Personally I'm using the following and getting some pretty spectacular results:
USB only 4x Phillips TDA1387 DAC > JLH Hood 1969 (class A) amp > Dayton PS180-8 drivers in small angled car cabinets (meant for 6" drivers, used a jigsaw to make fit) + a used Wharfedale SW150 sub. This easily the best I've heard for computer audio despite these on R2R DAC chips only supporting 16 bit 48khz input. The DAC just shows as a USB PnP Sound Device (90's DAC chips) and is allows Dolby Atmos for Headphones or Windows Sonic for Headphones for virtual surround when using headphones. Running 16 bit 48khz puts next to no load on the CPU and the R2R nature of the DAC gets performance up with DSD content with an oversampling DAC. Really can't go wrong with it.
This isn't an expensive setup by any stretch of the imagination. I just use an RCA splitter to run into my Darkvoice 336SE headphone amp when I want headphones and don't turn on the little Hood amp.
DAC:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/L1387DA...310441?hash=item3f6d658929:g:0igAAOSwPCVYBjic
Amp:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Finishe...fb7f:m:m2K-4HKMWrHjLnSP4mOo6ew&frcectupt=true
Speaker Drivers:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ps180-8-6-1-2-point-source-full-range-neo-driver--295-344
Speaker cabs:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AERPRO-...997772&hash=item440ea7b23b:g:GZ8AAOSwNQ1c2tMs
Sub:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wharfed...m2accc73712:g:FbkAAOSwflBcu83W&frcectupt=true
If there's a component could be easily substituted for another its the sub and there's plenty of inexpensive options though you need something that will take high level input rather than RCA input. Unless you've a pretty high end stereo at home it may very well put that to shame as well despite its diminutive size. I sit my monitor on top of the amp with speakers to each side. The DAC is pretty much unbeatable. It's not up with my better units though you're talking $30 rather than $1,500-2000 with those in my two main sound systems. The little JLH 1969 Hood is a lovely tube sounding amp which simply gets out of the way and produces music, and the Dayton full range drivers a nice and efficient so will work with the smaller wattage of the amp.
That said, if the Hood amp is a bit more than you're looking for you can look at any number of small class D amps such like the S.M.S.L. SA-50 which will be decent though not really in the same league....
Is that the sort of thing you're after? Might be a bit pricey for PC use for many though it's peanuts compared to high end Hi-Fi for your living room and won't be put to shame by even those. Absolutely destroys regular computer audio.
I know my desk is messy as hell (as is my whole office) though it gives you an idea of scale at least. The sub is under the desk.
Cheers mate
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