Computer freezes when running Prime95

[trents]

I would turn off Coo N Quiet, Turbo, C1E and C6 in bios. I would then go into Windows Control Panel Power Options and configure it to High Performance. I would also manually configure your memory timings to coincide with the XMP-1600 column in the SPD tab of CPU-z, especially put your CR from 1T to 2T. I would also give the memory voltage a small bump from 1.5 to 1.525 or 1.55 and give the CPUNB a small bump over stockm, maybe to 1.225.

 

[trents]

I am changing the voltage in the smallest intervals possible. Is there a max recommended voltage for the 6100?

Safe voltage increases are mostly related to temperatures. As long as your core voltages don't get insane (over 1.5v) I think you are safe as long as your core temps don't cross 60c and the CPU temps remain under 70c. It is always a good policy to increase voltatages in small increments and monitor temps with every change as you are doing.

 

[Creating Chunks]

OK cool thanks!

This is what I have,

CoolnQuiet, Turbo, C1E, and C6 were already set as disabled in BIOS.
I set the memory timings exactly like the XMP value.
I lowered my memory voltage down to 1.55v
I also lowered my CPUNB voltage down to 1.23v

I ran Prime95 for 5 minutes, no freezes that time, ill be able to run it longer later on tonight.

 

[Creating Chunks]

Running prime95 while I'm at the bar, lets go caps lol

 

[Creating Chunks]

OK so got back home. According to the times on Prime95, the computer froze about 30 minutes after the stress test started.

 

[trents]

Do you get error messages in any of the Prime95 worker windows or evidence that one of the cores dropped out. In my experience you either get that or BSOD, not a lockup when the CPU or memory overclock is unstable. This sounds more like a video issue to me. Is you GPU overclocked? Did you overclock the chipset NB (not asking about the CPUNB) or the PCIe bus?

 

[Creating Chunks]

the chipset NB and the PCIe bus has been left at normal, I have overclocked the GPU. Doesnt lock up in games though, just freezes the computer during testing. Still might cause it?

 

[trents]

Could be either a chipset or video driver issue. Make sure you have the latest drivers for both.

 

[Creating Chunks]

Video drivers were already latest. I updated the chipset drivers and set Vcore to 1.38v. Ran Prime95 for 2 hours. No freeze ups but max temps were 70ºC for the CPU and 60ºC for the cores.

 

[trents]

70c for CPU temp is at the cusp of being high enough to damage the CPU. Seems like you found the problem, though, that being the CPU voltage was too low. Usually I get BSOD or a core drops out instead of lock up when the CPU voltage is too low. I'm surprised that you are getting temps that high on that CPU with that huge honking HSF on only 1.38 core voltage. You also have a great case that, if you have all the fan holes occupied with fans, should give you great ventilation. Speaking of that, how many fans do you have in the case and how are they oriented with regard to direction of air flow?

I'm also wondering if you would benefit from doing the thermal paste over again. Too much, too little or improper application method of the thermal paste can have significant impact on temps. What method did you use to apply the thermal paste (TIM)?

 

[Creating Chunks]

I have all the holes filled with fans. Back fan is intake, side and top fans are exhaust. I dont have any fans on the front. Not sure if i can mount any there. All of them are on the fastest setting, plus i have the CPU cooler fans pulling from the back fan.

the instructions on the HSF said to apply a 3mm dot of thermal paste. I dunno how to measure that so i just put some on there to ensure it would cover the whole thing.

 

[trents]

Your present ventilation if problematic and could be the reason for your high temps. Which way is the cooler's own fan exhauting? Toward the top or toward the back? I'll get back to you, wife and I are going out to eat.

 

[Creating Chunks]

Sounds good, thanks trents

 

[Mandrake4565]

Chuncks what I think you should do and what I think Trents is going to say is change the rear fan to exhaust and have the heatsink either push the air towards the rear fan or if it's possible with that heatsink turn it and have it push the air towards the top fans. Usually the best method of cooling a case is to draw cool air from the front and exhaist ot from the rear. Also when I was having case temp issues I had it in a desk cubby that I thought provided enough ventilation, I was wrong. So I'm also wondering where you have the case.

 

[trents]

I have owned two Antec 300 cases. One of the best budget cases out there. It is easy to install two 120mm fans in the front. You must remove the plastic front face ("bezel") and underneath it are two hinged 120mm fan cages. Take the bezel off and you will see what I mean. You want two quiet fans in the front pushing air into the case ("intake") and you want the fans in the top and rear to be exhaust fans, i.e. pulling air out of the case. That way the overall air flow is from front low to rear high. This is the most effective way to remove warm air from the interior of the case and keep both the CPU HSF supplied with cool air as well as moving air across the motherboard components. A side fan (intake) is optional and I'm not sure if it helps or hurts the overall air flow. If you want a suggestion for a reasonably good quality but quiet and inexpensive fan, go with the Yate Loon low speed. You can get them for under $5 apiece if you look around on the internet or ebay.

 

[Creating Chunks]

Ok thanks, I'll check it out. The computer wont be under any crazy stress any time soon and I have an FX-8120 on the way, im going to see what I can get that to on air. Im looking to get it at least 4.4GHz as well.

 

[Creating Chunks]

The case sits adequately out in the open. I made sure of that!

 

[trents]

Here's a good pic.

 

[Creating Chunks]

That's awesome and very helpful! thanks!

 

[trents]

I might also suggest redoing the TIM. Get some good TIM: Arctic Silver 5, Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX4 are all very good thermal pastes and very reasonably priced. You can pick up a 3gm tube of AS5 for around $5. A good TIM can shave off several degrees of temp over the no name white stuff.

Clean the CPU face and the heatsink bottom well to remove the old paste. Remove most of it with a dry coffee filter or two and then finish with a coffee filter moistened with some rubbing alcohol. Coffee filters are perfect because they have a smooth texture and don't leave behind insulating lint or fibers like paper towels, kleenex or soft cloth.

Then squeeze a small blob of paste onto the center of the CPU face. The blob should be bigger than a BB but smaller than a pea. Don't try to spread it. Just lower the heat sink down onto the CPU twist back and forth a little and then clamp it down. The clamping pressure will spread the paste without introducing air bubbles.