about the rattle pump noise in the Corsair H100 series and if they can tell me that the batch they have in stock is the fixed batch.

Maybe if i order the H100 and it works flawless i dont have to worry about anything (fitting in the Corsair 500R). If i do get a faulty H100 then I want to return it and order the Water 2.0 extreme (though its 40 euros more expensive).

or just get a aircooler and no worries at all (but i dont want to )

There was issues with early H100s, H50, H60, H70, H80. Remember they are built at a factory across the ocean at LOW cost and not great oversite by the OEM builders. In this case it's Thermaltake. Corsair does the same with thier stuff. As does Apple. Quality depends on how much they pay the workers and the poor USA sap that lives in China and has to deal with the factory.

Your return rate with TT should be higher due to the horrendous watercooling crap they have put out for years. But management can make big changes fast. I bet TT and thier cheap crap has been overtaken by Corsiar, Asustek, even Intel cheapo WC systems. They had to do something, so they went to the same factory as Corsair etc and said 'make me 10,000 slighly diff ones'.

Ready made watercooling really did well when the introduced the H100. We have watched it grow from the H50 to the H100. Physics matters here. Only the H100 will give you better than any top air cooler by a bit. A bit, 2-5C.

A bit 2-5C. If your not going to max your CPU overclock and have a good case that can hold a top 90% air cooler, why go water?

It's not magic temp-wise, we go watercooling for QUIET RIGS and happy SLI GPU temps.

Your rig is soooo normal, I se no reason to fret over this magic WC thing. It's still Physics, can't cheat it. A TT or H100 still will give you good temps and not a giant heatsink on the Mobo. You start going for overclocks and think you can reach the moon overclocks because you watercool?

Dig a ditch, you wasted your money.

So you buy a $300 WC custom setup. Your CPU is at 53C idle. You run IBT to burn your CPU, your at 75C temps beause of your crazy magic overclock. Ack. Double the radiator, add 3-6 more fans, and buy that $400 case for mora raddage. You drop your DT by 1/2. I'll say 5C lower. Now your at 70C. $500 or more later, man it's beauty rig. Not much help. It's ambient cooling. I'm trying to say watercooling can;t make magic. But, darnit it's a hobby, I love this stuff.

Water cooling isn't magic, but it has it's purposes. A TT or an H100 has no purpose except cool the CPU to a BIT better temps with a higher failure rate (many due to stupidity), and expect the magic 'it's all in an 'app' mentality'. You just have to have the want to UNDERSTAND.

You don't read 20 posts in the WC forum before you decide to even reply, then your a Iphone get it now I need to get done folks. It's a hobby. Remember hobbies? WC might NOT be for you.

I just built a REALLY nice rig (Build log coming) And if you READ READ the stickies, by now you have seen my rigs. If not, you haven't begun to understand watercooling and the easy science behind the curtain dude. You have NO clue.

It's my media PC and a STRONG gaming PC. It has no, nada, not one water drop on it.

read it again, rethink.........................

This should be a sticky.

Omegatron the PS/2 hookup was not an issue its not close to the radiator.

Corsiar is also changing pump designs the they are moving to round pumps design and mounting plates like TT and other companies are using. I am wondering if they pump may be the same manufucuter for all just branded different as similar as they are looking.

I have mine setup like your first diagram for air flow except, like Conundrum stated I went for a positive airflow process so upgraded the rear fan to 140MM 90CFM Xigmatex PWM fan and flipped it pointing in as well as add 120MM bottom fan next to my PSU and added a XIGMATEK CCA-EMFCB-U01 4 in 3 HDD Cage with 90CFM PWM Xigmatek 120MM fan.

My entire objective was to have as quiet of a rig why I chose AoO cooler and lots of fans at low speed moving air verses fewer fans moving air at higher RPM as this rig is in my bedroom where my wife sleeps while I play some nights.

Also to note adding push/pull fan setup dropped my stress test temps only around 2-3C on an already low 58-60C test in a 23C room with just single fans. If you setup a pull setup with fans above the radiator with no OC or very moderate one like I have of 4.2Ghz on stock voltage you should be fine. I did not see temperature increase until I increased voltage to get a stable higher Ghz OC.

Here you can see how close my fans which are 25MM thick are to my heatsink.


Here you see my fans setup.


Airflow currently setup like so. But I may swap the rear fan to pull out to see if that adjust temps or improves flow design I may be causing unneeded turbulance but temps when playing have been excellent around 43-48C and GPU of 56-60C playing GW2 on Ultra settings and having Supersampling/Ultra Shadows on.