HUZAH WHAAA!! Got an infection in both loops!!!

[SwartHack]

..I would definitely contact koolance to find out their recommendation...

Yikes! That block is EK, the res FrozenQ and the pump some PPC Swifttech job. No Koolance components, only fittings and coolant
Not sure when/if I am going that route yet... (You see Koolance is #1 rated coolant on PPC...)
Har, I can't blame it all on the coolant, but something happened,,,

The GPU loop is all koolance components, minus the EVGA HydroCoppers, which I guess I need to open up as well.

Pics are pre-washing/anything. But I did blow on it and pat it dry quite a bit, and gunk came out of the fins in the process.
My plan is to gently wash everything with soap and water, soft-bristle tooth brush and then see what it looks like.

Here is an interesting blurb in my newest and first Watercool Heatkiller product.

We recommend using demineralised or deionised water (distilled water) as cooling medium. To prevent the build-up of algae, use common citric acid, which reliably prevents the spread of algae.

Gonna ping Jakob from WaterCool...

I grabbed some powder citric acid from the canning section in the grocery store and used that when I flushed out the system!?

demineralised/deionised - Same Thing?

Still wondering if anyone uses a pre-treatment? Either commercial or DIY???

Salud!

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Okay, a few things here from my point of view:

- Check for the FrozenQ reservoir's plugs. If those are aluminum, they can cause serious corrosion on especially copper components.
- Silver, being a noble metal, functions as a very strong cathode and thusly corrodes every less noble metal, especially nickel.
- Both effects should have been prevented by a potent corrossion inhibitor, for example innovatek protect, AT Double protect, or similar. I don't know the Koolance LiQ 705 personally, but given their description, it should have worked, too.
- We waived the recommendation with the citric acid in the last generation of products (I'm surprised that items are still in sale with this...). It does work as a biocide, but we decided that recommending corrossion inhibitors makes more sense in the broarder perspective, especially since the most frequently used ones all also work as a biocide.

Right now, my suggestion would also lean towards washed out plasticizers, or washed out UV-reactant-stuff.

Allthough, I still have some open questions:
- I don't fully understand your loop setup, because you keep talking about two different loops, but then again point ut that they had different stages of discoloration. Are they completely seperated from each other, or do the cross somewhere?
- Did you use the citric acid for flushing BEFORE setting up the system? So, where there possible citric acid residues in the system when you filled it with the Koolance liquid? Or did you flush with citric acid AFTER you found the problems, using it as a cleaning agent?

 

[t1nm4n]

I use a pre-treatment sort of method, if that makes sense. I run dish soap through the loop, drain and run more dish soap through the loop, Distilled water for everything, tap water has not been in my loop, it has been used to wash blocks when I took them apart, and rinsed with distilled, then reassembled. Do that a couple of times and then rinse it real well and refill with just distilled water, I have one of those silver bullets that's in one of the unused plugs on my rad. I've had so many problems with blockages in the blocks cause I didn't do the best rad dance when I assembled it, so longevity I can't really talk about, seems like I was taking it apart and cleaning every 3 months or so when flow rate dropped more than I was comfortable with.

 

[SwartHack]

Okay, a few things here from my point of view:

- Check for the FrozenQ reservoir's plugs. If those are aluminum, they can cause serious corrosion on especially copper components.
- Silver, being a noble metal, functions as a very strong cathode and thusly corrodes every less noble metal, especially nickel.
- Both effects should have been prevented by a potent corrossion inhibitor, for example innovatek protect, AT Double protect, or similar. I don't know the Koolance LiQ 705 personally, but given their description, it should have worked, too.
- We waived the recommendation with the citric acid in the last generation of products (I'm surprised that items are still in sale with this...). It does work as a biocide, but we decided that recommending corrossion inhibitors makes more sense in the broarder perspective, especially since the most frequently used ones all also work as a biocide.

Right now, my suggestion would also lean towards washed out plasticizers, or washed out UV-reactant-stuff.

Allthough, I still have some open questions:
- I don't fully understand your loop setup, because you keep talking about two different loops, but then again point ut that they had different stages of discoloration. Are they completely seperated from each other, or do the cross somewhere?
- Did you use the citric acid for flushing BEFORE setting up the system? So, where there possible citric acid residues in the system when you filled it with the Koolance liquid? Or did you flush with citric acid AFTER you found the problems, using it as a cleaning agent?

Thanks Jakob for the input. Much appreciated to hear a manufacturer's point of view.

I had posed this question previously, but how would one tell if a plug is aluminum?

Good to know on the citric acid, this was noted in my R9 290x heatkiller instructions. New but older stock I presume.

-It is two separate loops. They do not interact in any way. Question was if I possibly mixed/switched plugs?!
-I flushed with citric acid AFTER during flushing out as a cleaning agent.

I run dish soap through the loop

Any particular kind of dish soap?

Cheers!

 

[SwartHack]

Updated Pics: Cleaned up monoblock

So I know everyone has been waiting patiently, with bated breath...on the verge of hyper-ventilation...

Well here is the first go round of cleaning.
I got 8 gallons/$7 of Mt. Olympus distilled water (local).
Which is nice as I can see Mt. Olympus from my house...Also claims to be filtered and ozonated??! which must be good???

I got a brand new soft bristle tooth brush, used Dawn dish soap, and the water...
From the pics it looks like I need a stiffer brush for the fins and another washing.
But I was very anxious not to rub any "coating off" per some of the feedback.

From my eye it appears there is no coating or plating loss?!?
These pics picked up some cool detail if you open them and zoom-in.













On to the dual res next and re-build/remount the monoblock. One consideration I need to address is that I couldn't remove the mono-block without removing the entire mobo, due to the plastic inputs cover. Need to figure out a way around that...

Anyway, just like the Doc at the free-clinic says, "Don't worry where you got it Son, just dont' get it again..."

Salud!

 

[Mr.Scott]

Anyway, just like the Doc at the free-clinic says, "Don't worry where you got it Son, just dont' get it again..."

Salud!

Good as new.
Just took a little more effort than a shot of Penicillin. lol

 

[SwartHack]

Dr's Prescription

Har har Scotty! Just didn't hurt as much!!

So after some deliberation, this is what the Doc prescribed for me...

This pre-mix concentrate, with no UV no nothing, clear!
This also comes with their pre-treatment stuff...
Gonna use as directed here...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/prim...-liquid-pre-mix-8oz-clear.html#Specifications



Went with their tubing as well. Crystal clear, no UV, No BS! Un-plasticized!!!!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/prim...tubing-3-8in-id-x-1-2in-od-crystal-clear.html



So this is for Father Time (sig.) ONLY!
Eventually I want to take it coldish, but that is gonna be awhile.
Any activity on The Bianch will go with homemade...

Luego

 

[t1nm4n]

That CPU block of yours look 10x's better than mine ever did. I had bad plating on mine so I tried using the tooth brush and just went to town with a brass .40 cal bore brush, took a lil plating off, but in the couple of times I've taken it apart since then, it's not gotten any worse, so I figure I got the plating down to were it's all good.

I use Dawn dish soap also, seems to work well enough, but if you run dish soap through your loop after leak testing to dis-infect it, no point really to use pre-mix, it will be as clean as you can get it, also don't blow into your loop to purge water out, unless you know you have a really clean mouth, that's one way to introduce bacteria into your loop.

It all looks pretty good from my monitor, good luck and let us see how it turns out with that purdy Primo Tubing.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Glad to see you got it all cleared out and on your new purchases. Can't wait to see it all put together.

 

[SwartHack]

Some Progress Pics and a Question

So making progress when I can. I am being pretty diligent.


Took apart and hand washing every fitting



Shiny!!!!



Rigged up Lochekey's "Bumpkin Pump" (should it make sooo much noise??!!)
as a way to leak test and pre-treat each component individually first.
I got the primochill pre-treatment stuff in that water...





Kinda interesting taken apart thhis res, and also highlights its "manufacturing defects",
hmmm, thinking about a replacement, but it goes soo good and with the interior blacklight it was gonna be sexy, but function over design here...



So my mono-block is not flowing so great. Starts off good, then peters out...???
When re-building the horizontal slot on the "razor blade" thingy...



should be perpendicular to the cooling fins on final step of cooler assembly, right???



I can't remember and no schematics found for this unit...
I guess I got to open it back up anyway

Salud!

 

[Blaylock]

That's called a jet plane and it should only fit in one direction.

Here's a pic of the supremacy. This one should be pretty similar. Notice the half hole on the insert pin. That needs to line up with your in port.

 

[t1nm4n]

should look like this.

 

[Lochekey]

Yea that pump can be kinda loud. Do you have the flow control fully open? I ended up hanging mine from some string from the top of my bucket to reduce the vibration noise.

 

[SwartHack]

yeah, so like this:

That's called a jet plane and it should only fit in one direction.
Here's a pic of the supremacy. This one should be pretty similar. Notice the half hole on the insert pin. That needs to line up with your in port.​

Where did you get those instructions? ekwb? I pinged Igor at support and was denied schematics of the GA 170X monoblock??!!
Yeah, everything kinda locks/slots right into place, except which orientation of the jet plane slot to cooler fines.

Thanks @t1nm4n for the clarification, that's what I thought seemed most practical.

Well, gonna break off the VRM cooler next and see whats going on in there...

Luego...

 

[Blaylock]

Ya the EKWB site

 

[t1nm4n]

could the slow down be the pump itself, I mean some pumps aren't meant for much resistance, so after awhile the pump starts to slow down to heat build up?

 

[SwartHack]

Greetings! We apologize but we do not give out blown up internal schematics for our products. As for the outflow, can you provide the name of the pump you are using as well the specs of your system and loop? Thank you for the service kit idea! We will forward it to the R&D team. If you need replacement O-rings let us know and we can arrange the purchase of them.

Ok yeah, I am using the "Bumpkin Pump" and a Fouquet bucket....

Yea that pump can be kinda loud. Do you have the flow control fully open? I ended up hanging mine from some string from the top of my bucket to reduce the vibration noise.​

Yep, full open!

could the slow down be the pump itself, I mean some pumps aren't meant for much resistance, so after awhile the pump starts to slow down to heat build up?​

ding ding ding!!!
So took apart the "Bumpkin Pump", rinsed, cleaned, then self primed it real good, banging the Fouquet around.
Let it run real good, and now it cranks and not as loud, but my dog hates it...

Buenas

 

[SwartHack]

Taking back to proj thread - Thanks Everyone

So taking this back to the "Father Time" proj log.
Thanks everyone for your feedback, invaluable as always!!!

Subscribe to "Father Time" (sig), if not already, to see future updates on this "timeless" project
Here is a sneak peak at a pending post...








And also, since germane to this thread discussion ...
I do leave with questions about this coolant I picked up for $3/gal...

Would anyone but Lochekey want to use this??

Why is the RV/boat/etc stuff always pink?
I really like the odorless factor. The blue stuff makes me ill..



And the Freezeproof -100F for "closed boiler systems and solar collectors" ?!?!

Próspero Año Nuevo!!!

 

[Blaylock]

I would. I was actually looking at it the last time I was shopping. -50F is better than -36F right?

 

[Lochekey]

I don't use that stuff because it is still glycol base and has a higher viscosity when it gets cold similar to standard car antifreeze and can get hard to pump. It also has a lower heat capacity than a water/methanol mixture.