• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Dtek WhiteWater just arrived!

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
Has anyone had a drop like this on a block other than something like the Innovatek? Something like a TC-4 or maze block or other? Not to cut down your new temps which are very nice but aren't the Innovatek blocks not really that good to begin with?
 
I've been tempted by the WW, but I'm bent on holding out for a Cascade. It'll be my first H20 setup, and having a custom block at the heart of it is worth the wait. Cathar put alot of thought into to these things.
 
wannaoc said:
Has anyone had a drop like this on a block other than something like the Innovatek? Something like a TC-4 or maze block or other? Not to cut down your new temps which are very nice but aren't the Innovatek blocks not really that good to begin with?

yeah i was about to ask that. anyone gone from a maze3 to WW block? what temp difference?
im thinking about de-doing all my case/watercooling...
 
wannaoc said:
Has anyone had a drop like this on a block other than something like the Innovatek? Something like a TC-4 or maze block or other? Not to cut down your new temps which are very nice but aren't the Innovatek blocks not really that good to begin with?
Yes yes and yes. The WW will beat the TC-4, Maze 3, Swiftech etc etc by 4-6C. I have owned almost every commercial block under the sun and NEVER experienced a difference like I did when I first got my WW Last October or November. Truely an incredible Block.
 
The reason I got the Innovatek block was because I was too timid to use the four bolt method and it attaches with the six lugs on the socket. It did it's job, just not to my liking. :) I however have created a problem. When installing my new waterblock, I let my screwdriver slip off the back of the case and gouge a hole in teh motherboard around one of the holes. I seem to have killed the sound on the board by doing so and it seems a tad unstable, not from heat or something that you usually think of, it's just that it decides to shut off and it does, or it will kick me offline, and it will not run windowsXP no matter what I do. I have had to revert back to windows ME because it's not as picky.

As far as the way it runs, it runs internet fine, seeing as how I'm here. hehe It runs prime95 fine, it runs memtest fine, it just at different times decides to do things out of the ordinary. I can overclock and run the same voltages as before, it just seems quirky.

I have reset the block thinking that might be it but I really believe the gash in the mobo is the culprit. Sometimes I even have to reset the cmos while holding the power button and turning on the power to the psu a couple times to get it to boot. It's like living with a ghost.

Oh well, I've ordered a new board, this time, no screwdrivers used and I will install the block with the motherboard out of the case. An expensive lesson learned, but it was a lesson learned nonetheless.

Don't install waterblocks with the mobo in the case!!!! If you do, don't use screwdrivers to hold the bolts in place!!! :D
 
is there any impingement on the poly versioon?

i ask because it looks like theres only 2 pieces( the top and BP)
 
pokpok said:
is there any impingement on the poly versioon?

i ask because it looks like theres only 2 pieces( the top and BP)
Yes, the nozzle has been incorporated into the top plate.
 
I still want to see some real numbers from the new block, anyone yet?

do numbers even matter at this point anymore? the block has been out for a long time. hundreds have attested that the WW outperforms other blocks by a lot. its pretty much old news that the WW is better then other commercial blocks by around 5C. and i dont see why you question the hype of how good it is when its been backed up by so many people for a very long time. back when it came out it was the best. today its still one of the best. Cathar himself in his ocau forum post a/b the whitewater said he saw a 5C improvement. and if you want to see some numbers then maybe use the search key and look at some post when it originally came out.
 
I don't know about others, but one thing that seeing numbers from more individual users will do is prove that DTek did a good job with their WW.
We all KNOW hpow good a job Cathar did- making sure that DTek is taking care of the rep is another question ;)
(Although the reports are looking good so far.....)
But that's just me:)
 
Last edited:
Miralcos:
You more than likely cut a trace as you figured by now. What you need to do now is jump it if that is what happened. First find the break in the circuit, than remove some of the soldermask before and after it with an Xacto. I'd put a little flux, (no-clean) there and solder a bridge. You could also use that rear window defogger repair stuff too to jump it. It's almost the same thing as liquid trace. Thats why alot of people use it to close the bridges on AMDs. Also look to see if you knocked off one of the SMT parts near the impact area. That will be a little trickier, but if you can solder it'll be no sweat once you find it's value.
 
If he cut through traces on the mobo, ordering a new one is the right choice for him... Repairing cut traces around the ps section on an amplifier, cd player or other home audio equipment might be a job that can be done at home.

Jumping cut traces by the cpu socket on a motherboard is another story entirely. The traces are too small and close together to be bridged by liquid-trace material, and even if they could be, the resistance of such a connection would be too high for the repair to be reliable. That's a job that requires optical magnification, dental picks, a needle-tipped solder station, tiny strands of wire, flux, a steady hand, and lots of patience.

I know you meant well, but that's a job that's beyond the scope of many experienced technicians, let alone the average do-it-yourselfer. Bridge a couple of connections together by accident, apply power, and a fellow might have to purchase a new cpu and ram as well as a new motherboard...
 
sn_85 I want numbers because before I go out and spend 75.00 on a new block I want to see the differences, 2 - 3 degrees under my current block is not worth it to me, not to mention I would have to rush buying a new motherboard because I don't have mounting holes. My point is: just like any computer component as soon as one is top dog another may come out better, such as the cascade. Not everyone can rush out and spend 75.00 every time a new block comes out.
 
wannaoc, i understand your concern that you want a product that lives up to its performance for the $75 u dish out. i work at the movies and earn minimum wage and i had to pay for my summer school classes and books, so i had the same concern. however i read on on a lot of past posts to see if the WW is really that good and just based on what everyone says, i think its well worth the $25 extra u spend. u could spend another $25 over the whitewater to get casecade but you'd be looking at 2C. maybe if your temp sensor sucks u wouldnt see any difference. the WhiteWater is still in elite class. and i from what i've seen and read the DTeK whitewater wont be all that different from the original whitewater. except aluminum/poly top and its not so mirror finish lapping. but the point of lapping is to get it flat not mirror like so i dont think anything performance decrease will occur b/c of the base.
 
wannaoc said:
sn_85 I want numbers because before I go out and spend 75.00 on a new block I want to see the differences, 2 - 3 degrees under my current block is not worth it to me, not to mention I would have to rush buying a new motherboard because I don't have mounting holes. My point is: just like any computer component as soon as one is top dog another may come out better, such as the cascade. Not everyone can rush out and spend 75.00 every time a new block comes out.
You will have a 4-6C drop in temps from your Maze 3, that is a certainty. Depending on your MOBOS's sensor, it may not show but it will be there. When I went through 7 blocks a while back, I had an 8K3A which read the on die reading and I got good readings and the WW spanked all by and average of 5C.
 
Cathar said:


AS3 cures fairly quickly in the first two hours or so to give around a 0.5-1C drop from a fresh install. After that it may give an extra 1C or so after 2-4 days, but I find this is dependent upon how well the block is mounted (how even the pressure is against the CPU), with more even mounts yielding the benefit, while lousy mounts not seeing any real gain as the paste cures.
Very well said.

I love your comments. I can't explain it better.

:cool:
 
Rmonster: Good point. I do that sort of thing every day for a living. I forgot that most people don't have that luxury I suppose. My mind tends to get stuck in troubleshooting mode. No harm though.
 
Hey cypher, no harm done at all... As for getting stuck in troubleshooting mode, it might have happened a time or two to me as well ;)

(edit: ) Btw cool avatar, I've been holding out for something slick like that myself :D
 
Last edited:
Hehe, lemme make this quick, I'm limping along with my broke mobo. I looked at the area I hit the mobo at with a magnifying glass and I done some good pokin' on that thing LOL. I doubt if I have the patience to even attempt doing something like trying to fix those tiny traces. MAN they are small. My new mobo is on it's way to the house so keep yer fingers crossed I don't have another mishap with this one. Thanks for the help guys. :)
 
Back