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Custom Home Theater Cabinet Cooling, Help

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Chriscc123

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Location
Calabasas CA
I am attempting to cool my parents Home Theater Cabinet, as it can get up to 50c+ with normal use, and sometimes when everything is running gets even hotter as it does not have any ventilation at all. They close the cabinet as the dog and people run into it and it has broken before. (has already damaged some things and had to be replaced) this is relevant >:facepalm:
Anyhow, what I plan to to is cut a hole in the back (and/or side?) for a 120mm or 200mm fan. I'm on the wall here, what should I do? Should I go for 2 fans, one on the tv side to intake and one on the back for exhaust? and where? The tv is a new flat screen and puts out barely any heat. I have never really done any custom cooling jobs, so I'm completely lost here. Oh and fyi, I was not the one who did the wiring job, although they will let me mod it as much as I want. :thup:

This is whats on my list so far:

Sunbeam PL-RS-PCI Rheosmart PCI 20W Fan Controller
Item #: N82E16811995073

nMEDIAPC HTPC 1080iP Typical 60W, Maxiaum 85W Mini ITX DC to ATX Integrated Power Module with DC Adaptor
Item #: N82E16817129006

COOLER MASTER Megaflow 200 R4-LUS-07AR-GP 200mm Red LED Case Fan
or
Scythe SY1225SL12L 120mm "Slipstream" Case Fan
 

Attachments

  • HomeTheater2.jpg
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Being that I'm quite impressed with the DeepCool fans I just purchased, I have to recommend those. Good airflow, very very silent, leaving no need for a controller. They do come with a voltage drop adapter if you should find a need, though I doubt you will.
HERE
Another note about that fan, it requires a round hole, so there's no tricky cuts you need to perform while reaching into the back of the cabinet. You might even be able to find a hole saw to fit it at your fave hardware store.

A better fan power supply is HERE, wall plug adapter with a 4 pin molex computer adapter already installed on it...the fan above has a 4 pin molex adapter included.

And finally, to keep the dustbunnies out, HERE is a washable fan filter that has good reviews on not slowing your fan's airflow so much. Entertainment centers tend to get really nasty in behind them.

I'd suggest trying one fan for now, down low in the component side blowing air into the cabinet. The door doesn't look like it seals that tight, so the fan will still be able to breathe.
Maybe two fans blowing inward if it really gets that hot in there (like over 80°, use a thermometer?).
 
Being that I'm quite impressed with the DeepCool fans I just purchased, I have to recommend those. Good airflow, very very silent, leaving no need for a controller. They do come with a voltage drop adapter if you should find a need, though I doubt you will.
HERE
Another note about that fan, it requires a round hole, so there's no tricky cuts you need to perform while reaching into the back of the cabinet. You might even be able to find a hole saw to fit it at your fave hardware store.

A better fan power supply is HERE, wall plug adapter with a 4 pin molex computer adapter already installed on it...the fan above has a 4 pin molex adapter included.

And finally, to keep the dustbunnies out, HERE is a washable fan filter that has good reviews on not slowing your fan's airflow so much. Entertainment centers tend to get really nasty in behind them.

I'd suggest trying one fan for now, down low in the component side blowing air into the cabinet. The door doesn't look like it seals that tight, so the fan will still be able to breathe.
Maybe two fans blowing inward if it really gets that hot in there (like over 80°, use a thermometer?).

Just to make sure, by component you mean the back? Also there is about a 4mm gap on every side of the door, it seals very tightly, I just measured it, with everything "off" it was 33°, will measure working temps in the morning. Also can you re-post a link for the pwr supply? It only links to the fan again. :p

Edit: Just checked the temps, with basic things on; it's a stable 64° in the bottom, its hovers around 45° on the top.
 
Last edited:
4mm gap but squared with ohh a good 4 linear feet of door lip all the way around is enough air flow.

Blowing in low from the back with a filter is your best bet for dust control.

It's 64C? at the bottom due to the closeness of the radiant heat from the receiver.

Ohh how much space between the glass shelf and the door? There is a gap I guess from the inset of the glass and at least an inch at the back of the glass?

Fixing the wires:

Get a peice of cardbaord that fits the back, paint it black. Use velcro to mount the cardboard, squishing the wires between the cardboard and back of the cabinet. Poof, gone.

Think the PSU link is wrong, I found this one:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=22607
 
4mm gap but squared with ohh a good 4 linear feet of door lip all the way around is enough air flow.

Blowing in low from the back with a filter is your best bet for dust control.

It's 64C? at the bottom due to the closeness of the radiant heat from the receiver.

Ohh how much space between the glass shelf and the door? There is a gap I guess from the inset of the glass and at least an inch at the back of the glass?

Fixing the wires:

Get a peice of cardbaord that fits the back, paint it black. Use velcro to mount the cardboard, squishing the wires between the cardboard and back of the cabinet. Poof, gone.

Think the PSU link is wrong, I found this one:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=22607

In the back there is about a 10mm gap, in the front there is about a 5mm gap... its like it was made to be an oven...

Edit: Sides are around 3mm.
 
I'd simply run two fans at the back, one blowing air in and one exhausting air out the back. That would take care of things no worries.
 
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