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GTX 980 Ti Water Block Recommendations

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ProgramGuy

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2015
Location
Romeoville, IL
Hi Guys,

I pulled the trigger and got a Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 980 Ti (first of two) and I'm looking to water cool it. I did some reading and some posts state that you have to watch the different models and that some water blocks don't fit correctly, and this has me a bit worried. I'm curious to know what water blocks everyone is using and is there a big difference between one manufacturer and another.
 
Go to EK and use their configurator to see if there is a block for it.

I went to EK's website and had a look and they have one specifically for this card... :) I also did some more research, however, not on the GTX 980 Ti version but the GTX 980 (click here) and it gave me some interesting information on what to look for. I do like the Swiftech Komono, but according to that article, it didn't fair so well, and the EK did rather well. When it comes to looking at the reviews, how much value should be put on the data that is being given when just changing the TIM can skew some of it? When in comes to gpu water blocks, should one choose reviewed data over looks?
 
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Well we really never see problem temps with GPU waterblocks. They run very cool. Remember what the max is on these GPUs, like 100C, so if you are at 60C vs 50C on another block it really doesn't matter much at all.
 
Well we really never see problem temps with GPU waterblocks. They run very cool. Remember what the max is on these GPUs, like 100C, so if you are at 60C vs 50C on another block it really doesn't matter much at all.

This seems odd to me that you would leave 10C on the table. I have been doing a lot of reading on using TIM and a poor quality and a bad application of it and you could even leave more. It appears that most GPU waterblocks are based on looks then. The Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 980 Ti has a non-reference pcb so this really limits my choices... the Swiftech Komodo is not in the running and so far its only the EK version (EK-FC980 GTX Ti WF3) that I have found so far, so a big thanks for giving me a heads up on EK's configurator page. EK has 2 versions of this one, a see through where you see the fluid and a "solid" one where you can't... so there is a choice... again, based on looks... :)
 
While those GPUs max is 100C, they start losing turbo bins at 73C. If you want it to run at its highest bins, keep it under 73C.

I haven't seen 10C difference between GPU blocks nearly ever... typically it is a couple of C at best. With a properly radded loop though, you won't come close to 70C. Hell, I had a R9 295x2 and an overclocked 5820K with 5x120mm worth of radiator and after hours of gaming, the GPU hit 60C.

There are very few people that SHOULD be chasing after every degree C as it matter for nearly nobody.

how much value should be put on the data that is being given when just changing the TIM can skew some of it?
Dont get lost in the minutia. Get a good paste and apply it right. It really is that simple. You have to expect reviewers to do this right.
 
While those GPUs max is 100C, they start losing turbo bins at 73C. If you want it to run at its highest bins, keep it under 73C.

I didn't know this. I'm curious how warm these get based on their default cooling system.

I haven't seen 10C difference between GPU blocks nearly ever... typically it is a couple of C at best. With a properly radded loop though, you won't come close to 70C. Hell, I had a R9 295x2 and an overclocked 5820K with 5x120mm worth of radiator and after hours of gaming, the GPU hit 60C.

I have visions of running 3 of these cards in SLI, so I'm well radded right now in preparation. The WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) is quite low for this many graphic cards, but she did buy the first one for me for Christmas (I don't get to actually touch it until Christmas morning). I'm going to initially hook it up and run it with the default fans (until the waterblock comes in) so I can get some base information to do a comparison to running it on water.

With all the information that everyone has given me, I feel more confident that I will get the right waterblock.
 
I didn't know this. I'm curious how warm these get based on their default cooling system.
Depends on a lot of things, but, normally, in my system, I don't see 73C... that is with an MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 8G. I would imagine the Windforce (Giga), and ACX2 (EVGA), and Strix (ASUS), wouldn't reach that point. With other cards, if it does reach that point, its nothing a custom fan curve wouldn't fix (yay double negatives).
 
My Strix 980 Ti starts downclocking (~13mhz) between 63c and 65c regardless of BIOS or afterburner settings which is around peak temp at my current overclock, if that helps. If you can keep it below that Kudos for you.

Arctic is also in the watercooling game for the 980 Ti, check out their page, you might find something better for your wallet :)

http://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/products/cooling/vga.html
 
You are likely hitting a different limit to cause the boost bin to drop like that? Last I read, temperatures for that GPU core chip to start throttling is ~73C. Mine doesn't budge below that... neither did the classy, or the other 980Ti's I played with.


EDIT: Sorry, here is a better link on how GPU Boost 2.0 works (yes, your 980ti has it, this article is from 2013): http://www.anandtech.com/show/6760/nvidias-geforce-gtx-titan-part-1/5

I'd imagine you are hitting a combination of things around that temperature. I would guess with stock voltage, power limit all the way up, you get all boost bins.
 
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1448mhz boost, around 20mhz higher i start getting artefacts regardless of temp/with fans at 100% (which is why i wanted to get watercooling as well, lower noise and possibly higher mhz) :(

Afterburner.jpg
 
Not sure what that shows me, but I would imagine you are hitting your top bin for stock voltage and it holds there? Or are you seeing core fluctuations at stock?


Its probably best to take this to PM or start a thread on how to get the most out of you GPU (which I recall a thread on your GPU already??) without throttling. I can see a few posts following is why I say that. :)
 
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You are likely hitting a different limit to cause the boost bin to drop like that? I would guess with stock voltage, power limit all the way up, you get all boost bins.

Not sure what that shows me, but I would imagine you are hitting your top bin for stock voltage and it holds there? Or are you seeing core fluctuations at stock?

Just replying to that, no PM needed i think. Rock steady until it hits 63c-65c regardless of voltage/clock/fan speed, always assumed it was a temp trigger.

http://www.overclockers.com/asus-strix-gtx-980-ti-graphics-card-review/

"During our testing, the actual boost clock held steady at 1417 MHz as long as the GPU temperature stays below 60 °C. Once that temperature threshold was breached, it’ll fall back to 1404 MHz."
 
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