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door gasket?

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sephiroth_749

Top ranking SOLDIER officer
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Location
Park Hills, Missouri
im going to be putting a new window a case soon and i was wondering exactly that gasket was around the window. Ive tried googling door gaskets but i dont really find anything that looks like it. I would also like to know where to get some.
 
ya then fold the flap inwards directly locking it in place against the inside wall. I used the pacman shaped clear window upside down so the blowhole isn't piped to the cpu but a 80mm fan blows right on the vid card. Drill a hole, use a fine blade on a jigsaw, then a pink dremel grinding wheel, or whatever u got, to smooth the inside edge. It can be seen I guess on the profile from the outside.

a clear window is the only way to go

I painted everything but the 1" of the top of the plate that has the standoffs that holds the mobo, I wish I had; gold.

Now i've got fans everywhere and I have turn knobs, and the light is usefull for gamng in the dark, and I wabnt a vid card cooler I want a 6 point toggle flip 3.5" for gaming.

http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Mer...=PROD&Product_Code=2419CMOD&Category_Code=130

Can I get an all in one button, cause cooling is an all for games, or none for not situation, and I will have 6 fans after the vid cooler, incl the cpu cooler, besides my lights, and the psu fans, which deal with themselves, and the small MCH fan, which is always on ? This is another Q, and I don't even know if I can disconnect the Zalman cpu cooler from the mobo cpu_fan connector, for starters.
 
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im mean like the do put glue or anything in the little slits to hold the plexiglass in the gasket and then put glue in the other slit to hold the rest of it to the case or anything like that
 
Most molding come with a tiny string of adhesive inside. I'd recommend NO to H moulding (double gasket). It is so extremely difficult to wrangle and has very little tolerance for error.

Personally, I'd recommend C molding from your local auto store (typically costs about $1/foot) to cover your metal edge, then flush mounting the window.

To flush mount the window, you can 1) carefully drill holes and use rivets or screws'n'nuts 2) use double stick mouting tape.
 
Big negative on any stick-um.

I got this style, but mine is clear, the only way to go:
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Mer...OD&Product_Code=3415WIND&Category_Code=0330.2

If you buy their kits the gasket I comes with the window. There is no problem with it, except it takes time. I worked to get the cut-out exact, and being off by a mm on any point on the profile will affect the overall length of the trim strip to cut. It is work to get the window in and out with the gasket in place, and start with the strip cut too long. I gave away my first (ONLY because it was blue, there was .200" filled in with a dab of - actually nothing. I put the seam at the bottom - not on a curve). Anyways you can't even see a seam on my (no.2) strip now. Anyways yes you can wrangle it this way or that. You could fill a gap with black silicone caulking. I was very picky about grinding the edge with a pink dremel grinding wheel. I found the original instructions that came with the product had me cut the strip a little short - if I can blame the instructions. Anyways what they do is provide a steel washer. Maybe the washer is the problem due to practical limitations. You put the plastic on the panel, and put a pencil in the center of the washer and trace around the profile. Washers are sold by Dia of outside circle & Dia of inside circle. So whatever is half the difference is the offset, and that is [exactly?] where you need to cut it out. A Std. trick. But the window can be tight. I mean like this isn't gonna FIT!!! You may need to grind some more, and some more. This is why you don't cut the strip too short at the beginning. I guess you could make the cut-out a little big at the beginning. I don't know if it could hurt. You mau ask them. Maybe cut on the outside of the line. Its a modern wonder of science! But the product is fine (i mean mine is awesome now) , and the slightest change affects the length of the strip - think about it, and I mean the window won't fit!!. You'll know because the panel will be warping. Mine is flat as a board now and nothing is going anywhere - it takes a bit of patience, and if you have already done a paint job, you may be washing your hands. Mine was white on gold crackle -try patching that! You can see how much gap you have all around by putting the panel into the cut-out without the trim. You could grind with a sand-paper rubber wheel on a drill, maybe buy a single, or just put the single dremel wheel from the dremel accesory display case in a drill - no prob. Not a time for a file though, and unless you're a master with a jigsaw...
 
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so is there anywhere to read inscructions on this i read the skicky but that didnt help much because i aready know how to do the cutting part
 
If you really really want to with H molding, then please 1) measure exactly and recheck it 5 times, and always leave a fraction more to grind away 2) Make yourself comfortable cause you are going to be at it for hours 3) Please wear eye protection.

Can't really see anything wrong with decent double stick tape mount tape, it'd be stronger than the plastic.

As you can see by my sig, I prefer hard mounting, but to each their own.
 
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