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DTek WW lapping complaint
- Thread starter cupidr17
- Start date
- Joined
- May 10, 2003
- Location
- Garland, TX
uhh i heard something about steel whool does that do anything for lapping and i get my 1k grit from autozone kuz i couldnt find it anywhere
wouldnt lapping that WW so much eventually hurt the block kuz i read somewhere on cathars site not to lap with less than 800grit because its super thin or is that cascade only?
wouldnt lapping that WW so much eventually hurt the block kuz i read somewhere on cathars site not to lap with less than 800grit because its super thin or is that cascade only?
thats just horrible, I cant beleve d-tek pulls that crap.
Neomoses, I honestly think ther is no way there its .003" deeper in the center. if so thats HORRIBLE! if so, just take it to your machinist and take off .005" but thats still gonna be mighty thin and cutting it close.
Steel wool isnt good for lapping, maybe for making things shiney but not for making things flat, lapping is about FLATNESS not shineyness. people have an obsession for making things shiney, shineyness means nothing.
when I start making waterblocks, if I pull a stunt like this, be sure to smack me up a little bit
Jon
Neomoses, I honestly think ther is no way there its .003" deeper in the center. if so thats HORRIBLE! if so, just take it to your machinist and take off .005" but thats still gonna be mighty thin and cutting it close.
Steel wool isnt good for lapping, maybe for making things shiney but not for making things flat, lapping is about FLATNESS not shineyness. people have an obsession for making things shiney, shineyness means nothing.
when I start making waterblocks, if I pull a stunt like this, be sure to smack me up a little bit
Jon
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2003
NeoMoses said:
as long as there is thermal resistance at the cpu/WB interface, I'd say nothing is overkill. of course, us overclockers are a different breed.
Yeah, but you reach a point where furthur lapping will provide a decrease in thermal resistance that is no more than negligible.
Steel wool is no good for lapping. Think flat.
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2003
i told you cuprid17..i told you...
OP
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2003
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
- Thread Starter
- #26
Just went through another 45mins of 400grit lapping, and still havent gotten the dent out. I would have definitely moved over to higher grits if the dent wasnt RIGHT IN THE FREAKIN MIDDLE. Its getting there though.
Yes, I am really upset that dtek would send out a horribly lapped block like this. I think im done lapping for the night. Maybe a little later after my hands are rested, ill go back with a new sheet of 400grit. Im suspecting that the sheet ive been using is a lil worn out now.
Yes, I am really upset that dtek would send out a horribly lapped block like this. I think im done lapping for the night. Maybe a little later after my hands are rested, ill go back with a new sheet of 400grit. Im suspecting that the sheet ive been using is a lil worn out now.
I can say with experience that if there is any roughness, scratches, bumps, dings, high spots, etc. start with the course sandpaper. By course, I mean less than 200 grit preferably wet/dry used wet (with water). If you see the black sandpaper turning a copper shade, then rinse it off with water. Clean sandpaper cuts much faster than clogged.
You can get a scratch out with 180 grit sandpaper much faster than it would take starting with 400 or (god forbid) 600. After 180, I go to 320 then 400 then 600 then maybe 1000.
I don't have the link handy, but when lapping a block, sand only in a straight line and don't turn the block. i.e. set block down, push block in straight line (with consistant pressure), stop, lift block, repeat Make sure the sandpaper is on something hard and flat such as a piece of glass.
Don't use steel wool to try to clean off the base of a block, it took 35 minutes to sand out the scratches from 20 seconds with steel wool.
You can get a scratch out with 180 grit sandpaper much faster than it would take starting with 400 or (god forbid) 600. After 180, I go to 320 then 400 then 600 then maybe 1000.
I don't have the link handy, but when lapping a block, sand only in a straight line and don't turn the block. i.e. set block down, push block in straight line (with consistant pressure), stop, lift block, repeat
Make sure the sandpaper is on something hard and flat such as a piece of glass. Don't use steel wool to try to clean off the base of a block, it took 35 minutes to sand out the scratches from 20 seconds with steel wool.
OP
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2003
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
- Thread Starter
- #28
yea, i know i said i was gonna buy some lower grit sand paper today, but i didnt have time. Probably tommorow for sure. Im just scared that i may be getting too close to the fins of the block. Id hate to ruin a WW. Anyways, back to sanding now, maybe ill get it out tonight. Im gettin kinda close.
OP
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2003
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
- Thread Starter
- #30
warranty on it says if u tamper w/ it its non replacable/refundable. Anyway, I finally got the scratches and dents out using 400grit. Just a little FYI, the sheets im using are 1/4 sheets from www.easypckits.com. Knowing this, how do I know when to switch to a higher grit? i started using the 600 grit and after about 80 passes (rinsing every 20 passes) i dont see much difference. Maybe its my rookie lapping eyes that dont see it. But when should I switch to higher grit?
Also, there are stains on the inside of my WW. I think its from the water that went in while I was rinsing the block all those times. Anyway, I finally found an allen wrench small enough to unscrew the thing (why doesnt dtek include one? I wouldnt care if they raised the price 15 cents to include one) and i noticed greenish/brownish stains. Is this bad? How would I clean it and what could be used to clean inside of the fins?
By the way, I noticed as I was wearing out the 400grit, it became smoother but still able to sand off some metal. It almost felt like 1200grit. Is it possible to wear out a lower grit sandpaper so much that it refines itself to higher grit sandpaper? Is grit described like DPI in a sense that there would be more "grit" per "whatever area"?
Also, there are stains on the inside of my WW. I think its from the water that went in while I was rinsing the block all those times. Anyway, I finally found an allen wrench small enough to unscrew the thing (why doesnt dtek include one? I wouldnt care if they raised the price 15 cents to include one) and i noticed greenish/brownish stains. Is this bad? How would I clean it and what could be used to clean inside of the fins?
By the way, I noticed as I was wearing out the 400grit, it became smoother but still able to sand off some metal. It almost felt like 1200grit. Is it possible to wear out a lower grit sandpaper so much that it refines itself to higher grit sandpaper? Is grit described like DPI in a sense that there would be more "grit" per "whatever area"?
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The stains (I'm guessing) are probably from oxidisation, my block had stains inside it too when I received it; I opened it to check before putting any water in
You can clean it fairly effectively by using some Ketchup! Just stick some in there, then wash it off thoroughly soon after, the acid/vinegar is the trick
You can clean it fairly effectively by using some Ketchup! Just stick some in there, then wash it off thoroughly soon after, the acid/vinegar is the trick
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2003
So the reason people use ketchup to clean their blocks is because it has vinegar in it? Why not just use vinegar?
I bought a WW from Dtek over the summer. I was one of the lucky recipients of the batch with the uneven bases. I contacted Dtek and I sent mine back and got a new one. If you're unhappy with the lapping job, try contacting them, they're very helpful.
